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I'll second that.
The advice on the vise was timely for me too
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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft
- Thread starter HMSFly
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The advice on the vise was timely for me too
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I wouldn’t worry about that break. A modern wood glue - Tite Bond III is my current favourite - will provide a sound repair. Use some parcel tape to cover a slab of solid timber, or 25 mm mdf, or the bit of plate glass you do your sharpening on. Make another tape covered cramp pad, then lay your part on the anvil, apply glue - only enough for minimum squeeze out, carefullly cover with the pad and use a decent cramp to apply pressure, always ensuring alignment as you do so. Practice doing so dry.
Clean up once the glue has dried. I allow 24 hours.
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What are you modelling?
Is the ship in transit - all ports closed
Having a spot of training - one side of one deck open, and lots of people standing around for the entertainment.
About to go into battle? A broadside loaded and all ports open?
Most of the time, most of the ports would be closed. Showing a model with all guns run out is impressive, but a bit false?
You show it the way that feels right to you.
J
This is a simple matter to replace. A similar toggle switch can be found on Temu.com or at any electronics store in your area. Once you have a new switch,replace the two electrical contacts with copper crimp terminal or spade connectors depending on the contact type on the leads going to the main switch housing or simply resolder the wires to the switch terminals directly. Very inexpensive fix but don't try and ruse the old switch!
I know some German and can read some Dutch. Does it work the other way around from Flemish to German?
Well, I have to admit that German is not a problem at all. My blessed mother was German...But I was mainly referring to the (technical) terms used, still unknown to me. So indeed an additional challenge.
I would wait until you can see what the difference is. If the gun port opening is big, and the dummy gun looks bad, then you can make a clear decision.
Today I added the Keel, Stem and Sternpost. I also started to fit the Bulkheads (Dry fit) which means a lot of fine sanding...
Next step will be cutting the rabbet...
Next step will be cutting the rabbet...
The mounting of the Bulkheads requires a lot of fine sanding. After all, the grooves in which the bulkheads have to be slid are not neatly sawn out evenly...but with bumps as can be seen in the photo.
Hi Marc!
Are you forming the rabbet before gluing on the keel? Probably easier to make the varying angle of the rabbet if done before gluing to the plywood back piece. With only the knee of the head and no actual stem on the kit model, cutting the rabbet at the bow is going to be interesting
Assuming the plans show the line of the rabbet where the stem would be, instead of tracing the line, can you scan the image in the kit? If you can, then you can print it in label paper then stick it on the wood and have a perfect curved line on the stem to cut the rabbet with a scalpel and chisels. You would need a mirror image as well for the opposite side, but easily doable. Just a thought.
Allan
Are you forming the rabbet before gluing on the keel? Probably easier to make the varying angle of the rabbet if done before gluing to the plywood back piece. With only the knee of the head and no actual stem on the kit model, cutting the rabbet at the bow is going to be interesting
Assuming the plans show the line of the rabbet where the stem would be, instead of tracing the line, can you scan the image in the kit? If you can, then you can print it in label paper then stick it on the wood and have a perfect curved line on the stem to cut the rabbet with a scalpel and chisels. You would need a mirror image as well for the opposite side, but easily doable. Just a thought. Allan
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Good ideaHi Marc!
Are you forming the rabbet before gluing on the keel? Probably easier to make the varying angle of the rabbet if done before gluing to the plywood back piece. With only the knee of the head and no actual stem on the kit model, cutting the rabbet at the bow is going to be interesting
Allan
View attachment 530632
Hello Alan,Hi Marc!
Are you forming the rabbet before gluing on the keel? Probably easier to make the varying angle of the rabbet if done before gluing to the plywood back piece. With only the knee of the head and no actual stem on the kit model, cutting the rabbet at the bow is going to be interesting
Allan
View attachment 530632
You're right (as always)
But there is a surprise:
nowhere in the instructions nor drawings is there a reference to providing the Rabbet!
If you look at the picture of the Bulkheads (Dry Fit) you will see that the bottom side (of the Bulkheads) touch the False Keel!
So there is consequently no place for the Rabbet, unless you provide it in the False Keel. And I think this is not the intention.
Just to be on the safe side I have installed the Rabbet, above the Flase Keel so that I have the necessary flexibility during the First Planking... But still strange.
