Hi all again just having a cuppa while hoping you can help with a Easy Peasy question for you at least, what type of glue do recommend for glueing my ship model, iv been advised Uhu, glue stick or Pva and sometimes glueing the card before putting the paper on instaed of the paper first,or putting onto spare paper then transferring using a pin onto paper. So i was going to buy some small brushes and spreaders iv seen on ebay and using Pva glue. Stuck before i even start i hear you say, just want to get it right before i argue with the paper or blame the Dog.
What type of model? wood, paper, plastic for wood POF I glue the templates to the wood with UHU Stic its a glue stick type this allows easy removal of the template after its cut out. for gluing the model together I use Titebond III or Elmers Glue All white glue depends on what and where I'm using the glue some things you want a clear glue and the Elmers White glue dries clear the titebond III however has a brownish look to it when dry. I also use CA specifically from BSA I use Thin and extra thick and I use the accelerator with that glue when needed. PVA glue I have found is a mixable type it comes in powder form and is mixed with water I do like it for patterns however it has a shelf life which is very short so its best to mix only what you need. hope this helps
I think Barry is asking about glues for paper/card models.
just saw his Intro post after commenting on this one lol I have the same kit but have been unable to find 1mm cardstock for the frame parts anywhere. once I do find it though Ill be using PVA, White glue and CA for that build Barry
Yes also is the card you get when you order from Amazon that they use for wrapping for safety ok to use this to build the model ok to use
The carding you want depends on the thickness required in the plans for building the model so far looking at the plans you will want 1mm and .5 mm thick I found this on amazon for the 1mm stock its a tad over but should work fine https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HVZZ8H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
amazon should have stock that .5mm also but I haven't looked as I have a lot of that size from a paper company I go to for work they were nice to donate it to me because I fix there equipment often.
amazon should have stock that .5mm also but I haven't looked as I have a lot of that size from a paper company I go to for work they were nice to donate it to me because I fix there equipment often.
It seems to me (and I am totally ignorant about the paper part), that it would depend on what part you are making as to what weight of paper you would use.? ! ?
f.e., a Mast might be made of heavier stock. Or I guess the mast could be rolled to make a tighter tube... I don't know. I better just be quiet and leave the paper to the guys that know what they are doing.
As far as the glue goes, I did not know that there were so many types of glues until I went into my wife's hobby store where she works. There seems to be hundreds of ways and products to glue things. From glue sticks to glue guns.
f.e., a Mast might be made of heavier stock. Or I guess the mast could be rolled to make a tighter tube... I don't know. I better just be quiet and leave the paper to the guys that know what they are doing.
As far as the glue goes, I did not know that there were so many types of glues until I went into my wife's hobby store where she works. There seems to be hundreds of ways and products to glue things. From glue sticks to glue guns.
the card stock size is written on the plans sheet to build the model so far looking at the plans I have the sizes are 1mm and .5mm for just about everything you have to follow the plan and use what size they say for each part some parts get no carding at all.It seems to me (and I am totally ignorant about the paper part), that it would depend on what part you are making as to what weight of paper you would use.? ! ?
f.e., a Mast might be made of heavier stock. Or I guess the mast could be rolled to make a tighter tube... I don't know. I better just be quiet and leave the paper to the guys that know what they are doing.
As far as the glue goes, I did not know that there were so many types of glues until I went into my wife's hobby store where she works. There seems to be hundreds of ways and products to glue things. From glue sticks to glue guns.
Your so right about Glue there are tons different brands of the same type but brand X swears they make better glue then Brand Y the whole deal makes my head hurt just thinking about it. The glues I use are from experience in using those types in the situation and those glues were all recommendations at one point from other folks. Knowing all the different glues out there this made choosing easier and I later found they did what I needed them to do so I never changes to something else. Any wood glue will work with paper after all paper is wood. so In essence wood glue will build the whole model made of paper. that said certain parts your gonna want to stiffen up some wood glues don't dry hard on every surface some dry flexible so wouldn't serve the purpose to stiffen the object that's where CA comes in. it just depends on the needs sometimes you want flexible some times you don't.
Für Karton hat sich mir hier bewehrt. Ich weiß nur nicht, ob er von dir verfügbar ist. Ich habe gute Erfahrungen gemacht.
Translation by Uwek:
For cardboard I got good experience with this one. I do not know, if it is available in your country. I made good experience.
https://www.amazon.de/Kittifix-Qualtitäts-Klebstoff-75g-Papier-Textilien/dp/B000W4GE3G
Translation by Uwek:
For cardboard I got good experience with this one. I do not know, if it is available in your country. I made good experience.
https://www.amazon.de/Kittifix-Qualtitäts-Klebstoff-75g-Papier-Textilien/dp/B000W4GE3G
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This is one Beautiful ship. Nice clean looking work and the Paint works very well together with the wood
WOW that's amazing for being cardboard. I have the shipyard Victory I have been collecting card stock in the proper thickness for the build but I'll probably mix wood into the kit as well. I did buy the sail and mast kits for it also so ill probably do the decks in wood. I bought the kit with the idea in mind to use all the patterns for an all wood ship build, but I have a Victory wood kit and though it might be nice to just build it in the stock its supposed to be in. The biggest issue for me with the kit is I hate to cut stuff out with scissors so I have done the frame and its parts with a straight edge and hobby knife even that gets to me after a bit so I enlisted the help of my wife. she is a scissor using fool and cuts the parts out super quick as well as accurately.
For paper/cardstock modeling I primarily use Elmer's Glue All applied with toothpicks for control. I have tried many others like Aileen's but Elmer's works best for me. I have recently tried using Elmer's Xtreme for stronger joints. I only use CA occasionally for stiffening as I do not really like CA and it can stain the paper. I use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive for laminating. I have found that cereal boxes are quite stiff as are beer cartons depending on the size of parts.
Good discussion on glues ( see Jims discussion on his build of the CHARLES YACHT) that helped me TREMENDOSLY, I dislike using CA, for many reasons but find it more and more neccessary JIMS SUGESTION OF MERCURY ADHESVIES use the DOPLER for putting it to object has been a life saver so far, as for wood glues I have been using TITEBOND TRANS LUCENT GLUE, but it has given me problems in bonding it drys clear but do not get any on the surface almost impossible to get off if you are staining, it drys super fast almost to fast, I will continue to use it as a CLAMP FOR SOME CA to reinforce it, and I need to get some elmers white but that also presents a problem as you need clamps for it to set up oh well lol. Don
KITTIFIX!!!! Super product.
And I will add some comments from my experience.
When gluing cardboard / paper models, it is important whether the glue soaks into the paper or not.
1. Water-based adhesives soak into paper and can even change the dimensions of parts. After drying, such parts bend due to adhesive stress after the water has evaporated and are therefore not good for gluing large parts such as decks or frames (the frames should be perfectly flat)
However, such glues work great when gluing details. Just a drop or two on the edge of the glued part and it holds perfectly. It is good if such glue after drying is transparent. I used many typical wood adhesives, sometimes thinned them with water and I don't see big differences. Instead of wood adhesives, some modelers use bookbinding adhesive, although there are many types of such adhesives, and tests need to be done.
2. For large parts (eg sticking frames and decks to cardboard 0.5 or 1.0 mm, sticking planks), adhesives in which the solvent is not water are better. I have been using adhesive for ... rubber and leather for years (shoe adhesive). Unfortunately, this glue is not good for health and smells bad, but it works great when gluing cardboard models. Glue is applied to both surfaces and the parts are joined together after partially drying. "Polymer" adhesives work similarly, they dry a little longer and smell less, but they create very thin "threads" in the air and these "threads" can stick to the surface of the model. To reduce "threading", the polymer adhesive can be diluted with alcohol or a similar solvent.
3. Cyanoacrylate adhesive is useful for very small parts when you need an instant effect. The second advantage is the hardening of the cardboard, which can be sanded with a file or sandpaper almost like wood. Cyanoacrylate glue soaks deep into the cardboard, leaving stains, so usually you need to paint these parts later.
In my opinion, these three adhesives are sufficient when used skillfully.
Unfortunately, different brands are in different countries so you need to experiment a little.
Tomek
When gluing cardboard / paper models, it is important whether the glue soaks into the paper or not.
1. Water-based adhesives soak into paper and can even change the dimensions of parts. After drying, such parts bend due to adhesive stress after the water has evaporated and are therefore not good for gluing large parts such as decks or frames (the frames should be perfectly flat)
However, such glues work great when gluing details. Just a drop or two on the edge of the glued part and it holds perfectly. It is good if such glue after drying is transparent. I used many typical wood adhesives, sometimes thinned them with water and I don't see big differences. Instead of wood adhesives, some modelers use bookbinding adhesive, although there are many types of such adhesives, and tests need to be done.
2. For large parts (eg sticking frames and decks to cardboard 0.5 or 1.0 mm, sticking planks), adhesives in which the solvent is not water are better. I have been using adhesive for ... rubber and leather for years (shoe adhesive). Unfortunately, this glue is not good for health and smells bad, but it works great when gluing cardboard models. Glue is applied to both surfaces and the parts are joined together after partially drying. "Polymer" adhesives work similarly, they dry a little longer and smell less, but they create very thin "threads" in the air and these "threads" can stick to the surface of the model. To reduce "threading", the polymer adhesive can be diluted with alcohol or a similar solvent.
3. Cyanoacrylate adhesive is useful for very small parts when you need an instant effect. The second advantage is the hardening of the cardboard, which can be sanded with a file or sandpaper almost like wood. Cyanoacrylate glue soaks deep into the cardboard, leaving stains, so usually you need to paint these parts later.
In my opinion, these three adhesives are sufficient when used skillfully.
Unfortunately, different brands are in different countries so you need to experiment a little.
Tomek
For laminating thin paper on top of card of your choice I use a rattle can with spray glue.
For items that will be under stress, like landing gear or struts if making airplanes I sometimes use 2-components epoxy glue.
I always try to avoid water based glues.
For items that will be under stress, like landing gear or struts if making airplanes I sometimes use 2-components epoxy glue.
I always try to avoid water based glues.
HI
I would like to weigh in here. There is a big "paper" modeller community in Poland. Being polish I have my go with it in the past. Initially were using Butapren - nowadays known as contact adhesive ( like Gorilla brand). But now people using whats called paper glue:
like this one.
It is a clear, custard-like consistency. It makes the paper a little wet and softer - easier to bend and roll etc. Below my never to be finished IJN Yukikaze made with paper glue. the contact adhesive was used for bulkheads and deck.
CA glue is used to soak edges to make them sandable.
Here is a link to the polish forum. I think pictures sometimes are worth a thousand words.
I would like to weigh in here. There is a big "paper" modeller community in Poland. Being polish I have my go with it in the past. Initially were using Butapren - nowadays known as contact adhesive ( like Gorilla brand). But now people using whats called paper glue:
like this one.It is a clear, custard-like consistency. It makes the paper a little wet and softer - easier to bend and roll etc. Below my never to be finished IJN Yukikaze made with paper glue. the contact adhesive was used for bulkheads and deck.
CA glue is used to soak edges to make them sandable.
Here is a link to the polish forum. I think pictures sometimes are worth a thousand words.
That website is awesome, the Vindicator construction shots are amazing to bad I don't speak Polish. I have a 1/200 Arizona a little less completed than your Yukikaze