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Drum sander, thickness sander DIY (with plans)

EspenT said:
I have received most of the parts now and cut the plywood. Did you use the nut insert and machine screws to fasten the ball bearings and normal wood screws for the rest?
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Yes. The parts that you have to release now and then. Like the bearings.
 
Steef66 said:
That's the difficult part. Make sure everything is lined up correct. This will give you advantage in the future.
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Yes. I need a break now before the final assembly. I am not super happy with the height difference between left and right side. If I start raising one side then it will no longer be parallel with the top plate (F). I will see where I stand after creating the drum.
 
The way the slide is designed, makes it a perfect if the machine is made of wood. It is a more steady then using a hinge and a screw to raise. It works, you turn the screw every time a little bit and a tiny layer of wood is take away. Thanks for sharing your build here.
 
RichardG said:
Great design. I'm looking to sand rather thin material reliably. Frequently down to 0.4mm. I've always wondered, do these wooden drums become distorted from humidity changes?
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No Idea, I used for the drum hardwood. And when the wood changes it wil do it over the lenght. So you will never novice in your result. Because you sand and measure till your result is good
 
I guess any minor inconsistencies are averaged out by the rotation. I've been wanting to turn my spindle sander into a thicknesser for some time and your design is the best I've seen for making adjustment.

Thank for sharing it.
 
RichardG said:
I guess any minor inconsistencies are averaged out by the rotation. I've been wanting to turn my spindle sander into a thicknesser for some time and your design is the best I've seen for making adjustment.

Thank for sharing it.
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Thanks. It is also stable, because the sled will always be straight to the drum. I had to sold mine, because someone needed one. But there are plans to build a new one in the future.
 
EspenT said:
What is a good RPM for the sanding drum?
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I go by the rule: 1700 RPM max - too fast and there could be char.

Hand feed thickness sander - if you stop there will be a dip/hollow that matches the diameter of the drum. The switch over from push to pull is tricky. Push with a thinner board. Also tricky when the stock back end goes from hanging in space to being on the deck.
Steef66 said:
A dust cover/suction is a luxury you will need. The very fine dust that comes from the machine will give you bad lungs
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And it will cover EVERYTHING in the environment - especially if the grit is 220-240.

I made a dust ciover -shopvac hose attachment

It is a box without a hid and the sides longer for a proper feed opening.
Measure the dimensions of the five pieces

Glue three layers of Amazon box quality corrugated cardboard with a generous layer of PVA glue (use weight for a tight fit). This will make a thick side for each of the five pieces.
Enforce each of the eight inside right angle box seams with 1/4"x1/4" and as long as it takes sticks - I cut mine from a Pine 2x4. PVA bond them.
Cut a hole in the middle of the top that is vac house diameter. vac female socket.jpg
The vac hose socket is fixed at the hole using screws going thru the cardboard and into pieces of 1/4"x1/4" Pine glued to the underside of the top piece.

I covered the outside with a lot of duct tape. Easier to clean The 4 vertical sticks make good legs.

The hose weight will shift the dust funnel box if not planned against. I use bungee cords attached to a sky hook.

A cyclone trap between the sander and the vac saves having to clean the vac filter every 10 minutes. The sawdust is fine and of a huge volume.
 
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