That’s interesting…how you store them. I noticed that the bottles I have on my bench all have developed this weird white powdery coating on the outside. The bottles also are hardening and they’ve hardly been used. Still very new to all this and CA in this format is not something I’m used to (yet).
IMHO, the cap is usually the issue with ca drying up most companies have a fairly rudimentary cap to “seal” the bottle. The tighter the cap the better the seal. I’ve found Mercury brand has a screw down cap with a pin in the tip to form a good seal. Also it seems that ca doesn’t adhere to the material of the nozzle like other brands. Loctite is another brand that uses a decent sealing cap.
I used to use Bob Smith and Zap products exclusively, however, because of the poor snap on caps, they would consistently try out overtime. Now I wipe down the tip and reseal the bottle each time I fill my ca cup and have never refrigerated the bottles. So far I haven’t had any issues with dried up bottles.
I used to use Bob Smith and Zap products exclusively, however, because of the poor snap on caps, they would consistently try out overtime. Now I wipe down the tip and reseal the bottle each time I fill my ca cup and have never refrigerated the bottles. So far I haven’t had any issues with dried up bottles.
To be honest I haven't used it for rigging, only for fastening metal bits to wood. The applicator tip would be good for doing rigging knots and unless you are fastening a knot that wants to come loose the setting time shouldn't be too much of an issue. With any luck I'll start rigging my current build after Christmas and let you know!
Does it work on plastic and PEB?
Thanks for sharing that you’ve experienced the hardening issue. I’ve had the same experience and just thought it was me, as in not closing the bottle tightly.
I believe that the white powdery stuff I believe is vapor from the CA that is curing. You can usually just wipe it off. You especially will notice it on clear items (like the lenses of my head worn magnifiers). The one thing that you need to be cautious of is that going in and out of the refrigerator can cause condensation which will also cause the CA to cure. I usually just leave it open on my workbench. with a microtip on the thin, it doesn't seen to have a problem I guess due to there not being a large opening for the air to get in. If it does harden in the bottle, I consider it a "cost of doing business" and get another. It doesn't harden over night and usually lasts many month. I didn't even have any problems with my CA due to the move across the country. I do limit myself to only getting the 1/2 oz bottles.
I’ve been using VMS’s Flexy 5K CA. It’s made in Poland and can be ordered directly from them or it can be bought in hobby stores in the USA. So far it’s worked pretty well, a little goes a long way. I’ve been applying it with mini cotton buds that come to a point so it’s pretty easy to get the CA into tight places. I was using the glue loops but they seemed to be more trouble than they’re worth. Those buds are a great way to apply paint also. I would bet that most artisans here have probably already discovered both. I’ve used it for photo etched brass together with styrene and plastic to plastic. It’s a pretty good bond.
When I talk about something being a challenge to handle, it’s my MeSs being the challenge so the average person would have a different opinion. I hope this adds something of value to the discussion. In the words of a great philosopher…”Push through the challenges…nothing is really perfect!”
a
When I talk about something being a challenge to handle, it’s my MeSs being the challenge so the average person would have a different opinion. I hope this adds something of value to the discussion. In the words of a great philosopher…”Push through the challenges…nothing is really perfect!”
rI believe that the white powdery stuff I believe is vapor from the CA that is curing. You can usually just wipe it off. You especially will notice it on clear items (like the lenses of my head worn magnifiers). The one thing that you need to be cautious of is that going in and out of the refrigerator can cause condensation which will also cause the CA to cure. I usually just leave it open on my workbench. with a microtip on the thin, it doesn't seen to have a problem I guess due to there not being a large opening for the air to get in. If it does harden in the bottle, I consider it a "cost of doing business" and get another. It doesn't harden over night and usually lasts many month. I didn't even have any problems with my CA due to the move across the country. I do limit myself to only getting the 1/2 oz bottles.
a
Yes
Just ordered one...
I have not done rigging yet, but I believe the UV setting glues may be a great option for them. They will not harden until exposed to the UV so they will give you all the time you need to make sure the rigging is how you want it.
Good to remember that moisture is the enemy of storing CA. It is moisture that cures CA. Moisture creates that weird white powdery coating on the outside from CA vapors seeping out. So keeping CA away from moisture or moisture away from CA is the challenge! As an aside if you want quick tack with CA such as in planking, moisten the wood (not wet…moist) and use CA gel.
Last edited:
I build airplanes, mostly, and have been using CA for a long time. My take is that one of the most important attributes of any CA brand is the container and the tip. If the tip becomes clogged you're in trouble. I've settled on the Pacer ZAP line because it has a clever two-part sealing bottle top that does a pretty good job of keeping water, dust, and other contaminants out of the bottle. It also has a removable tip with a fine point and extra tips are readily available. I keep a couple dozen of the tips in a tightly sealed jar in acetone. Every time I start a session I get a perfectly clean tip from the jar and then dump the used one back in the jar when I'm done for the day.
Hi Thomas
I have also a serious problem with CA the only one I can use is Bob Smith odorless both thick and thin
They are more expensive and not as "fast" but worth every penny
I will try the Hypo Cement though thanks
I have also a serious problem with CA the only one I can use is Bob Smith odorless both thick and thin
They are more expensive and not as "fast" but worth every penny
I will try the Hypo Cement though thanks
These are the tips I purchased from the big A for less than $8 for 200 of them. They just slip over the existing tip of the glue bottle.
I bought a package of them about six months ago and I'm still on my first one. One package should last a century.