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Glue

Quick is a relative term. PVA wood glue is considered non-toxic and sets enough to hold parts together, if they are properly made and fitted, in a minute or less. For some, this may not be considered quick. Many probably would consider "quick" and "building ship models" an oxymoron. :)
Allan
 
I use a high tack PVA glue like Aleene’s Tacky Glue when I want parts to stick together and hold quickly. I have noticed that the glue dries in the tip quickly as well and use a pin to open it for the next application…
 
Depending on your application, you may want to consider UV setting glue. Unlike CA it will not stick to you. The good side it that it will not stick to anything but then will set instantly when exposed to a UV light. (UV flashlights are easy to get on Amazon). I most often use it when setting PE pieces into place such as railing on ships. The down side is that it is not as strong as CA and has to be used in an area where it can be exposed to the UV.

Rob
 
I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue all the time. I put the cap back on and store it upside down in an unused deep coffee cup.
 
Stuart Little said:
BSI odourless CA.
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I second this. I was somewhat skeptical when I first read of this particular product, but given my sensitivity to CA glue and several recommendations from other forum members, I gave it a shot. I'm truly amazed that it works well (like any CA), but also that I have absolutely zero allergic reaction to it. It's been a life changing product for me and my pursuit of model building.
 
Rob444 said:
Depending on your application, you may want to consider UV setting glue. Unlike CA it will not stick to you. The good side it that it will not stick to anything but then will set instantly when exposed to a UV light. (UV flashlights are easy to get on Amazon). I most often use it when setting PE pieces into place such as railing on ships. The down side is that it is not as strong as CA and has to be used in an area where it can be exposed to the UV.

Rob
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So, if only UV light sets the glue, and the glue is between to tight fitting pieces, how does the UV light get between the parts? ROTF
 
Corsair said:
So, if only UV light sets the glue, and the glue is between to tight fitting pieces, how does the UV light get between the parts? ROTF
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I believe the UV acts as a catalyst. So if there is an exposed area of glue that extends under the part the reaction starts at the exposed area and propagates into the area not exposed to the UV. I am not certain of this to be honest.

However the reaction occurs, it does work and will not adhere to anything until it is exposed to the UV light. I find this property very helpful when setting small parts.
 
GV Division said:
Can anyone suggest a good "Quick setting, non-toxic" glue?
Thank you
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Depends on "how quick". For wooden construction I use Gorilla glue. For working with styrene plastic, I use Tamaya liquid solvent, but is is toxic. But it is the best and takes hold fast. Better than Testors in my opinion.
 
Mariner1941 said:
Depends on "how quick". For wooden construction I use Gorilla glue. For working with styrene plastic, I use Tamaya liquid solvent, but is is toxic. But it is the best and takes hold fast. Better than Testors in my opinion.
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I hope you mean Gorilla's PVA glue, because their "Original" is a polyurethane and not at all suitable for model construction. If you do mean the original, then neither it, nor the Tamaya fall into the "non-toxic" category the OP was asking about.

Most any PVA (Elmers Glue All, Titebond II, Tacky glue) are considered non-toxic, but not necessarily "quick setting". I think you might find the two somewhat mutually exclusive.
 
RussF said:
I hope you mean Gorilla's PVA glue, because their "Original" is a polyurethane and not at all suitable for model construction. If you do mean the original, then neither it, nor the Tamaya fall into the "non-toxic" category the OP was asking about.

Most any PVA (Elmers Glue All, Titebond II, Tacky glue) are considered non-toxic, but not necessarily "quick setting". I think you might find the two somewhat mutually exclusive.
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Yes, sorry for the misstatement. I meant it sets quicker,but not like super glue.
 
RickNoyes said:
I use titebond thick and quick. For many applications all it needs is a light clamp and about 15min to set enough to carry on.
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Is it me, or has Titebond become too runny and takes forever to set? I used it 30 years ago and it seemed much easier to work with, was thicker, etc.
 
Corsair said:
So, if only UV light sets the glue, and the glue is between to tight fitting pieces, how does the UV light get between the parts? ROTF
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Jeff, this is the crux of the problem. UV setting adhesives need at least one uv-translucent surface in order to work. If you are using them to glue wood together you are not getting a good bond. This may be Rob considers them a weaker bond than CA, they are only bonding the glue outside the gap. Look at number 6 on this list for more information.
 
There are one or two adhesives below that meet the request in post#1:

recent exploration:
hot pot liquid hide glue
It comes as gram strength
192g probably offers enough open time to make a lot of changes - could be up to an hour?
251g is the practical open time for us - time for quick position adjustment
315g you better get it right the first try - short open time
444g really quick - you blink and it is too late

The degree of instant grab increases with gram strength. for 192g there is probably not much grab.
If I am reading what is not being said correctly - there is no practical difference in bond strength between the four.

There is a 60g Animal Hide Glue on Amazon - I thought: now that sounds interesting. Turns out - here is no mention of using heat -the 60g is not the gram strength. It is the weight of the flakes in the pouch. It takes about a day to hydrate. Quick or instant are not in the conversation. It could be amateurs who do not play by craft rules selling it?

Also anything but quick or grabby are the premixed products:
Old Brown - it wants to be warm before application
StewMac Fish glue - room temp 1hr open time
Franklin Liquid Hide glue - which is a bit inauthentic in that it contains a couple of chemical additives
All three are probably better kept in a fridge and it seems that freezing does no harm.

All of the above seem to require 12 hr to fully cure.
 
I recently been using Tidebond Hide Glue for model building. It is a ready to go formulation of the one described above, retaining all the main advantages but without the need for hot pot. So far, I like it a lot. I'm not sure about the chemical additive though.
 
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