I need a table saw expert

I found that blades I have are not that sturdy when cutting harder woods. The "wander" sideways regardless of the perfect fence location. I believe this is because they are made of mild steel with carbide teeth welded to it. Too much flex on the blade. Whole blade must be HSS and thick enough not to tend to wander sideways.
 
I don’t use these very “coarse” blades on my Byrnes saw. I am blessed with the space to own a full sized table saw with plenty of power and use it whenever possible.

Have you checked MicroMark! They sell a saw similar to the Proxxon and they sell blades separately.

Roger
 
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Don Case said:
I have a little table saw that I made that I mostly use for cutting planks. It has a 4" 80 tooth blade and turns at 3450 rpm. Up until recently it has worked quite well but now It seems to want to cut tapered planks. If I am cutting ,040" planks it will start out cutting .040" but at the end of an 8" plank it will taper out to almost nothing. I am holding the work against the fence as tight as I can but it wants to move away from the fence I think. I clamp the front of the fence with vice grips so at least the front of the fence isn't moving. I've tried adjusting the fence but I'm not sure which way to go or if that is even the right thing to do. Any Ideas?

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I use a Delta 10'' table top band saw -- blades are thin, so you can cut just about any dimensions. I also have made a jig that mounts to base. I have used wood paint sticks for various models . Can cut so thin you can almost see thru the wood. Not much waste ,just sawdust.
 
YT, This AM I found an ad from MicroMark on my EMail. They offer a 3-1/4” 80 tooth blade with a 10mm arbor hole. Tooth pattern like the slitting saw that I show in my post. Price $29.98 US.

gk. Yes, I agree, it’s all in the blade (and the fence). With the right blade and aligned fence a full sized table saw can produce dimensioned wood for building a POF model. Harold Hahn built his lovely models using a Craftsman 8” table saw.

Roger
 
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Don Case said:
I have a little table saw that I made that I mostly use for cutting planks. It has a 4" 80 tooth blade and turns at 3450 rpm. Up until recently it has worked quite well but now It seems to want to cut tapered planks. If I am cutting ,040" planks it will start out cutting .040" but at the end of an 8" plank it will taper out to almost nothing. I am holding the work against the fence as tight as I can but it wants to move away from the fence I think. I clamp the front of the fence with vice grips so at least the front of the fence isn't moving. I've tried adjusting the fence but I'm not sure which way to go or if that is even the right thing to do. Any Ideas?

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It sounds like the fence isn't parallel to the blade ie wider at the back of the blade.
 
Roger Pellett said:
YT, This AM I found an ad from MicroMark on my EMail. They offer a 3-1/4” 80 tooth blade with a 10mm arbor hole. Tooth pattern like the slitting saw that I show in my post. Price $29.98 US.
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You mean this one? For some reason they say it fits Proxxon Chop Saw. They do not say anything of table saw. But by the size looks as it must fit my saw. Are not teeth shaped too tall on this blade? I am afraid the teeth are alternately bent sideways. Do you think it will work better than Proxxon carbide 36 teeth blade?

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First Question: I don’t know.

Second Question: It appears to be a better choice than the blade that you’re using.

MicroMark is often cagey about mentioning competitors products that will work with their products. Here, they are trying to sell it as an accessory to their $400;saw.

An awful lot of this stuff is buying a pig in a poke; you have to try it and see. As long as it fits your saw, and the diameter and arbor size seem to be correct, it could cut something.

Roger
 
It looks as the teeth are alternately bent sideways so it will not be as a slitting saw milling tool. Is it going to be detrimental?
 
That’s called “set.” The purpose is to cut a kerf wider than the blade. This helps to keep the saw from binding. Slitting blades do not have set, which makes them harder to use, but when paired with precision equipment like a Byrnes Saw they and careful technique they can make beautiful cuts.

A blade with set is easier to use but will not produce the smooth edges of the slitting blades.

Roger
 
Thanks! I need smooth woodwork cutting surfaces so looks like no current table saw blade is able to provide what I want. I will use table saw only for rough cuts and smooth on thickness sander.
 
gk the builder said:
I use a Delta 10'' table top band saw -- blades are thin, so you can cut just about any dimensions. I also have made a jig that mounts to base. I have used wood paint sticks for various models . Can cut so thin you can almost see thru the wood. Not much waste ,just sawdust.
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band saw does a great job for rip cuts.
but if you have a dull blade it will cause it to drift to one side... as if cutting a radius.

sharp blades make a big difference with any saw.
 
Found a good saw blade to try on my Proxxon FET. Almost placed an order for it but started to think of it after reading the review below. Its only one really bad review. Other 60 reviews were actually a good reviews. What do you guys think of it?

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Could be a bad batch. Do you think I can buy some of these and try something as hitting them gently with the hammer to ensure it will not break when I put them in my table saw?
 
Metallurgy labs test for hardness to verify heat treatment. The blade that failed would have been glass hard and possibly with an invisible crack when the guy got it.

You can run some primitive QC checks. First, hardness is tested by using a punch of known diameter to create a small impression. Its diameter is then measured under magnification. You can run a qualitative version of this same test by testing several areas with a prick punch. If the punch fails to make a small indentation the blade is probably too hard.

To test for cracks, coat the blades with VERY thin coating; ink, DyChem LaYout blue, etc. Let it dry, then wipe it off with a damp solvent coated rag. Lightly dust the blade with the finest ground powder you can find. Any dye left in cracks should bleed into the powder.

ROger
 
I ordered a couple of triangle stones to try and they arrived today. They are very soft. Just a couple of strokes across the blade and there is a groove in the stone. It may work but is there something in particular I should be looking for?
 
The other test is to suspend the saw on a string and tap it gently. It should ring like a gong. If any of a batch sound different then they should be set aside for close examination.
 
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