PLEASE MAYBE ADINISTRTOR OR MODERATOR CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME A LINK I WOOD LIKE TO PURCHASE THIS ONE PLEASE HELP GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
Dutch Hoogaars Fishing Vessel
- Thread starter UrkerVisser
- Start date
- Watchers 10
Hi. Before I bought my Proxxon lathe I tapered masts, booms and gaffs just with a electric drill with variable speed.
Clamp the drill on your workbench, guide the end of the round with one hand and tapper it with some sandpaper in you other hand. Just slow and relaxed, take your time, don’t push to hard.
Regards, Peter
Thanks Peter, that sounds like a good idea!
I could also mount a drill chuck into a drill press vice on my workbench in such a way that it could rotate freely and use it as a tailstock with the mast between it and the drill.
I've also used my drill press as a 'vertical' lathe to polish the commutators of model railway motors using a strip of number 1200 abrasive cloth and it worked great!
Mvg, UrkVisser
Hello Don,
This kit is number 'MA 781' from 'Mantua Models Italy' and is called 'Dutch Fishing Vessel ARM 82'; it's also very reasonably priced.
Please scroll down to the bottom of the SOS start page and you'll see advertisements from several dealers who support this forum such as 'Age of Sail' and many others.
Smooth sailing! UrkVisser
Here you go @donfarr:
Hello UrkVisser - sorry for popping onto your build report out of nowhere - but it is permitted to post retail webpages - and this will be the most helpful thing we can do for our friend Don.
Arm 82 (Mantua, 1:25) - Mantua
<p>The ARM 82 is an attractive model of a typical Dutch fishing vessel. The hull is flat-bottomed, an aid against running aground in shallow water.</p> <p>The Mantua kit features the following: A plank on frame hull construction, building plans with gene
www.agesofsail.com
Hello UrkVisser - sorry for popping onto your build report out of nowhere - but it is permitted to post retail webpages - and this will be the most helpful thing we can do for our friend Don.
Hi! Thanks for explaining this!
I'm new here and was part of various hobby forums who were very strict about not giving commercial 'plugs' or prices as not to offend their various advertising clients.
Best Wishes! UrkVisser
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2024
- Messages
- 56
- Points
- 58
As I started the block plane question I feel I should chip in.
The best source hereabouts is local flea markets/car boot sales, or even eBay for second hand versions. Modern versions are made, but they can be ridiculously expensive. You need something that uses blades easily purchased - not because you might wear one out, but because you might want to have a couple with different angles of bevel to alter the effective angle of the cutting edge.
As regards the shooting board - the bed would need to be as long as the intended longest mast.
Others have already spoken about purchased dowels, saying 'avoid them' if possible, and I would agree. You could be better looking in firewood piles, and splitting out beech, or pine, into long straight lengths. If the grain of the timber is aligned with the shape - then you have a chance of it drying straight. dowels are intended to be round, and the grain is immaterial to most I see, so as it dries, it may bow, even if straight when purchased.
If you use a belt sander, then obtain some belts finer than 80 grit. 80 grit may be OK if you are roughing work, but for a more controllable cut on the sizes we use I would suggest something much finer. And again, drill the metal guides to attach longer wooden supports, and add fitments that control the rate of cut. As the belt may be inclined to flap as it stretches, aim to make an area with some nylon castors keeping the belt down to the base so that you have an area where you can dimension timbers accurately. A beauty of a hand plane is that you can easily take off 0.05 of a millimetre with a sharp blade and suitable hold downs. No such control with a powered abrasive unless you modify the machinery.
Once you've fitted out the workshop/workbench making the ship is easy!
J
Yes, finding a good block plane now a days is about like King Arthur's quest to find the 'Holy Grail!" Too bad I can't order the 'Spear & Jackson' planes here because they have some small ones for about 30 to 40 €.
But I've seen some deluxe professional block planes here in Germany starting at just under 200 €. Goodness! Yes, the cheap ones here are miserable even for touching up door frames!
Well, I probably bought this sander more with heart and not with my brain! It was meant for other projects anyway like constructing model train benchwork.
I would most likely taper my fingers on it more than my masts. And I don't want to even think about it jamming between the sander's disc and it's table. Maybe it would even fly across the room or they would find me passed on 'shot by an arrow'!
But there's no hurry as I have only started by surveying what I'll need before I start on the model.
Greetings! UrkVisser
But I've seen some deluxe professional block planes here in Germany starting at just under 200 €. Goodness! Yes, the cheap ones here are miserable even for touching up door frames!
Well, I probably bought this sander more with heart and not with my brain! It was meant for other projects anyway like constructing model train benchwork.
I would most likely taper my fingers on it more than my masts. And I don't want to even think about it jamming between the sander's disc and it's table. Maybe it would even fly across the room or they would find me passed on 'shot by an arrow'!
But there's no hurry as I have only started by surveying what I'll need before I start on the model.
Greetings! UrkVisser
One vendor where you can be sure of getting a good plane is Lee Valley. For any brand you'll also need a method for keeping it sharpened.
Thanks for the tip Van!
Alas, Lee Valley won't deal with me here in Germany in Euros but these Canadian 'Veritas' planes look wonderful! I just discovered a 'Veritas' dealer in Berlin who has several models of 'Veritas' mini planes for between 75 and 100 € or so (even in a gift box). I'll definately consider buying one!
PS: I haven't visited Canada in well over 35 years now.
Best Regards, UrkVisser
All you need is a little finger plane. The first picture is my Stanley #101. No longer made but they are available used. The second is a Jorgensen 3.5 inch mini plane, which is available on Amazon for $14.98. Fair winds!
Here is also an interesting type of plane called a 'Spoke Shave' which is designed for planing round stock such as wooden wagen wheel spokes and costs under 30 € in the Netherlands.
UrkVisser
UrkVisser
Spokeshaves are very useful for paddles, oars, decoy ducks, tool handles, chair legs, and, of course, spokes for wood wheels. Not much use for spars, where you are shaping long sections. That is the place for planes.
Fair winds!
Hi everybody!
I finally ordered a good, little plane today which is also good for oak.
It's the 'Kunz - Model Building Plane (New Version), number 3144' made in Hannover, Germany.
Its only 85 mm long and it's blade (which has a 'Rockwell' rating of HRC 61) is 25 mm wide. It cost me just under 30 € and I also spent 7,50 € for a spare blade for it.
I bought it from a German hobby dealer where I could pay in Euro through a bank transfer payment in advance (which I prefer). I don't use credit cards or 'payment pals' of any kind and only buy from dealers who are tidy with the 'Industry and Handel's Commission'. Better so!
Anyway I looked through all the written material and plans for my Hoogaar today and learned the mast which is 38 cm long must taper from 10 mm to 3.5 mm; so it's good I bought the plane and also 4 times the necessary wood stock incase I goof (and I will no doubt).
The kit also comes with a package of powered wood stain to mix with 100 ml water to brush onto all the wood parts before assembly. Alas, this stain is dark. Of course the photo on the model's box shows it in a pleasant oak color and that's what I want. But if I use this enclosed stain it will look as if I brushed it down with molasses! And if I thin it down more the wood may warp.
My wife also doesn't care for yellowish pine or fir stain so I ordered some light oak stain today plus enough small parts, paint and tools for all three of my model ship projects to last the entire month.
(I only place orders monthly.)
I'll soon rig my 1:77 'Bluenose' (1921) schooner, set my home sewn sails on it and also finally finish painting my North Sea Grimsby/Hull trawler and finish it. A forth project would be building a scale model of the 'Granton' or 'Otter' trawl net for my trawler. But scale fabric in 1:142 will be difficult to find. Maybe I could hang the trawler and trawl in our hallway if the 'Admiralty' allows it!
Best Regards, UrkVisser
I finally ordered a good, little plane today which is also good for oak.
It's the 'Kunz - Model Building Plane (New Version), number 3144' made in Hannover, Germany.
Its only 85 mm long and it's blade (which has a 'Rockwell' rating of HRC 61) is 25 mm wide. It cost me just under 30 € and I also spent 7,50 € for a spare blade for it.
I bought it from a German hobby dealer where I could pay in Euro through a bank transfer payment in advance (which I prefer). I don't use credit cards or 'payment pals' of any kind and only buy from dealers who are tidy with the 'Industry and Handel's Commission'. Better so!
Anyway I looked through all the written material and plans for my Hoogaar today and learned the mast which is 38 cm long must taper from 10 mm to 3.5 mm; so it's good I bought the plane and also 4 times the necessary wood stock incase I goof (and I will no doubt).
The kit also comes with a package of powered wood stain to mix with 100 ml water to brush onto all the wood parts before assembly. Alas, this stain is dark. Of course the photo on the model's box shows it in a pleasant oak color and that's what I want. But if I use this enclosed stain it will look as if I brushed it down with molasses! And if I thin it down more the wood may warp.
My wife also doesn't care for yellowish pine or fir stain so I ordered some light oak stain today plus enough small parts, paint and tools for all three of my model ship projects to last the entire month.
(I only place orders monthly.)
I'll soon rig my 1:77 'Bluenose' (1921) schooner, set my home sewn sails on it and also finally finish painting my North Sea Grimsby/Hull trawler and finish it. A forth project would be building a scale model of the 'Granton' or 'Otter' trawl net for my trawler. But scale fabric in 1:142 will be difficult to find. Maybe I could hang the trawler and trawl in our hallway if the 'Admiralty' allows it!
Best Regards, UrkVisser
Last edited:
Hi UrkVisser,
Compliments for your builds.
Has nobody in Holland so far taken the trouble of telling you that the ship type you are building is in fact called a Hoogaars with an s on the end? I suppose you thought that the s was for the plural form, but the name is really Hoogaars (singular). It means something like 'high butt'. Not very elegant, but nobody is to blame for that.
Good luck with your build.
Ab
Compliments for your builds.
Has nobody in Holland so far taken the trouble of telling you that the ship type you are building is in fact called a Hoogaars with an s on the end? I suppose you thought that the s was for the plural form, but the name is really Hoogaars (singular). It means something like 'high butt'. Not very elegant, but nobody is to blame for that.
Good luck with your build.
Ab
Hi Ab!Hi UrkVisser,
Compliments for your builds.
Has nobody in Holland so far taken the trouble of telling you that the ship type you are building is in fact called a Hoogaars with an s on the end? I suppose you thought that the s was for the plural form, but the name is really Hoogaars (singular). It means something like 'high butt'. Not very elegant, but nobody is to blame for that.
Good luck with your build.
Ab
Thanks for pointing this out to me because I was also wondering! I like this vessel because the model with the lee boards handing down and the big rudder makes it look something like a fish!
My model also has a cooker on it's deck; could you please tell me what it was for and which fish were cooked straight away after being caught? Maybe crabs or something? And also were these cookers coal, wood or oil fired?
PS: I've also now included my photo as an avatar.
Mvg, UrkVisser
This might be the moment to advise you to lay your hands on a wonderful book by Jules van Beylen: de Hoogaars. (Try boekwinkeltjes.nl: https://www.boekwinkeltjes.nl/b/220114341/De-Hoogaars-en-de-Visserij/)
Although a complete report how to build a hoogaars model is included in this richly illustrated book, together with all sorts of historic facts, there is no mentioning of a stove or cooker. The type was mainly used for catching mussels and oysters, I don't know if it is necessary to cook them immediately after the catch, like it is done with shrimps.
I hope this helps.
Ab
By the way, linguistically spoken your avatar should be: 'UrkerVisser' or even better: 'Urker Visserman' (fisherman from the isle of Urk).
Although a complete report how to build a hoogaars model is included in this richly illustrated book, together with all sorts of historic facts, there is no mentioning of a stove or cooker. The type was mainly used for catching mussels and oysters, I don't know if it is necessary to cook them immediately after the catch, like it is done with shrimps.
I hope this helps.
Ab
By the way, linguistically spoken your avatar should be: 'UrkerVisser' or even better: 'Urker Visserman' (fisherman from the isle of Urk).
Having had a better look into my book case I found out that there are two versions of the book. I have them both for some reason. Apart from the simple one I showed earlier, there is also a more luxurious edition with lots of new details, like for instance the stove. I copy the pages here:
It turns out that Hoogaarzen (plural) also fished on shrimp. And these poor creatures were cooked alive straight out of the net.
Here is the info I found:
Hope this helps.
Ab
It turns out that Hoogaarzen (plural) also fished on shrimp. And these poor creatures were cooked alive straight out of the net.
Here is the info I found:
Hope this helps.
Ab
Thanks for the info!
Now I also need to find some plans for shrimp or fish nets so I can sew a model net for my boat.
Mvg, UrkerVisser
PS: I corrected my user name, the title of this thread and edited my posts to 'Hoogaars'.
UrkVisser, I love the new model and look forward to your build log. Like you I love fishing vessels as I have Model Shipways lobster smack and pram, as well as Amati's Scottish fishing boat Fifie. I'm pulling up my stool to watch and learn, Magic Mike