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glue

Hi,
I don't know why.
I am building the Amati Santa Maria kit, and that's what they show in the instructions. Artesania Latina also have it like that.
BTW - I modify the kit quite a lot, but keep to it where I like it.
 
I’ve been building wooden ship models for over 60 years. I use Elmer's white glue for wood to wood construction. Cures fairly fast, about 20 minutes. If you have any doubts about its holding strength, try this simple test, glue two pieces of wood together let them cure for at least a couple hours and then try to break them apart. I can guarantee the wood will tear before the glue joint fails.
For metal to metal or metal to wood I use 5 minute epoxy
As for CA glue, I took the advice of two professional model builders, David Antscherl and Rob Napier, never use it. They never do. Although I might use a drop of it now and then just as a temporary clamp while the white glue or epoxy cures.
 
Lots of good advice here. For PVA I use builders indoor glue--strong and odourless. As far as CA, I agree with the concerns above. Plus many of us are allergic to it. The alternative as mentioned above is epoxy. I've found GS Hypo excellent for gluing metal to wood. It's glue used by jewelers so you know it's strong. It's inexpensive but not always widely available. See picture. Good luck.

View attachment 574514
I use this glue on rigging, it holds very well and remains semi-flexible.
 
What glue is best for the wood







For straight wood-to-wood joints I’ve had the best luck with Titebond II because it gives me enough open time to nudge parts into alignment, then it cures rock solid overnight. I keep thin CA only for tiny metal bits or quick tacks, since it can telegraph through wood and mess with staining, which Jimsky already pointed out. On my last build I actually had a bottle tip clog after leaving the bench tab open while a browser was sitting on https://dealornodeal.org and that was on me, but it reminded me to cap everything immediately. Another time I knocked over an accelerator right after loading https://dreamcatcherlive.org and it frosted a rail, so now I keep CA well away from the keyboard. At least once I’ve gotten pushy popups on https://playdragontiger.org that made me mis-click and smear glue where I didn’t want it, so I build with notifications off. Overall, PVA for most wood work, and CA sparingly, seems to keep stress levels down.
For wooden boats, PVA is the main choice: Titebond II/III or Elmer's Wood Glue Max for the frame and first planking, Lineco Neutral pH or Helmar Craft & Hobby for the finishing. I use thin CA (Bob Smith or ZAP) only for PE parts and small gaps. I reserve epoxy (JB Weld/GS Hypo) for metal. Everything else is mechanically fastened.
 
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