• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

I need to vent☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

That's a great idea! We can build a databased of known instruction and drawing errors. I have one for the Corel La Couronne right off the top of my head.
Hi
I own the Corel la Couronne kit but I didn’t start to build now because I am building the Dolphyn from Corel at the moment . I think it is good to know what error the Corel’s la Couronne has before starting to built it.Thanks in advance for your answer ‍☠️
 
I have visited sites ( rc related) that actually have manufacturers support for there related products..
so if your having issues with your saito engine you go to there product support forum. I have seen company reps respond directly as they monitor the site.....good business!!!
would any of kit makers be interested in having a support page to help customers of there products? Sorry.. don't know how fix font
 
Last edited:
Mistakes in my models...I try to catch them as I go, then I find more accurate plans or old paintings, and if I haven't caught them in time, I just let them go. Drives me crazy, but there are so many errors in documentation out there that if you let it get to you then your progression of skills will not develop as an organic process. I hate my earlier models, but my later ones please me, mistakes and all, because my feel for modeling ships is more seasoned now. I am not after historical perfection but rather a beautiful impression that approaches historicity. This works for me but may not satisfy others. Whatever "floats your boat!"
 
I like this idea, there's one caveat however, how do you weigh in the price/quality ratio?
The higher the price, the higher my expectations of the quality of the kit.
The reverse is, obviously, also true. When buying a 100 dollar kit for instance, one cannot expect a very accurate kit; a lot of research will be required and customizations will be commonplace, if one is inclined to build a more or less accurate model. Or just build the kit as is.
Still, having a list of kits, with a list of errata added, would be quite helpful.
Boy, THAT is a can of worms. We all assume that as price increases, the amount of research that makes a kit be accurate would go up in proportion. We also expect nice hardwoods in expensive kits. Both are often not true, and like buying a used car, you have to measure each kit and rate it on several factors. You can make all the categories you want; drawing clarity, drawing detail, drawing accuracy, wood quality, decoration material and quality, etc. Things also vary not only between manufacturers, but among the kits they manufacture. Thus, there is no best manufacture. Before buying a kit, you have to get your priorities defined as to what you care about most/least. Most kits are fair on accuracy, and none are spot on, and all can benefit from you adding some details to make it better. Why are some kits way off the mark accuracy-wise? Usually to keep costs down because research costs time and money. ALL kit makers want to make money. Some make poorly detailed kits, others use only basswood for materials.

How do you determine if a kit is accurate? (You won't like this . . ) RESEARCH. It costs you time and money. You read forums, buy books, use the internet, and pay for all the time and effort that a kit was shorted. If you have high standards, you take a kit and radically correct it with changes from your research. Some with skills and experience with drafting, engineering, hand crafting, and wood working go right to scratch building from plans. The easiest route is to buy a kit and bash the hell out of it. You make all the changes as you build.

Perhaps Donnie can figure a way we can each add to a spreadsheet that lists specific kits by name that we can start adding comments on errors found on kit drawings as a start. From there, oversimplifications found in a kit can be listed with suggestions for adding details which enhance the accuracy of a kit. Such changes could be listed by difficulty, easy, moderate, and hard to perform. The database would be large enough just containing comments on errors alone.

I'll start...

Corel's La Couronne 1:100 scale
These belaying pins do not agree between the side and top views on the drawing. Which one is correct? No one knows, so take a guess. Belaying pins were not used to this extent on railings in the 1630's, so a more accurate guess involves tying the lines to the railing directly.
1656784650615.png
 
My suggestion about a log of kit errors seems to have become elaborate. If too complicated (e.g. discussions of historical accuracy) it might become more difficult to search than the build logs. All I had in mind was something simple of the form:
Good Ship Venus. Caldercoramati boats. Figurehead incomplete.
 
Después de mucho trabajo en las velas de mi modelo (Amati Hunter Q-ship) me doy cuenta de que la hoja para hacer las velas es incorrecta.
Kit tiene planos para cada vela... ¡Pero una de las velas está mal en comparación con el dibujo superior a escala completa que muestra las velas en el barco! El dibujo de la vela muestra un gran foque volador y otras dos velas del mismo patrón, el foque y el estay de proa.
En el dibujo superior las tres velas son de diferente tamaño??? Así que 1 de cada 3 velas es chatarra.
No quedó material de vela... sin mencionar el tiempo que dediqué a hacer una mala vela. ¿Cómo es posible que un error como ese no haya sido corregido a estas alturas?
Escribe a Amati y seguro que te envían las 3 velas bien hechas. Hay que reclamar!!!
 
My suggestion about a log of kit errors seems to have become elaborate. If too complicated (e.g. discussions of historical accuracy) it might become more difficult to search than the build logs. All I had in mind was something simple of the form:
Good Ship Venus. Caldercoramati boats. Figurehead incomplete.
The error log could be as simple or complicated as it takes to describe the error. If the description fails to specific enough, it won't help.
 
Boy, THAT is a can of worms. We all assume that as price increases, the amount of research that makes a kit be accurate would go up in proportion. We also expect nice hardwoods in expensive kits. Both are often not true, and like buying a used car, you have to measure each kit and rate it on several factors. You can make all the categories you want; drawing clarity, drawing detail, drawing accuracy, wood quality, decoration material and quality, etc. Things also vary not only between manufacturers, but among the kits they manufacture. Thus, there is no best manufacture. Before buying a kit, you have to get your priorities defined as to what you care about most/least. Most kits are fair on accuracy, and none are spot on, and all can benefit from you adding some details to make it better. Why are some kits way off the mark accuracy-wise? Usually to keep costs down because research costs time and money. ALL kit makers want to make money. Some make poorly detailed kits, others use only basswood for materials.

How do you determine if a kit is accurate? (You won't like this . . ) RESEARCH. It costs you time and money. You read forums, buy books, use the internet, and pay for all the time and effort that a kit was shorted. If you have high standards, you take a kit and radically correct it with changes from your research. Some with skills and experience with drafting, engineering, hand crafting, and wood working go right to scratch building from plans. The easiest route is to buy a kit and bash the hell out of it. You make all the changes as you build.

Tal vez Donnie pueda encontrar una forma en que cada uno de nosotros pueda agregar a una hoja de cálculo que enumere los kits específicos por nombre y que podamos comenzar a agregar comentarios sobre los errores encontrados en los dibujos de los kits como un comienzo. A partir de ahí, se pueden enumerar las simplificaciones excesivas encontradas en un kit con sugerencias para agregar detalles que mejoren la precisión de un kit. Dichos cambios podrían enumerarse por dificultad, fácil, moderado y difícil de realizar. La base de datos sería lo suficientemente grande solo para contener comentarios sobre errores.

Yo empezare...

Corel's La Couronne escala 1:100
Estos pasadores de seguridad no concuerdan entre las vistas lateral y superior del dibujo. ¿Cuál es el correcto? Nadie lo sabe, así que adivina. Los pasadores de seguridad no se usaban hasta este punto en las barandillas en la década de 1630, por lo que una suposición más precisa consiste en atar las cuerdas a la barandilla directamente.
View attachment 316779
Me parece una idea excelente. A mis 78 años estoy intentando acabar con un Cutty Sark y un vaporcito español, el HIDRIA II, que era un algibe para llevar agua. Actualmente está reformado y hace cruceros turísticos por la costa gallega. Tiene base en Grao (Galicia-España).
No trabajo con kits desde hace tiempo, me lo hago todo yo y donde mi habilidad no llega, pido ayuda a mis amigos.
 
AHA.... a topic on sails. Seeing that we are talking about historical accuracy and all I would like to discuss this; the weight of the cloth itself. If you consider
the scale you are working in it is my opinion that most of the cloth supplied is too thick (or heavy). A much finer quality would be more realistic, easier to work with and drape properly, to match the scale of the model. Many builders just opt for bare masts for these reasons.
 
Wow.....so many replies and opinions.....when I started this I was basically complaining about mistakes not fixed by Amati after years of kit production.
A simple insert supplied with kit showing corrections shows company at least cares about consumers of there kits. About the design of the kit being to correct scale or accurate that's over my head at this time.
Thanks again for all the help....that's what it's all about, especially if the hobby is to grow...
 
Boy, THAT is a can of worms. We all assume that as price increases, the amount of research that makes a kit be accurate would go up in proportion. We also expect nice hardwoods in expensive kits. Both are often not true, and like buying a used car, you have to measure each kit and rate it on several factors. You can make all the categories you want; drawing clarity, drawing detail, drawing accuracy, wood quality, decoration material and quality, etc. Things also vary not only between manufacturers, but among the kits they manufacture. Thus, there is no best manufacture. Before buying a kit, you have to get your priorities defined as to what you care about most/least. Most kits are fair on accuracy, and none are spot on, and all can benefit from you adding some details to make it better. Why are some kits way off the mark accuracy-wise? Usually to keep costs down because research costs time and money. ALL kit makers want to make money. Some make poorly detailed kits, others use only basswood for materials.

How do you determine if a kit is accurate? (You won't like this . . ) RESEARCH. It costs you time and money. You read forums, buy books, use the internet, and pay for all the time and effort that a kit was shorted. If you have high standards, you take a kit and radically correct it with changes from your research. Some with skills and experience with drafting, engineering, hand crafting, and wood working go right to scratch building from plans. The easiest route is to buy a kit and bash the hell out of it. You make all the changes as you build.

Perhaps Donnie can figure a way we can each add to a spreadsheet that lists specific kits by name that we can start adding comments on errors found on kit drawings as a start. From there, oversimplifications found in a kit can be listed with suggestions for adding details which enhance the accuracy of a kit. Such changes could be listed by difficulty, easy, moderate, and hard to perform. The database would be large enough just containing comments on errors alone.

I'll start...

Corel's La Couronne 1:100 scale
These belaying pins do not agree between the side and top views on the drawing. Which one is correct? No one knows, so take a guess. Belaying pins were not used to this extent on railings in the 1630's, so a more accurate guess involves tying the lines to the railing directly.
View attachment 316779
That's exactly what I intended, opening a can of worms.
When I buy a 1200 dollar kit, I expect value for money, likewise, when paying 100 dollars for a kit, I expect issues and a lot of them.
Furthermore, I don't expect any kit to be perfect, I expect configuration issues, missing parts, incorrect drawings and inconsistent build instructions, regardless of the price tag.
Back to la Couronne, I think, Kurt, you're the guy to turn to for RCflyer's questions on this particular build; I stumbled on your log: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...ratch-1-100-first-build-completed-build.3111/
 
We shouldn’t mention the error only, one should also presents the improvement or how the error is eliminated when working on the specific model and share it.in my opinion it is much practical instead of searching the history.SoS community consists of well experieced members with their own skills ,ideas and characters(as Darivs mentioned) .one should then decide to apply it or takes further improvements.I personally dared to apply improvents by Flying Fish Schooner from Corel after some consultation with Uwek and members of the community.otherwise the model was not finished in my mind and I didn’t have clear concience.The changes I’ve made are allready in the Model Gallery.At the moment working On Dolphyn Corel and making some improvements by attaching the dead eyes to the hull.Corel’s presented material is to cheap and ugly in my opinion .I will send photos when finished (before and after)
In summary the presentation of the improvements (also for discussion) should be practical and time saving and will help to share experience and new ideas.
Wish a nice and healthy weekend:)Pirate Flag
 
That's exactly what I intended, opening a can of worms.
When I buy a 1200 dollar kit, I expect value for money, likewise, when paying 100 dollars for a kit, I expect issues and a lot of them.
Furthermore, I don't expect any kit to be perfect, I expect configuration issues, missing parts, incorrect drawings and inconsistent build instructions, regardless of the price tag.
Back to la Couronne, I think, Kurt, you're the guy to turn to for RCflyer's questions on this particular build; I stumbled on your log: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...ratch-1-100-first-build-completed-build.3111/
Even the most crappy kit can be used as the basis for a great scratch built model.
 
We shouldn’t mention the error only, one should also presents the improvement or how the error is eliminated when working on the specific model and share it.in my opinion it is much practical instead of searching the history.SoS community consists of well experieced members with their own skills ,ideas and characters(as Darivs mentioned) .one should then decide to apply it or takes further improvements.I personally dared to apply improvents by Flying Fish Schooner from Corel after some consultation with Uwek and members of the community.otherwise the model was not finished in my mind and I didn’t have clear concience.The changes I’ve made are allready in the Model Gallery.At the moment working On Dolphyn Corel and making some improvements by attaching the dead eyes to the hull.Corel’s presented material is to cheap and ugly in my opinion .I will send photos when finished (before and after)
In summary the presentation of the improvements (also for discussion) should be practical and time saving and will help to share experience and new ideas.
Wish a nice and healthy weekend:)Pirate Flag
Corel generally has good wood to start out with, but provides blocks, cones, and hexagons of solid wood that you have to shape and sometimes carve to make ship features that don't resemble Legos. They do have great drawings, though. The written instructions are practically nonexistent, however. If you have good woodworking skills, you can do a Corel kit. If not, there are kits that have parts that are closer to the finished form, and much better written instructions.

Hey KIR!.. ARRRrrrrr!!! Pirate FlagShip-1
 
Last edited:
Even the most crappy kit can be used as the basis for a great scratch built model.
I'll jump into the conversation here. I have really enjoyed having a kit to use as a starting point for my build. The whole infrastructure of my model is straight out of the box. It's fun to then make 'decorative' changes that bring the ship closer to what I envision as a final product. Early on this frustrated me to a certain extent because I am building an 'expensive' kit (and the supplied materials really were pretty bad). But once I realized the time investment the cost of the kit became nothing at all. Indeed, as Kurt has mentioned in another thread, more has been spent on improvements than what the kit cost me in the first place. In my case I suppose it could be said that there were lots of 'mistakes' in my kit - but I suspect those were all conscious decisions by the designer to make the kit buildable for a beginner.
 
I'll jump into the conversation here. I have really enjoyed having a kit to use as a starting point for my build. The whole infrastructure of my model is straight out of the box. It's fun to then make 'decorative' changes that bring the ship closer to what I envision as a final product. Early on this frustrated me to a certain extent because I am building an 'expensive' kit (and the supplied materials really were pretty bad). But once I realized the time investment the cost of the kit became nothing at all. Indeed, as Kurt has mentioned in another thread, more has been spent on improvements than what the kit cost me in the first place. In my case I suppose it could be said that there were lots of 'mistakes' in my kit - but I suspect those were all conscious decisions by the designer to make the kit buildable for a beginner.
Because it's a DeAgostini kit, you can be assured that most inaccuracies resulted from simplification for beginners, since the instructions are written with that in mind. But when you look at a kit such as Corel, it is assumed you already know how to build a wooden model ship since all the effort there was spent in better hardwood materials and drawings. DeAgostini's drawings are minimal, with rigging step-by-step in illustrated instructions. They type of kit you build depends a lot on your skills and familiarity with model building.
 
Sounds interesting...would a list of kits with no issues be shorter?
I guess just getting list of manufacturers ranked best to worst would help...at least it would help me.
While this is a little cynical, I have found both kits I have purchased to date from reputable kit manufacturers to have errors let alone simplifications. There is only so much time a kit manufacturer will spend on research of any particular vessel. In some cases its simpler to 'copy' another manufacturers kit while making subtle changes to try to hide the fact it's a copy; general rule of thumb in copyright is 25% variation makes it an original not a copy. So if one manufacturer got it wrong, the error is simply mirrored in the next manufacturers attempt. The only real improvements come when a manufacturer takes account of feedback provided by modellers who do the research and show the error and then the manufacturer updates the kit accordingly. Problem is most manufacturers will not accept that their model has errors and can get quite grumpy with your if you point it out.
 
After lots of work on the sails for my model ( Amati Hunter Q- ship) I come to find the sheet for making sails is incorrect.
Kit has blueprints for each sail...But one of the sails is wrong when compared to top full scale drawing showing sails on the ship!! Sail drawing shows large flying jib and two other sails of exact same pattern, the jib and fore stay sail.
On top drawing the three sails are of different size??? So 1 out of 3 sails is junk.
No sail material left..not to mention the time I put into making a bad sail. How can a mistake like that not have been corrected by now?
Never over estimate the usefulness of old Italian kit plans and instructions. I'm thinking of Mamoli in particular. You can build wonderful ship models using the components provided but the instructions, still in desperate need of revising. are worse than useless, they will drive you to the point of throwing your project against the wall! The castings are still largely crap as well. Some previous experience in scratch building req'd. I've had good luck with Amati J- class sloops. Still lots of modifying and imagination necessary. I'll send pics with a little help from a friend. I hope.
 
I got to Joann’s fabrics and buy off white muslin. I make a paper copy of the sales and test fit on my yards. I can adjust to add more to the paper and cut it to fit. Once fitted I transfer to my cloth material. I often soak the Muslim with tea bags or use coffee grounds to give sails an aged look. The staining is irregular. Once fry in the sun. I iron the material and then transfer the paper sail to material and cut out rough shape and then sew the lines and be edges and trim to correct size
 
Back
Top