Cutter Cheerful 1806 Build Log

Uwek

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Many thanks for views and likes. Struggling with margin planks. These hook scarf joints are cheeky little bastards.
"bastards" - Oh YES - but when they are done- these details are looking great
BTW: Until now, nobody was able to tell me, if these kind of joints were used for the deck or waterway-planking, or not? - But looking very good
 

Gennaro

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"bastards" - Oh YES - but when they are done- these details are looking great
BTW: Until now, nobody was able to tell me, if these kind of joints were used for the deck or waterway-planking, or not? - But looking very good
Uwe,
According to David Antscherl (Swan class sloop, V2) who quotes Steel (Naval Architecture, Folio XXXV), waterway's dimensions are 10" by 4" thick. It is bearded back by 3/8" under the spirketting and bevels down to 3" on its inboard edges. So waterway and margin plank are cut out as single piece of timber and hence hook scarf joint was cut to a single plank. I tried to replicate this on my last model (Oliver Cromwell) by, listen to this, free-hand milling. Never again. On the other hand, Peter Goodwin, in his book on cutter Alert, shows in cross section separation between waterway and margin plank. Who would ever know for sure? Thanks for the views and likes.
 

Maarten

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The scarph looks great but you would expect the scraph of the waterway to be in the height of the plank instead of the width. If the scraph is in the height of the waterway plank, countersunk and bolted on top of a deckbeam it contributes to the strength of the hull. With a scraph in the height of the plank on top you see only a but joined.
 

Gennaro

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The scarph looks great but you would expect the scraph of the waterway to be in the height of the plank instead of the width. If the scraph is in the height of the waterway plank, countersunk and bolted on top of a deckbeam it contributes to the strength of the hull. With a scraph in the height of the plank on top you see only a but joined.
You're absolutely right. Last time I cut them I did them right - this time I screwed up. Oh well...

IMG_0056.JPG
 

Gennaro

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Thanks for the likes. Much appreciated. I recently purchased these rigging hooks (3 mm) from ZHL store at Aliexpress. Superior quality to anything I've seen so far. They are so tiny, so how on earth am I going to rig carronades with them? I guess, microscope is next on the list.

IMG_0063.JPG
 

Uwek

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Thanks for the likes. Much appreciated. I recently purchased these rigging hooks (3 mm) from ZHL store at Aliexpress. Superior quality to anything I've seen so far. They are so tiny, so how on earth am I going to rig carronades with them? I guess, microscope is next on the list.

View attachment 124335
They are really looking good - we need more of these photo etched parts in the different scales on the market, like hooks, gun port lid hinges, horseshoes etc....
 

Gennaro

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They are really looking good - we need more of these photo etched parts in the different scales on the market, like hooks, gun port lid hinges, horseshoes etc....
Agree with you 100%, but where? This was a pure luck.:)
 

Gennaro

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Small update. Finished planking the deck - not too pleased with it. While sanding/scraping almost all the pencil marks simulating caulking disappeared :( Plus,
there are some cracks. Any advice how to fix this, if it's fixable? Built bowsprit and associated bitts. Merry Christmas fellow modellers and all the best in New year!

IMG_0075.JPG

IMG_0076.JPG

IMG_0078.JPG
 

Jimsky

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Looking very good and accurate! Cracks can be repaired using wood filler, as for caulking simulation restore, one of the methods to try is to use very sharp needlepoint and move it between the adjacent plank edges to make a grove, then use a very sharp pencil to mark caulking again. NOTE: this has to be done with extreme caution as too much pressure and the wrong move can mark the planks. Please think twice!!! ;)
 

Gennaro

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Looking very good and accurate! Cracks can be repaired using wood filler, as for caulking simulation restore, one of the methods to try is to use very sharp needlepoint and move it between the adjacent plank edges to make a grove, then use a very sharp pencil to mark caulking again. NOTE: this has to be done with extreme caution as too much pressure and the wrong move can mark the planks. Please think twice!!! ;)
Thanks for the tip. That cross my mind, but makes me very nervous. I think I'll experiment on some scrap wood before I dig into the deck. I haven't apply any finish yet (intend to apply wipe on poly). Would that enhance seams between planks?
 
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