Yes. It is an imperfect world, isn't it? Best of lucks with your phone and don´t be much scared when you'll see small things in high resolution. It can be frightening!
Thanks for the incentive.
JL
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Yes. It is an imperfect world, isn't it? Best of lucks with your phone and don´t be much scared when you'll see small things in high resolution. It can be frightening!
Thanks for the incentive.
JL
Hallelujah! Great excitement!!! 
Port side is finaly completely planked.
It is supposed to be a double plank ship, but the wood is the same for both plankings and I am pleased with thr first plankig so I think it will remain with this planking only.
It has yet to be sanded and probably treenailed.
Learned a lot from this building the starboard side is already on its way and it is much easier (and better) than the other side.
I'd better learn something because one of these days I'll have to plank Nuestra Señora del Pilar and that is a different matter.
Regards
JL
Port side is finaly completely planked.
It is supposed to be a double plank ship, but the wood is the same for both plankings and I am pleased with thr first plankig so I think it will remain with this planking only.
It has yet to be sanded and probably treenailed.
Learned a lot from this building the starboard side is already on its way and it is much easier (and better) than the other side.
I'd better learn something because one of these days I'll have to plank Nuestra Señora del Pilar and that is a different matter.
Regards
JL
Well, I kind of ressurrected this build, not only because the hull was in an advanced state of building but also because I needed some training planking because I have a much larger ship to plank and better train in a guinea pig. So I took this model again and decided to finish it.
I started planking the starboard side and I discovered that it had become much easier, in these 8 moths since the last post I gained some expertise, a lot of practise and as the principal factor, I lost the fear of working hard wood, I began to learn from my mistakes and discovered that errors are repairable and even disasters can be amended.
Some lessons I learned from this kit so far:
--- It was a very good idea to fill between the bulkheads with the blue foam. Not only it gives an immediate idea of the form of the hull, very helpful especially in those more critical areas, bow and stern, but also you have a much larger surface to glue the planks to, and prevents the concave aspect you sometimes get between the bulkheads especially near the more curved zones, bow and stern. I intend to do the same to my other buildings (well, Niña already has the hull filled and I am very happy with it too).
--- Not a good idea to apply glue to the top of the planks to glue each one to the immediatelly above. This is because for some uinknown reason, PVA (at least the rapid one that I used mostly) leaves a white line between the planks. I know it was supposed to dry colorless, but it doesn't. And even sanding the white line remains. I hope it disappears when I apply somme finish to the hull (oil?).
--- I had the idea of adding a plank to the botttom of the false keel and to the bow, the same width of the keel. I am happy with the result because after planking I could remove the plank with a chisel and a file and I was left with a groove on witch the real keel enters easily.
The boat is meant to be single planked. As I wrote before, Constructo supplies some 0,6mm sapelly but nowhere is mentioned that is is intended to be for a second plankig, neither does it make any sense to have the first and the second planking in the same wood. Knowing what I know now I'd rather have made it two planking and this is because I don't like sapelly. A first planking of a softer wood like lime or koto would have been much easier to apply and the second planking could have been of a better wood like pear, or even the 0.6 mm sapelly. It would have make the planking much easier, but I'd not have learned as much as I did .
I don't like sapelly, not a bit. It has much too mach grain for a scale effect. For me it is a kind of a bad quality, cheaper mahogany. But it was what the kit supplied, so as I had no alternative at the time I started the kit, sapelly it is.
Now for some photos:
almost there:
the plank removed on the false keel, leaves the space for the keel, stem and forefoot.
Done
Now, sanding and more sanding to give a decent finish to the hull, and then go on with this building while the others are taking a rest
Best regards
JL
I started planking the starboard side and I discovered that it had become much easier, in these 8 moths since the last post I gained some expertise, a lot of practise and as the principal factor, I lost the fear of working hard wood, I began to learn from my mistakes and discovered that errors are repairable and even disasters can be amended.
Some lessons I learned from this kit so far:
--- It was a very good idea to fill between the bulkheads with the blue foam. Not only it gives an immediate idea of the form of the hull, very helpful especially in those more critical areas, bow and stern, but also you have a much larger surface to glue the planks to, and prevents the concave aspect you sometimes get between the bulkheads especially near the more curved zones, bow and stern. I intend to do the same to my other buildings (well, Niña already has the hull filled and I am very happy with it too).
--- Not a good idea to apply glue to the top of the planks to glue each one to the immediatelly above. This is because for some uinknown reason, PVA (at least the rapid one that I used mostly) leaves a white line between the planks. I know it was supposed to dry colorless, but it doesn't. And even sanding the white line remains. I hope it disappears when I apply somme finish to the hull (oil?).
--- I had the idea of adding a plank to the botttom of the false keel and to the bow, the same width of the keel. I am happy with the result because after planking I could remove the plank with a chisel and a file and I was left with a groove on witch the real keel enters easily.
The boat is meant to be single planked. As I wrote before, Constructo supplies some 0,6mm sapelly but nowhere is mentioned that is is intended to be for a second plankig, neither does it make any sense to have the first and the second planking in the same wood. Knowing what I know now I'd rather have made it two planking and this is because I don't like sapelly. A first planking of a softer wood like lime or koto would have been much easier to apply and the second planking could have been of a better wood like pear, or even the 0.6 mm sapelly. It would have make the planking much easier, but I'd not have learned as much as I did
.I don't like sapelly, not a bit. It has much too mach grain for a scale effect. For me it is a kind of a bad quality, cheaper mahogany. But it was what the kit supplied, so as I had no alternative at the time I started the kit, sapelly it is.
Now for some photos:
almost there:
the plank removed on the false keel, leaves the space for the keel, stem and forefoot.
Done
Now, sanding and more sanding to give a decent finish to the hull, and then go on with this building while the others are taking a rest
Best regards
JL
Hull properly sanded, it is begining to gain its appendices. Stem and sternpost very soon to be followed by the keel.
By the way, I discovered that these small plastic cable ties are ideal to retain difficult pieces in place while the glue sets.
And with a pin you can make them reusable too.
Regards
JL
By the way, I discovered that these small plastic cable ties are ideal to retain difficult pieces in place while the glue sets.
And with a pin you can make them reusable too.
Regards
JL
Never saw the use of these plastic cable ties in ship modeling before, but it is a very good idea - Many Thanks for the hint
OK, back to this old building, I think this old kit deserves being built, when I bought it I knew nothing about quality in a ship kit, now I have some more experience to say if a model deserves being built or not. This one deserves. It compares well with some others I bought much later and I can't foget that I have it for more than 30 years now and it is out of production for a long time.
True that the instructions are not a big deal, but who needs instructions, anyway? They are mostly a mess even by today standards so it compares well with today's efforts. The wood is presentable and as good or better than more recent kits. Being very old it took a goldish tone very pleasant to see.
Finished the planking I gave some attention to sanding and finishing it, so it was well sanded and the imperfections corrected and filled. I was very pleased with the final result
It gained its keel and false keel and started to look like a ship.
Itr also gained its gardrails (or wales? some help needed here!)
They were painted black (indian ink - in portuguese it is china ink...) and treenailed
I replaced the wood for the coamings (??? I am not sure this is the correct word, sorry). I used orange tree, not a very common wood, but it sure is a very good one, without grain and curving wonderfully under the heat of my hot air gun. The original wood was a poor one. Usable but with poor look.
The same wood was used for all the stern pieces, I don't know the technical name of that part of the ship.
A very fortunate crew, their latrines were also made of orange tree. A luxury for a 1812 crew, no doubt.
I also treenailed the bulwarks around the gun doors, I used broom bristles for the effect, I found a broom with cylindrical bristles and all of them around .80mm diameter . And has it has a lot of bristles I have enough material for about a hundred or so models...
and here is whrere I am today:
As a conclusion for today, I am beginning to like the model and I think that I can make a decent model out of it. I've learned a lot from my buildings and I am using the acquired expertise to improve what is already a very decent kit. A shame it is out of production.
Regards
JL
True that the instructions are not a big deal, but who needs instructions, anyway? They are mostly a mess even by today standards so it compares well with today's efforts. The wood is presentable and as good or better than more recent kits. Being very old it took a goldish tone very pleasant to see.
Finished the planking I gave some attention to sanding and finishing it, so it was well sanded and the imperfections corrected and filled. I was very pleased with the final result
It gained its keel and false keel and started to look like a ship.
Itr also gained its gardrails (or wales? some help needed here!)
They were painted black (indian ink - in portuguese it is china ink...) and treenailed
I replaced the wood for the coamings (??? I am not sure this is the correct word, sorry). I used orange tree, not a very common wood, but it sure is a very good one, without grain and curving wonderfully under the heat of my hot air gun. The original wood was a poor one. Usable but with poor look.
The same wood was used for all the stern pieces, I don't know the technical name of that part of the ship.
A very fortunate crew, their latrines were also made of orange tree. A luxury for a 1812 crew, no doubt
.I also treenailed the bulwarks around the gun doors, I used broom bristles for the effect, I found a broom with cylindrical bristles and all of them around .80mm diameter . And has it has a lot of bristles I have enough material for about a hundred or so models...
and here is whrere I am today:
As a conclusion for today, I am beginning to like the model and I think that I can make a decent model out of it. I've learned a lot from my buildings and I am using the acquired expertise to improve what is already a very decent kit. A shame it is out of production.
Regards
JL
Very clean and accurate work - Looking very good
Next task: gunport covers.
I was not very happy with the solution that Constructo found to represent the gunport covers, with brass hinges (out of scale) and a plain board to represent the cover.
So I decided to improve the covers by making them out of pieces of 3 wood strips, and put aside the brass hinges
Also used some black iron to make the rings and their hinges.
The hinges were made of flatened (with a hammer) black iron, better that the original brass ones, this ship was not a fancy frigate or ship of the line but a humble priveteer with nofancy stuff.
and in place:
I am very heppy with the result.
According to Constructo the Prince had the last two cannons omited on each side, as well as the two on the stern, hence the gun doors closed.
The kit does not mention the remaining gun covers neither do they supply any information either on the plans or on the instructions. But I'm going to represent them open, so I must gain some courage and made the remaining 18 covers. I think it will add to the look of the model.
Best regards
JL
I was not very happy with the solution that Constructo found to represent the gunport covers, with brass hinges (out of scale) and a plain board to represent the cover.
So I decided to improve the covers by making them out of pieces of 3 wood strips, and put aside the brass hinges
Also used some black iron to make the rings and their hinges.
The hinges were made of flatened (with a hammer) black iron, better that the original brass ones, this ship was not a fancy frigate or ship of the line but a humble priveteer with nofancy stuff.
and in place:
I am very heppy with the result.
According to Constructo the Prince had the last two cannons omited on each side, as well as the two on the stern, hence the gun doors closed.
The kit does not mention the remaining gun covers neither do they supply any information either on the plans or on the instructions. But I'm going to represent them open, so I must gain some courage and made the remaining 18 covers. I think it will add to the look of the model.
Best regards
JL
Looking very good - much much better than the original hinges.
One question: Usually the timbers of the lids were horizontal laying and following the direction of the hull planks - is it here different in the drawings?
One question: Usually the timbers of the lids were horizontal laying and following the direction of the hull planks - is it here different in the drawings?
To be honest I got inspiration on a building of the same ship by a different maker (Model Shipways). The builder made the lids vertical and I copied it. And I remember seing photos of small ships with the lids vertical. Maybe only the large ships had it horizontal, I don't know.
As this Prince is more a conjectural model than a real scale ship I don't mind having it that way, although it may really be an error.
Thanks for the reply.
JL
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Well, some more advance on this build. I changed the mast bases a little, they were supplied a plain piece of wood that you had to drill to take the eyebolts to support some rigging of the masts. I replaced the supplied piece by a more realistic looking base using some scrap wood (I don't know wich wood is the darker one, I have a lot of wood samples whose name I don't know).
The result, in place:
Next were the cat davits, no problem here, just add some more detail to enhance the look of the pieces.
Then, the boarding stair steps, again I didn't use the supplied wood, to thick to be real, I made some from thinner wood, I drilled 0,5mm holes and glued iron wite to the steps, it helped me to align them properly on the hull, and have the inner and the outer steps at the same height.
The belaying cleats supplied were plastic and not that realistic, so I made the 2 of them from pear and applied in place. Much better...
The mooring bitts were also made of pear, the supplied wood was too soft and yellowish, so I replaced them. There are three different sizes.
The ship, so far.
This build has teached me a lot of things that was what it was intended to do, given my lack of experience with ships and woods. I think I've done a reasonable job to what is a fair kit, so far. My other builds are at halted waiting for the experience I'm taking from this one.
But I'm missing the other ships and one of these days I'm going to pause this one and ressurect the others.
Best regards
JL
The result, in place:
Next were the cat davits, no problem here, just add some more detail to enhance the look of the pieces.
Then, the boarding stair steps, again I didn't use the supplied wood, to thick to be real, I made some from thinner wood, I drilled 0,5mm holes and glued iron wite to the steps, it helped me to align them properly on the hull, and have the inner and the outer steps at the same height.
The belaying cleats supplied were plastic and not that realistic, so I made the 2 of them from pear and applied in place. Much better...
The mooring bitts were also made of pear, the supplied wood was too soft and yellowish, so I replaced them. There are three different sizes.
The ship, so far.
This build has teached me a lot of things that was what it was intended to do, given my lack of experience with ships and woods. I think I've done a reasonable job to what is a fair kit, so far. My other builds are at halted waiting for the experience I'm taking from this one.
But I'm missing the other ships and one of these days I'm going to pause this one and ressurect the others.
Best regards
JL
Nice explanation of your improvement methods.
Jan
Jan
Small update.
I attacked the rudder and the chainplates
The rudderis the one supplied in the kit, I just replaced the metal parts, made some from brass, the original ones had large holes meaning to be filled with brass nails. I didn't like the idea, the nail heads were too big and somewhat out of scale, so I simulated the nails by engravements on the brass.
The chainplates were meant to be axactly that, chains, but I made some research and found that shouldn't be chains, nut iron, so I made them out of some black soft wire that I found in the net and it is very easy toi work with and adequate to this kind of work.
And the result:
I attacked the rudder and the chainplates
The rudderis the one supplied in the kit, I just replaced the metal parts, made some from brass, the original ones had large holes meaning to be filled with brass nails. I didn't like the idea, the nail heads were too big and somewhat out of scale, so I simulated the nails by engravements on the brass.
The chainplates were meant to be axactly that, chains, but I made some research and found that shouldn't be chains, nut iron, so I made them out of some black soft wire that I found in the net and it is very easy toi work with and adequate to this kind of work.
And the result:
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Looking great, Mike! Think you wrap it up inside the 2-year mark?
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Hi, I'm new to the forum, it turns out that looking for information about a ship I came across you and seeing a bit of the chola issues, I have the same ship already assembled, about 20 years ago, and I let it deteriorate a lot, now I want to restore it and I have to de-tree and re-tree to do a good job, the big problem is that I do not have the plans, especially the sails and locations of the lines, it would help me a lot if you can pass them to me, or have information on where getting them would be great, sorry for my English but I used a translator, regards
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Hello
At the present I can't help you, my health is not well and I don´t even know where I have the plans. If, as I expect things go better than when I'll turn to the hobby I will try to help.
But send me your email address and I'll send you the instruction manualof the Prince by another maker (Model shipways). I think it can help.
Regards
JL
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Thanks for answering, below I leave you the mail, I hope you get better, a hug and happy new year
francocipolletta@hotmail.com
francocipolletta@hotmail.com
Sent... Regards and thanks
JL
JL