Homemade wood filler

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What are your thoughts on Homemade wood filler, wood glue + sawdust. Your favorite recipe?
 
I dont have a recipe perse, but I do almost exclusively use sawdust and paste. I dont use white glue, paste dries hard and sands much better than the white glue which has too much plasticizer in it. I just mix until it looks the right consistency - which I suppose isnt helpful. Drier than toothpaste, but not as dry as spackle? ha.
 
I have been using white wood glue and black graphite from a pencil, mixed into a paste for filling dark timber like ebony and African blackwood with great results.
I have on many occasions used the wood dust of boxwood and white glue for filling boxwood, but I reckon a pine coloured timber filler is less obvious.
 
Yo
I have been using white wood glue and black graphite from a pencil, mixed into a paste for filling dark timber like ebony and African blackwood with great results.
I have on many occasions used the wood dust of boxwood and white glue for filling boxwood, but I reckon a pine coloured timber filler is less obvious.
You can buy black wood glue

 
INTERESTING TOPIC, THINKING ABOUT THIS AS I ALWAYS HAVE A PROBLEM AROUND THE TURN OF THE BILGE WITH GETTING A GAP BETWEEN PLANKS IN THE PAST I HAVE USED SAW DUST AND DILUTED WHITE GLUE AS A FILLER, BIG, BIG PROBLEM IS I USE TUNG OIL FOR A FINISH AND IT BECOMES STREAKY REALLY BAD AND UGLY, I HAVE NOT TRIED PASTE WHAT KIND OF PASTE AND HOW WILL OIL WORK ON IT, ANY OTHER SUGESTIONS. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
I use epoxy and microballs. After curing easy to sand. If you add methyl alcohol, it becomes even more soft . Model airplane people are using this with balsawood, because of lightness and softness.
 
Don,
I can recommend a few timber fillers, but they are Australian made. You might be best to ask Dave Stevens. What timber are you filling my friend ?
 
HI BRIAN IT WI, COMBINATION ON PLANKING LOWER PLANKING WESTERN NRED CEDAR, UPPER -PLANKING PADUCK, ALSO PLANKS ARE VISABLE BOTH SIDES ( EXTERIOR AND INTERIOUR), WILL TRY ASKING DAVE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Thank you all for your replies, I do have some questions.
Filling Basswood or Boxwood. My first build is a Midwest Peterboro Canoe. Have just finished planking & have a few gaps to fill.
Ophotn, what type of paste are you using?
Moxis, epoxy I know. What are microballs?
Thanks again too you all, stay safe.
Stu
 
Bondo with white hardener is actually stainable.
the Paint shop where I worked came up with this way before minwax packaged it.
 
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Moxis, epoxy I know. What are microballs?

Hello StuG, microballs are microscopic glass particles, almost like dust. You can mix them with epoxy and get filler which you can compare with fibreglass. One of the benefits of this stuff is that you can control the consistency of the stuff from almost "water" (very little microballs) to thick stuff (lot of microballs). Very often I make a youghurt-like filler paste of it, which when curing is smoothing by itself or filling small grooves very easily. And after curing it is soft like wood so when you sand it, it will sand easily like wood around it and not like many 2 component "plastic padding" products which are hard as a stone.

By the way StuG, does your nickname mean Sturmgeschutz, which was a German assault gun during the second world war? A few years ago I made a model of this tank in scale 1/6.
 
I used wood glue and saw dust to fill some nasty holes in an antique table made out of Australian red cedar wood about 30 years ago. I used the sawdust left over from when I sanded the table top. The filler is hard to spot and the table still looks magnificent.
 
TO SEA BURD, IS THE PAST WAX BY MIN-WAX IS THAT WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT, IN ALL THE METHODS ABOVE, HOW DO THE PRODUCTS REACT TO A TUNG OIL FINISH. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Hello StuG, microballs are microscopic glass particles, almost like dust. You can mix them with epoxy and get filler which you can compare with fibreglass. One of the benefits of this stuff is that you can control the consistency of the stuff from almost "water" (very little microballs) to thick stuff (lot of microballs). Very often I make a youghurt-like filler paste of it, which when curing is smoothing by itself or filling small grooves very easily. And after curing it is soft like wood so when you sand it, it will sand easily like wood around it and not like many 2 component "plastic padding" products which are hard as a stone.

By the way StuG, does your nickname mean Sturmgeschutz, which was a German assault gun during the second world war? A few years ago I made a model of this tank in scale 1/6.
Thank you Moxis. Would it also be possible to add sawdust to match the color of the wood?
No, just my name & last initial.
 
I have to say as a guy who has made a LOT of furniture that you cannot beat using sawdust mixed with glue to hide/fix imperfections. The wood fillers you can buy are “ok” but fall short of blending in perfectly. Think about it: the commercial filler is foreign to the wood whereas the sawdust was already part of the wood before being sanded off. Go light on the glue and the results will be excellent.
 
TO SEA BURD, IS THE PAST WAX BY MIN-WAX IS THAT WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT, IN ALL THE METHODS ABOVE, HOW DO THE PRODUCTS REACT TO A TUNG OIL FINISH. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don

im not sure on a oil finish with the Minwax filler there Don, , it’s just bondo, we used the gray bondo with white hardener to fix say a mashed corner, a guy would airbrushthe finish on, or stain it to match. I worked at a Display shop.
 
WHAT ABOUT IF YOU USE OIL AS A FINISH, MINE STEAKED SO BAD JUST UGHLY SPOILED A NICE MODEL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
Sorry. Not sure how to answer that. Once the repair is made, sanded and allowed to dry the type of finish should not matter. If done properly the “wound” in the wood will never be seen or noticed. The finish applied over it simply seals it.
 
WHAT ABOUT IF YOU USE OIL AS A FINISH, MINE STEAKED SO BAD JUST UGHLY SPOILED A NICE MODEL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
Hello Don, not all wood fillers are stainable (can adapt stain), also, fillers cannot accept oils. The nature of oils is to penetrate the wood. Putty or filler are polymers, they will not allow penetrating, This is why I think you have spots (where oil cannot penetrate).
 
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