I need advice from those of you who can and know... Thinking about "playing" with a copper variant for parts of the hull of my wooden boat model (scale 1/30). There is copper tape or thin copper sheet to buy. What thickness do you recommend? If copper tape/foil is used, then it is glue on the back, does it really last in the long run?
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Copper
- Thread starter winterwork
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I’m not sure where you plan to use copper on your boat so this may not apply to you BUT:
First of all I am very conservative in using new materials to build my models. For example, for a number of reasons, I don’t use CA glues. As a result, I have models in like new conditions that are over 40 years old. Likewise, I do not use materials secured by pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA). This would include any of the adhesive backed metal tapes.
I am currently building a model of a steel hulled ship. I initially tried to simulate the steel plating with PSA backed brass sheet metal. Long story short, the edges curled up, I put the model aside, and when I resumed work a couple of years later the brass easily peeled off. What I have found does work is shellac saturated paper secured with ordinary Titebond glue. This is one of the Polyvinyl Acetate family of glues. I’m sure that several are available in Sweden. In your case, this can easily then be painted with on of the copper paints.
Roger
First of all I am very conservative in using new materials to build my models. For example, for a number of reasons, I don’t use CA glues. As a result, I have models in like new conditions that are over 40 years old. Likewise, I do not use materials secured by pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA). This would include any of the adhesive backed metal tapes.
I am currently building a model of a steel hulled ship. I initially tried to simulate the steel plating with PSA backed brass sheet metal. Long story short, the edges curled up, I put the model aside, and when I resumed work a couple of years later the brass easily peeled off. What I have found does work is shellac saturated paper secured with ordinary Titebond glue. This is one of the Polyvinyl Acetate family of glues. I’m sure that several are available in Sweden. In your case, this can easily then be painted with on of the copper paints.
Roger
I purchased a roll of adhesive copper tape from Lee Valley. You use it for repelling slugs. I have done a test patch last year on wood that was primed to see if would hold. So far so good. I planned to use it on a future build that has copper plating on the hull. My concern is as yours, I have no idea if the corners will lift after 1,2 years or never. I'm thinking of purchasing copper sheet or stripping the adhesive from the back and using contact cement.
A source for adhesive-backed copper tapes is found in stained glass suppliers/shops. I cannot attest to how long or how well it wil adhere over time. In stained glass uses, it gets soldered. It is usually available in several different widths.
Thank you for the answer! Hope the glue will last, but I wonder... Copper sheet with contact cement is maybe the answer.
Thanks for your answer!
Thank you for the answer!
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An alternative to adhesive backed copper tape. Originally copper tape available for coppering model ship hulls was not adhesive, it required the use of contact cement. I can't find tape anymore in the size I need that is not adhesive, so I remove the adhesive and apply contact cement. I've used contact cement for coppering since the early 90's, no problems. That's not to say adhesive copper tape is not effective, it would seem easier to apply, but I have no experience in how long the adhesive is effective.
I have used some small pieces of adhesive backed tape for "bands" on masts, etc.., easier than using paper. However, I found I still have to apply either CA glue or contact cement.
I have used some small pieces of adhesive backed tape for "bands" on masts, etc.., easier than using paper. However, I found I still have to apply either CA glue or contact cement.
I don't have copper tape but I got aluminium tape. And that stick to everything, It will also stick forever. On wood, plastics, metals and glass
I agree with Steef66. I have used aluminum adhesive backed tape for my RC boats for the cut water pieces on the bow and stern sections. It has never come off (except when I hit the dock or rocks) so I would think that type of product would work well on static display models.
Jim
I agree with Steef66. I have used aluminum adhesive backed tape for my RC boats for the cut water pieces on the bow and stern sections. It has never come off (except when I hit the dock or rocks) so I would think that type of product would work well on static display models.
Jim
Thanks for reply. Interesting! I also believe in using other glue. I found copper plates on the net with a thickness of 0.5 mm online. Hope they can be cut with a scalpel... Or maybe I should try 1 mm thick, or more?
Copper plate on the hulls was typically 26 to 28 ounces per square foot, so if my math is correct, it would be about 0.3 inches thick At 1:48 scale this would be 0.17mm thick. 0.5mm would be pretty close if your scale is 1:12 or so. The plates overlap, working from the waterline down to the keel so if they are too thick it may look odd.
Allan
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Thanks for the answer and your knowledge. I'll look for thinner copper sheets than I thought. They can probably be cut with a scalpel.
Hi @winterwork, I went through the same questioning process as yourself about methods of copper sheathing my Syren build. I had very helpful advice from SOS members who provided me with several possible solutions. I settled on copper tape, which I purchased from China (see linked discussion below). Heinrich @Heinrich very helpfully provided me with advice and links to the supplier and that is the route I took a couple of years or so ago.
The indented copper tape I used has adhered well. I checked the hull again this morning and see all plates remain firmly attached even after a fair amount of careful handling. If you have time my build log contains quite a few pages from forum members about copper plating starting back at page 9. There's a couple of photos showing the finished work later on, which helps see the overall effect on the hull too.
I hope this helps you as another coppering option.
The indented copper tape I used has adhered well. I checked the hull again this morning and see all plates remain firmly attached even after a fair amount of careful handling. If you have time my build log contains quite a few pages from forum members about copper plating starting back at page 9. There's a couple of photos showing the finished work later on, which helps see the overall effect on the hull too.
I hope this helps you as another coppering option.
Syren 1803 1:64 Model Shipways
Hi Roger. The deck planking and gratings, those minute scuppers; the quality of the inner bulwark planking and some of the neatest gunport linings I have ever seen, all add up to a great visual effect. No doubt the Syren is a beautiful model, but in your hands, it is becoming a special model.
shipsofscale.com
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This thread has been very interesting so I did some research. It has a shelf life before use and a life span after application. The following points were the most common that I found. This is enough to sworry me. It would be great to see photos of self-adhesive copper bottomed models that are five or ten or more years old if any members have had good luck with it regarding lifespan.
Self adhesive copper foil will degrade over time but the lifespan after application depends largely on the environment and quality of the adhesive, Generally, it can last several years when properly applied and stored in a moderate climate, with the potential to degrade faster in humid conditions or with exposure to extreme temperatures, or direct sunlight.
Key factors affecting longevity:
High-quality adhesives with strong bonding properties will last longer than cheaper options.
Surface cleanliness: Applying to a clean, dust-free surface maximizes adhesion.
Exposure to household or other chemicals: Certain chemicals can damage the copper foil and adhesive.
Signs of degradation:
Peeling edges: If the copper foil starts to lift at the edges, it may be nearing the end of its lifespan.
Discoloration: Tarnished or oxidized copper indicates potential degradation.
Self adhesive copper foil will degrade over time but the lifespan after application depends largely on the environment and quality of the adhesive, Generally, it can last several years when properly applied and stored in a moderate climate, with the potential to degrade faster in humid conditions or with exposure to extreme temperatures, or direct sunlight.
Key factors affecting longevity:
High-quality adhesives with strong bonding properties will last longer than cheaper options.
Surface cleanliness: Applying to a clean, dust-free surface maximizes adhesion.
Exposure to household or other chemicals: Certain chemicals can damage the copper foil and adhesive.
Signs of degradation:
Peeling edges: If the copper foil starts to lift at the edges, it may be nearing the end of its lifespan.
Discoloration: Tarnished or oxidized copper indicates potential degradation.
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I believe 26 to 28 ounces per square foot is ~
0.03 inches thick (~1/32). So at 1:48 scale, that would be 0.0006 inches or 0.017 mm.