HMS EURYALUS - 36 GUN 1:48 SCALE

Work on the rudder has stalled pending arrival of more brass strip, tube and rod. I did not have the right sizes on hand for the gudgeon pins/pintals.
Fashion pieces installed and the whole stern section given its preliminary fairing inside and out. Fashion pieces are still a little oversize so they can be "blended" into the rest of the frames as the go in. I have also used a little filler to help fair the joints (where tenons/mortices did not match tightly) or the beading line joint did not match. Have learned that I need to cut the fill frames closer to their faired shape before glueing in so I can fully see the joins.
I have started on the other can't frames. F31A sections is being glued up with their joining chocks as we speak. Frames 31F, 30A/F and 29A/F are templated and ready to scroll saw out.
The position of the can't frames on the deadwood have also been marked out in pencil.
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A day spent template ing and cutting framing pieces.....
I have made up half of F30A when I realised that F31A was the aft can't frame....
:)

I am leaving the frames a little oversized (not cut nor faired to the line) so I have wiggle room for fairing.
I have ordered up timber and threaded rods to make up the reference line board to support the frames as I proceed forward. Should pick up the bits tomorrow and spend the day cutting out the support board, lining it up on the building board then drill the support holes. Getting the plan on the reference board aligned with the building board will be undertaken before drilling the supports. More on that tomorrow.
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Inclement weather today made making up the reference board impossible (not something I can do inside the apartment). So I cut out all of yesterdays frames, sanded them up and them started on the Keelson components.
Keelsons sections #2, 3, 4 and 6 are all but finished and #6 fitted up to the aft deadwoods and Steronsom Knee (only dry fitted until all the frames are made and installed).
Keelson sections #1 and 5 are templated, just need scoring and fitting up to the other sections.
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Your work is looking very interesting -> means very good work on an interesting ship -> means maybe I should order for me also the books about the EURYALUS
Did you make the notches on the keelson by hand or with a mill?
Looking at your table we can see a lot of wooden chips, so I interpret by hand, or?
 
Uwek said:
Your work is looking very interesting -> means very good work on an interesting ship -> means maybe I should order for me also the books about the EURYALUS
Did you make the notches on the keelson by hand or with a mill?
Looking at your table we can see a lot of wooden chips, so I interpret by hand, or?
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The books are great and all the plans are excellent, but Volume 1 is sold out. Maik from Sea Watch answered my question last summer and said that he was already planning to reprint part 1.
 
Tobias said:
The books are great and all the plans are excellent, but Volume 1 is sold out. Maik from Sea Watch answered my question last summer and said that he was already planning to reprint part 1.
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It is making less sense to have only Vol II available - so I can hope that Seawatch will reprint also the first Volume .... many Thanks for the information
 
Uwek said:
Your work is looking very interesting -> means very good work on an interesting ship -> means maybe I should order for me also the books about the EURYALUS
Did you make the notches on the keelson by hand or with a mill?
Looking at your table we can see a lot of wooden chips, so I interpret by hand, or?
Click to expand...
All by hand. Using side template, I score with a scalpel then saw with an ultra fine razor saw (70+tpi) then chisel with 4mm wide chisel. Finally cleaning up with a 6 or 8mm wide diamond file. I do have a mini mill but I like working by hand when I can. Very therapeutic…. :)
The photo shot the tools. The razor saw has seen better days; the kinks make life difficult and I have some more blades on order. The chunkier of the squares (which has an edges chamfered to a point) is used to test whether the notches are cut and filed perpendicular to the sides of the timbers. I use the light behind the straight edge technique....

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Uwek said:
It is making less sense to have only Vol II available - so I can hope that Seawatch will reprint also the first Volume .... many Thanks for the information
Click to expand...
The books are available on the second hand market: Amazon has one set of V0l 1 an 2 for $350 used in very good condition.

2 Volumes: Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS Euryalus (36) 1803 : A Plank on Frame Model Vol I & II: Yedlinsky, Allan (Text) and Kempson, Wayne (Plans): 9780982057995: Amazon.com: Books

2 Volumes: Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS Euryalus (36) 1803 : A Plank on Frame Model Vol I & II [Yedlinsky, Allan (Text) and Kempson, Wayne (Plans)] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. 2 Volumes: Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS Euryalus (36) 1803 : A Plank on Frame Model Vol I & II
www.amazon.com
 
Wow, 2 days and I managed to print and cut out all the aft frame templates and get about 1/5 onto timber ready to saw.
I guess this is the tedious part of fully framed model ships... that and trying to peal off the backing on the self adhesive label material.....
Next job is to sort the templates into the appropriate material thickness piles before working out the best way to fit on the Cherry material.

Jigsaw arrived this afternoon so I will charge it and then cut out the reference board.

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Ja Ja - that is scratch POF modeling ......
I suggest to start first with the cutting out with one board and your new saw as a test.
You have to check, if the distance of the frame parts glued on the board is maybe not to small.
Sometimes it is easier to cut and handle when you have more distance between the elements - you need maybe more wood, but cutting out is faster and easier.
Are you using a jigsaw or a scroll saw for cutting the Frame elements?
 
Uwek said:
Ja Ja - that is scratch POF modeling ......
I suggest to start first with the cutting out with one board and your new saw as a test.
You have to check, if the distance of the frame parts glued on the board is maybe not to small.
Sometimes it is easier to cut and handle when you have more distance between the elements - you need maybe more wood, but cutting out is faster and easier.
Are you using a jigsaw or a scroll saw for cutting the Frame elements?
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That's the luxury of the Dremel scroll saw. The blades have a 0.5mm kerf. This means it takes a little longer than using a full size scroll saw but I have much less wastage and can get close to the lines without resorting to the fine blade which I have found wanders too easily. It also means that in many cases, I only have to make one cut for one side of two frames which also saves time. It takes about an hour and one blade per plank which vary from 5.8 to 7.4mm thick (a scale 11"" to 14").
The blades do get hot cutting the cherry and fatigue if I run continuously for more than 30 minutes. I cut for 10mins take a 5min break then continue but by the end of the hour, the blade really starts to take its own direction (as it gets blunt) ... :). Thankfully I have 15 spares on hand.
I have already cut out 2 of the 11 boards (yep got all the templates stuck down last night) for the aft frames with one blade failure. The second is getting a little blunt but I will continue with it until it slows or wanders.
 
peter6172 said:
That's the luxury of the Dremel scroll saw. The blades have a 0.5mm kerf. This means it takes a little longer than using a full size scroll saw but I have much less wastage and can get close to the lines without resorting to the fine blade which I have found wanders too easily. It also means that in many cases, I only have to make one cut for one side of two frames which also saves time. It takes about an hour and one blade per plank which vary from 5.8 to 7.4mm thick (a scale 11"" to 14").
The blades do get hot cutting the cherry and fatigue if I run continuously for more than 30 minutes. I cut for 10mins take a 5min break then continue but by the end of the hour, the blade really starts to take its own direction (as it gets blunt) ... :). Thankfully I have 15 spares on hand.
I have already cut out 2 of the 11 boards (yep got all the templates stuck down last night) for the aft frames with one blade failure. The second is getting a little blunt but I will continue with it until it slows or wanders.
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Sounds interesting - I never tried it in this way.
Maybe you can show us some photos ?
 
I finally managed to get all the templates for the aft section of EURALUS peeled and stuck to the appropriate thickness cherry planks. I have also managed to get the reference board cut, drilled and mounted to the building board. Some weeks to do at each end is all that remains but I can get onto frame assembly and dry fitting to the keel now.

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dockattner said:
Just curious Peter - are all the cherry panels the same thickness? Scarf joints? Chocks? Butt joints? I'm working on my first POF and I'm in learning mode...

BTW, your picture makes me a bit nauseous just thinking about how much work that is ROTF. Respect to all the scratch builders out there!
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Nope. They are all scale thickness from 11"" to 14" and some 1/2" in between. This does not mean that all the futtocks on the one frame are the same thickness. In fact most frames have floors, futtocks and top timbers all different thicknesses and which side they align varies depending on where in the hull the frame is located.
The scarf joints (all chocked joints) vary depending on the position of the frame in the hull. As we go further forward or aft, these chocks are cut in at an angle equivalent to the bevel so it gets a bit complex as one moves away from midships.
There are no butt joints in this model. All the joints including those with the floors (or the chock that rests on the rising wood) are scarfed. Once glued they will be fitted with number of 1mm bamboo treenails so I need to start making them by the bucket load.
 
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