Looking good. I'm tending to favour PVA, but I'm still learning
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Totally agree with you. I try both an prefer PVa.
If you are interested in what the ship really looked like there are some contemporary drawings you may find interesting. For example, the two drawings by Pritchett and Martens show no anchor lining.
The stanchions may actually be cranes for hammocks.
Do you plan to paint or copper the bottom below the LWL?
Allan
The stanchions may actually be cranes for hammocks.
Do you plan to paint or copper the bottom below the LWL?
Allan
Steven,
If you want to use copper, at 1:60 (assuming that is the scale of your kit), copper tape is a good option. The plates on British ships were about 48" X 15" with a 1.5" overlap going on from the keel and working up. The nails used to attach them were very small so tiny pin prick can be used to simulate the nails. Many plates that can be purchased have giant rivet like bumps and are much too thick to look realistic. Painting a copper color was used on contemporary models so may be a choice if YOU like the look.
Based on the way the hull is planked it is a good idea to cover it with something. The planking on your model is the fault of the kit manufacturer, not yours. On a real ship, with the exception of a drop strake or two, the planks tapered from the dead flat to the stem to no less than half the full breadth so they could all end in the rabbet of the stem. They did not come to a point This is part of the learning curve but sadly OcCre, AL, and some others have the models planked incorrectly. Again, if it is to be covered, it is really not a concern. It is too late for this project but something to learn about for the future if this kind of thing is important to you. High quality kits usually have the planking done correctly and some even have spiled planks which makes things much easier. The picture below shows the difference better than words. If you study the Passaro Youtube four part video on planking you can see that it is not difficult to do.
Allan
If you want to use copper, at 1:60 (assuming that is the scale of your kit), copper tape is a good option. The plates on British ships were about 48" X 15" with a 1.5" overlap going on from the keel and working up. The nails used to attach them were very small so tiny pin prick can be used to simulate the nails. Many plates that can be purchased have giant rivet like bumps and are much too thick to look realistic. Painting a copper color was used on contemporary models so may be a choice if YOU like the look.
Based on the way the hull is planked it is a good idea to cover it with something. The planking on your model is the fault of the kit manufacturer, not yours. On a real ship, with the exception of a drop strake or two, the planks tapered from the dead flat to the stem to no less than half the full breadth so they could all end in the rabbet of the stem. They did not come to a point This is part of the learning curve but sadly OcCre, AL, and some others have the models planked incorrectly. Again, if it is to be covered, it is really not a concern. It is too late for this project but something to learn about for the future if this kind of thing is important to you. High quality kits usually have the planking done correctly and some even have spiled planks which makes things much easier. The picture below shows the difference better than words. If you study the Passaro Youtube four part video on planking you can see that it is not difficult to do.
Allan