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HMS Sovereign of the Seas - Bashing DeAgostini Beyond Believable Boundaries

Many of the 3-D objects I've made so far willl not print well because the details are too fine for the resin printer. Reworking the objects using the Basify tool to reform the objects into base reliefs may help. It takes a 3-D object and extrudes it into a new mesh. For example, the Irish harp badge on the beakhead was printed by @WojtasS but the harp strings did not print because they were too fine. Compare the original object on the top left with the newly formed base relief on the bottom right. The strings are extruded vertically and should print now. Attached is the new 3-D object if anyone wants to test print it.
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Many of the 3-D objects I've made so far willl not print well because the details are too fine for the resin printer. Reworking the objects using the Basify tool to reform the objects into base reliefs may help. It takes a 3-D object and extrudes it into a new mesh. For example, the Irish harp badge on the beakhead was printed by @WojtasS but the harp strings did not print because they were too fine. Compare the original object on the top left with the newly formed base relief on the bottom right. The strings are extruded vertically and should print now. Attached is the new 3-D object if anyone wants to test print it.
View attachment 533433
At this angle the only difference my untrained eye detects is that the modified one looks a bit thicker, and I think I get why that results in cleaner printing of the strings. I wonder if a gentle hit on a belt sander (fine grit) could be used to get it back to the originally intended thickness (or close to it).
 
Many of the 3-D objects I've made so far willl not print well because the details are too fine for the resin printer. Reworking the objects using the Basify tool to reform the objects into base reliefs may help. It takes a 3-D object and extrudes it into a new mesh. For example, the Irish harp badge on the beakhead was printed by @WojtasS but the harp strings did not print because they were too fine. Compare the original object on the top left with the newly formed base relief on the bottom right. The strings are extruded vertically and should print now. Attached is the new 3-D object if anyone wants to test print it.
View attachment 533433
What diameter are the strings at scale?
I have successfully printed parts with a diameter of .010-.015” on my resin printer.
The orientation of the part is crucial, due to supports and not creating any islands (areas within a sliced section not attached and not having supports). This part would need to be oriented with the strings vertical or at an angle to avoid needing supports. In addition if printed horizontal they would fail. And that failure would not be a result of the size, but rather due to the orientation of the part. ;)
 
What diameter are the strings at scale?
I have successfully printed parts with a diameter of .010-.015” on my resin printer.
The orientation of the part is crucial, due to supports and not creating any islands (areas within a sliced section not attached and not having supports). This part would need to be oriented with the strings vertical or at an angle to avoid needing supports. In addition if printed horizontal they would fail. And that failure would not be a result of the size, but rather due to the orientation of the part. ;)
True, orientation is a big factor, especially for thin sections of a 3-D print. When I get to the printing stage, there will be lots of experimentation in getting proper prints of these 3-D models. Various methods of creating supports for printing will need to be learned when the printing phase of this model is reached. Until then, making 3-D models in blender will continue.
 
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At this angle the only difference my untrained eye detects is that the modified one looks a bit thicker, and I think I get why that results in cleaner printing of the strings. I wonder if a gentle hit on a belt sander (fine grit) could be used to get it back to the originally intended thickness (or close to it).
Only the sides that surround the harps are a bit thicker. The thickness at the harp and at the crown are about the same. Sure, you could carefully thin the printed object on a sanding block a bit, but the part will be small and delicate. How the printed part will appear when laid onto the hull and how its thickness compares to the moldings and columns that surround it has yet to be seen. Certainly adjustments can be made and the part re-printed until you get the desired appearance.
 
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