HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30

I will make two test pieces, one with oil and one with shellac french polished.
Different oil on the same wood surface may give you various results. I use steel wool (0000, 4 zeros) and rub between the oil coats. However, you are correct! The only ways to know for sure - is to try. :)
 
A brief update on my deck progress. The deck is half finished with planking. Now it is time fore treenailing this part. Same as for the hull I use beech wood toothpicks. The holes drilled at 0.7mm followed by colouring the edges of the holes with a 2B pencil.
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Now glueing the toothpicks, for this I use a very small droplet of ca.
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Then after the ca is dry I cut the with a nose cutting plier. Followed by sanding and scraping. Finall finish I do when the other half is also finished.
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Thats it for now.
Start on the second half.
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All I can say is that here is a perfect example of what experience can do for a build! You have had mentioned CA uses for toothpicks. How is the wood reacts? Will glue soak into the wood and leave clogged surface? I can assume that graphite will hold the glue to the deck planks, but how about the actual treenail (toothpick)?
 
Hi Jim,

I use a thick ca to avoid it to soak fully into the tooth pick. See picture zoomed in below for the result, no clogging appears allthough the wood is becoming slightly darker. I have considered to use titebond but I was happy with the ca result in combination with the graphite and it works quick and clean.
When using a marker instead of graphite then the ca will dilute the marker and spoil the surface.
 
G'day Maarten
I'm catching up on your log only after a week or so and wow, I have missed a huge amount. All I can say:
Another example of esquith craftsmanship.
The way you have done your planking is, or will be, why each modeler's methods make his build unique from others.
I'm planning to do the standard way that I always do my planking, which is different from yours in a few ways.
The first is that I going to put a king plank running down the centre of the RC.
The next thing that I found best is to curve the planking along and to follow the waterways up to a certain point where is is impossible to bend the plank any further. Then I'll do something like the following diagramme.
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The best way to explain my method is to show you the planking on the
HMB ENDEAVOUR
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Note the curvature of the plankings

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I really don't know which method are correct, but as I have said before, this is my standard deck planking method and the results looks good.
Sorry to take over your log mate.
 
Hi Greg,

Many thx for your example which looks great. For the time period both options could have been used. A kings plank would look great but I cant confirm that these were already in use in the first half of the 18th century, maybe Uwe has some reference on this.
I love the curved planks but I think this will be difficult to realize as this main deck is veneer and veneer is difficult to bend around a horizontal radius as it then will create a bubbled surface.
This is why I selected the joggling into the margin plank. Choices choices choices :-).
 
Hi Greg,

Many thx for your example which looks great. For the time period both options could have been used. A kings plank would look great but I cant confirm that these were already in use in the first half of the 18th century, maybe Uwe has some reference on this.
I love the curved planks but I think this will be difficult to realize as this main deck is veneer and veneer is difficult to bend around a horizontal radius as it then will create a bubbled surface.
This is why I selected the joggling into the margin plank. Choices choices choices :).
I have done bending venee around a slight bend on the past and the result are quite good. The only time consuming part is the bruising the venee only on one side to make it bend easier.
That is why I stated in my previous log that I do it up to a point where it's impossible to bend any more.
The only trouble is that you waste a lot of planks trying to bruise them. Too much the plank will break, not enough, it wouldn't bend.
You are correct when you say choices, choices, choices!
 
Today I finalized the deck. First the second half was planked.
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Followed by treenailing, scraping and sanding.
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After all this finishing I decided not to go for shellac but as advised by @Jimsky for an oil finish. I already used this for the floor in the Kings dayroom and the surface is matt so OK to use on the deck.
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This is the oil I use, it is a monocoat parquet floor oil.
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With this you create a beautiful rich colour and keep the wood structure and poures clearly visible.
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This is the end result of the treenailing zoomed in.
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Now is is time for sanding the oiled deck with steel wool before applying a second layer.

To all a fantastic new year in good health and lots of happy modeling hours.
 
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