HI FROM TASMANIA

The Zap Z-Poxy is the only one I will use. My hulls are generally a combination of frame and bulkhead sheeted with 1/32 plywood. After filling any imperfections in the hulls with automotive spot putty and sanding down I cover the hull with 3/4 oz glass cloth, apply usually two coats of resin with a little more sanding and spot putty if needed, prime and paint. This method works well on my tugs, freighters, and military craft where a welded steal hull is represented. As to your other questions, return to the Great Hobbies site marine section and have a look at the running hardware kit for the DUMAS tug Brooklyn. I built this tug years ago and it performs flawlessly using that gear. In the future I may start switching my drives over to brushless motors.
 
The Zap Z-Poxy is the only one I will use. My hulls are generally a combination of frame and bulkhead sheeted with 1/32 plywood. After filling any imperfections in the hulls with automotive spot putty and sanding down I cover the hull with 3/4 oz glass cloth, apply usually two coats of resin with a little more sanding and spot putty if needed, prime and paint. This method works well on my tugs, freighters, and military craft where a welded steal hull is represented. As to your other questions, return to the Great Hobbies site marine section and have a look at the running hardware kit for the DUMAS tug Brooklyn. I built this tug years ago and it performs flawlessly using that gear. In the future I may start switching my drives over to brushless motors.
Many thanks!
 
Hi,
Just had my first experience with Z-Poxy.
What a great product this is. I am currently building the Anteo 2 from Mantua/Panart and decided to make the hull waterproof.
First I thought about using polyester, but with polyester there is a risk of not sticking to wood properly without the application of a primer.
After seeing a video on YouTube of modellers using Z-Poxy I decided to switch to that.
This is how I worked.
After sanding the hull with rather coarse sanding paper (I used grit 80) I took away the dust with a vacuum cleaner and applied a coat of Z-poxy with a flat brush on one half of the hull.
The Z-Poxy partially soaked into the wood and filled the small gaps between the planks.
Then I put down a fine glass fiber cloth (which I obtained from Hobby King). It soaked itself into the Z-Poxy. I used an old credit card to stretch out the cloth over the hull and take away any excess of resin. To swipe of the credit card I used kitchen paper with I immediately disposed into a bin just aside me.
I did not put any cloth over the keel, but cut it of using a sharp hobby knife just in the corner of the planks touching the keel.
The other side of the cloth I just left hanging over the edges as I decided to cut that after drying.
When dry I did the second half of the hull.
After drying I cut off the excess of cloth and sanded the hull.
When sanding I discovered some small voids under the cloth witch I removed using a razor blade and sanded it down a bit.
Then I applied a second coat of resin. Again just using a brush. I is a amazing how the resin stretches out and removes the brush traces.
Just sand it again and done.
I attached a picture of the hull after applying the cloth with the first coat of resin.

FirstCoating.jpg
 
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Nice job! As you say there is no reason to apply fiberglass cloth to the keel, rudder, and other difficult places. A couple coats of resin adequately seals them from water.
 
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