Completion of Oliver Cromwell

janos

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
547
Points
298

Location
Sydney
Well, this is the other ship which I am working on (and, as such, the guilty one why I am not proceeding that much with SoS) - but I enjoy it. The ship's hull had been done quite a while ago and now it has to be finished. The state of the ship as I started working on it is shown on the first photo - hull ready up to the main deck, still in the Hahn jig. Frames and nearly everything else is done of Costelo Boxwood (the best quality I have seen to date), wales , aft etc. Ebony (again, beautiful quality). Hull planking as well as deck planks are dowelled with 0.6mm Costelo dowels.
I started with the completion of the inside planking (Swiss Pear). DSC_0249 s.jpg
The hull is still in the Hahn jig. I put a cover onto the false keel which is Ebony and as such, very vulnerable.
DSC_0269.JPG The gun barrels were a bit of disaster. First I made a Boxwood master, heat resistant silicone mould and cast them in Pewter. Well, came out very ugly. The I decided that I will turn the individually from brass - at the second stage with the help of the duplicator which has already been written about. So brass, blackening (did not come out very well), flat black acrylic and then a graphite powder bath. And then come the small details, carriage, trucks, quoion, blocks, rigging - close to 50 pieces per gun.
DSC_0271.JPG
The first trial to check carriage heights. The capstan is made too.
DSC_0317.JPG
The hull had been cut out of the jig. It looks like a ship now.
DSC_0318.JPG
The rough rudder, pintles and gudgeons before blackening.
DSC_0319.JPG
Odds and sodds for future installation.
DSC_0325.JPG
Figure head nearly finished.
DSC_0326.JPG
The rudder is installed.
DSC_0327.JPG
Gunport lid installed. Its material is exactly the same as the hull planking, but the latter had been exposed to light for more than 2 decades, hence the difference in colours.
DSC_0328.JPG
The gratings are also made of Costello with the conventional 'comb' method on the circular saw.
DSC_0335.JPG
The bowsprit is made but not glued in yet. Hahn did not include masting / rigging plans to Oliver, so following Dave's advice I am using Rattlesnake's plans for it.
DSC_0347.JPG
This is the current state before the fore castle's beams and planking will be installed - and everything underneath covered. So better have a few pictures about it!
Janos
 

Uwek

Admin
Staff member
Administrative
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Dec 25, 2017
Messages
9,605
Points
728

Location
Vienna, Austria
She is looking very good - many thanks for sharing also this built with us..... Thumbsup

I have one question:
we can see, that you still did not shorten the frames to the correct length, although you finished more or less the deck with guns etc.
Are they not hindering the access to the deck works?
 

Norway

Blandford
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
1,274
Points
433

Tnx for sharig this logg, i vil follow. I vil ask you a question? earlier you talked abaut casting pewter in heat resistent silicone.
How is this working, i am very interesded, are there any photosesions of how to do it?.
I hawe a lot of old tropys of pewter i kan use for casting stuf like cannons and so on!.
By the way, very nise model so far.:)Thumbsup
 

janos

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
547
Points
298

Location
Sydney
She is looking very good - many thanks for sharing also this built with us..... Thumbsup

I have one question:
we can see, that you still did not shorten the frames to the correct length, although you finished more or less the deck with guns etc.
Are they not hindering the access to the deck works?
Hi Uwe
I just cut the frames close to the jig at that time. They are in the way sometimes, yes, but I did not work out the correct cutting positions then. I will cut them following the 3 main sections (fore castle, midship, quarterdeck) as the respective deck beams are installed (no deck beam in the mid section of course)
Janos
 

janos

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
547
Points
298

Location
Sydney
Tnx for sharig this logg, i vil follow. I vil ask you a question? earlier you talked abaut casting pewter in heat resistent silicone.
How is this working, i am very interesded, are there any photosesions of how to do it?.
I hawe a lot of old tropys of pewter i kan use for casting stuf like cannons and so on!.
By the way, very nise model so far.:)Thumbsup
Hi Norway
I will publish a few photos next time I would cast. The main question (and the problem I still struggle with) is how to make the mouldings. Back then we used to make gipsum molds. We have the heat resistant silicone now which is very flexible. The molds can be made in two parts, the indexing can be a problem then. Or, it can be done in one piece and just ripped off to remove the master or the cast but it is difficult to find the proper wall thickness which allows the removal of the cast but strong enough to keep the shape. This all will make a bit more sense with the photos later.
As mentioned, in this case I was shying away from the casting for the sake of individual turned pieces. I am doing the same for Sovereign as her cannons were brass and the colour of the Pewter is far not correct.
Janos
 

Norway

Blandford
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
1,274
Points
433

[QUOTE = "janos, post: 48053, medlem: 2613"] Hei Norge
Jeg vil publisere noen bilder neste gang jeg ville kaste. Hovedspørsmålet (og problemet jeg fremdeles sliter med) er hvordan man lager lister. Tidligere brukte vi å lage gipsum mugg. Vi har den varmebestandige silikonet som nå er veldig fleksibel. Formen kan gjøres i to deler, indekseringen kan da være et problem. Eller det kan gjøres i ett stykke og bare dratt av for å fjerne mesteren eller støpselet, men det er vanskelig å finne riktig veggtykkelse som gjør det mulig å fjerne støpene, men sterkt nok til å holde formen. Alt dette vil gjøre litt mer fornuftig med bildene senere.
Som nevnt, i dette tilfellet skygget jeg meg bort fra støpingen av hensyn til individuelle vendte stykker. Jeg gjør det samme for Sovereign som hennes kanoner var messing og fargen på tinnet er langt ikke riktig.
Janos [/ QUOTE]

tnx, i vil stil look at yor loogTommel opp
 

Peglegreg

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
1,604
Points
478

Location
Central Coast NSW
G'day Janos my dear friend.
All I can say is this is another exquisite example of your incredible craftsmanship.
I should be use to your work by now, but every model that you show us, I still Google and drill at every photo.
Love it all.
 

janos

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
547
Points
298

Location
Sydney
Progressing with Oliver (SoS is still put aside). The forecastle is now ready for deck planking. I laid the deck beams, carlings, the frame for the grating etc., then cut the protruding frames and attached everything which could collude with the deck planks afterwards. I also laid up the anchor cables as I won't have access to the after the deck planking. The bowsprit is also glued in because of the same reason.
JanosDSC_0351.JPG
DSC_0352.JPG
DSC_0354.JPG
 

Canoe21

Lawrence
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Mar 31, 2017
Messages
803
Points
343

Location
Sutton. Ontario, Canada
Hello Janos
Just catching up on your great Oliver Cromwell build, you sure are making her spiffy, so very much very fine details, you have given me a lot of great ideas to follow in my Oliver Cromwell build. I am very envious on your great looking Figurehead, I will be giving this a carving try in my build this coming year. But for sure I will never to be able to match your great skills at carving but I do want to give it a try.

My Admiral and I pass along out Best Wishes to you and your Family for a Very Merry Christmas and an Even Better and Happier New Year to Come from out House to Yours, ENJOY.

Regards Lawrence
 
Top