IJN Pre-Dreadnought Battleship Mikasa by Merit 1:200 with Pontos and KA Models

[madtatt]

Ahoy, friends of the adhesive guild.

A ship I've been eagerly anticipating is currently sitting on my workbench. It's the Pre-Dreadnought, or Unit Battleship, Mikasa of the Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN).
The project was started in February 2024. That means I've made considerable progress with the model's construction, and I'll start the time-lapse sequence again here, up to the present day.

There are two reasons why I was particularly looking forward to this ship.
First there is the shape of the hull. Really archaic. Reminds me of a Greek trireme because of the suggested ram. I like it incredibly much. And on deck everything on this ship is so different than on my Bismarck, for example.
Secondly, I don’t just have a Pontos Detail Up Set for this model. No, as a bonus there is also the MK1 Deluxe package from KA Models. There are a few details that are missing from Pontos. Probably not researched thoroughly enough, or what?!. But more on that later.
Well, it’s going to be an etching orgy in the very first cabin. What fun.
Then I would like to introduce you to the available material for this project.

First of all, the model.
This is available from a number of manufacturers such as I Love Kit, Wave Corporation or HobbyBoss. But everything is definitely Trumpeter, which you can see immediately when you open the box.

After all, my Mikasa comes from Merit International. It’s amazing how many names this model is sold under.
The picture shows the box from the company I Love Kit, as I no longer have mine.



Of course there is also my favorite etched part set from Pontos.



And now I’m exaggerating, I know, but this model also comes with the MK1 Deluxe package from Ka Models. I’ll explain what motivated me to do this later in my construction report.



Unfortunately there isn’t much from Veteran Models for this model, but at least this:



This time the figures come from the company ION, which I appropriately won as a prize for my Bismarck.



It is still incomprehensible to me that the manufacturers, regardless of whether it is the model or the expensive aftermarket products, that anchor chains have no double bar links. So they became worried.



Let's move on to another exquisite accessory, these fantastic boats from Micro Master in New Zealand.



A little dream.



So, this is the first list of ingredients for my new project. Although I can’t or don’t want to rule out the possibility that one or two particles could come along.
On to the next two years of fun.

Lets start.
First the basics, with glue the fuselage together.



Next, drilled holes for the stand nuts.



Neatly glued in with two components resin. Just like the internal structures to stiffen the torso.



Then the first lower deck comes into the hull. Now it is really very stable.



Next, the holes for the crampons. Nice straight through the drilling templates from Pontos.



And the usual drilling out of the portholes.



After researching the few images available, I noticed that the porthole that sits on the model below the anchor hawse did not exist.
This was then closed with a round styrene profile.



Filled and sanded.



Another mistake that needs to be corrected. Merit made recesses in the fuselage to accommodate the etched piece gunports from the model in the correct location.
Since I’m using the pontos set here and the hinges of the gunport on the original ship were riveted onto the hull from the outside, I close them with styrene.



I’ll be busy with that for a while.

 

[madtatt]

Continue working on the hull, which will probably take quite some time.
Because after I filled the recesses with styrene profiles, I noticed significant sinkholes that unfortunately had to be thickly filled.
On the right side, I think you can still clearly see the small dent of the sink under the filler.



Since I had to do a lot of filing and sanding here, I could no longer take the surface structure of the hull into account and removed it. Which isn’t a big deal since I’ll be making them again with styrene.



After the first sanding process, the worked areas were primed as a check and I am quite happy with the result.



So, I have created the removed surface structure with my styrene profiles.
It's a little bit wider than the original line, but if it's painted afterwards it should fit.



And so I continued on the port side and completed the areas around the casemates.
Consequently, all structures of this type on the fuselage are now being replaced by styrene profiles. As can be seen above.
Otherwise it would no longer look consistent.



Ok, let’s fill the holes that I don’t need due to the etched parts sets.



Then we come to my beloved Styren profiles.



I use this to imitate the seams of the armor plates. At that time, riveting was still taking place, not welding. However, you can hardly see the rivets under the paint on the original. So that’s enough for me.



The storage areas for the anchors were sanded smooth, as Pontos also fills everything here with brass.



Continue with the seams for the armor plates.
This time on the underwater ship.
It takes a bit of effort and nerves. They have to be attached very precisely and parallel.
But it seems to work:



However, I have to move the torpedo tube opening a little at the stern, so I first closed it with styrene.



It’s slowly going faster now.



But there are still a lot.



Now, however, I also have to take add-on parts into account, such as roll keels and propulsion.
They will only be attached to the fuselage after all the profiles have been done so that I can sand them properly beforehand.



Now I created the vertical joints on the bow and sanded everything well.
Now I had to paint part of the fuselage to see if I didn’t make a mistake with the profiles.
I think you can take it.



The casemates were also checked again.
Can stay like that.



Done with the profiles.



At first I wasn’t sure if I liked it because it’s actually shown the wrong way around.



Because the plates would have to create a gap and not an elevation.



I also sanded down the profiles on the underwater hull a lot



Of course also in the places that you can hardly see afterwards.



And so I think it’s going to look really good at the end.

 

[madtatt]

Let’s continue with the basics.
A privacy screen must be created so that you cannot see light to the portholes from one side to the other side.
That’s why styrene plates were placed in the middle. The whole thing is flexible so I can move the plate back and forth a little. This is how I get the front 3 inch cannons to fit into their openings.



After that I need a little individual privacy protection.



One for the muzzle openings of the torpedo launchers, yellow arrows. And for four small portholes that are located under the first deck near the green arrows. It’s hard for me to get the plates right here, hence the angles.



Then i creating tubes for the anchor hawse. Which should be completely sufficient. It’s just a matter of ensuring that no light shines through on the chain.



Nice and dark. That’s the way it has to be.



Then let us make more details in the inner values of the ship.
I’m going about this a little differently than usual.
For me, the cannon barrels are attached to the model much later and the deck has to be closed early.
There are two reasons for this.
The special feature of the Mikasa is its casemates with the protruding gun barrels. They get in the way and you quickly get stuck with them as you continue building.
In general, I always attach large pieces very late.
I will also raise the hull to the next level earlier than usual. It’s about the upper row of casemates.
If you glue this fuselage part later, which is actually logical and intended, you can get to the internal structures much better.
But you also end up with a very unsightly slot that can no longer be removed.
More on that in a moment.
First I soldered the shields of the cannons on the bow and stern.



Then, since you can’t see anything behind the shields anyway, I simply replaced the cannon body with a small piece of styrene pipe.



This was then glued in and I’ll simply put the barrel of the cannon through the hole later.



Now that all the cannons in the hull are installed, I can prepare the deck.
First say goodbye to unnecessary details. I got a small electric chisel, it simplifies things a lot.



After the grinding orgy, the deck was glued to the bow. Great, deck ready.



Let’s come to the slot mentioned at the beginning.
Here you see the culprit. I might still put up with the gap at the yellow arrows. But the one with the green arrow, no, doesn’t work at all.



And that’s exactly the problem.
What I would then have to mask off on the wooden deck, superstructure and other details if I wanted to fill and paint the gap late was almost impossible.
That’s why I’m going to say it in advance.



Continue with additional small details.
The next picture shows why I add large parts like gun barrels as late as possible. I would like to implement this device with which the anchor was lowered into the water. To do this I first have to remove material from the fuselage.



Then all profiles are checked again and some are sanded down a little further



The torpedo tube opening also has a riveted ring.



On to preshading.



And then tape it off. I’m doing this relatively precisely, even though I’m only in the basic color.
Of course I could spray the red without masking it off, but then too many layers would overlap afterwards and the whole thing would be too thick for me.



And now the antifouling paint is on the underwater hull.



The waterline is running great. Profiles attached at the correct height.



Here are the two recesses for the side with the double anchor.



I really like the structure I made from the styrene profiles.



And the preshading also comes into its own.

 

[Buster]

Loving this build and I totally agree the hull design is fascinating and very appealing.

 

[madtatt]

Thanks Buster.
Yes, I was instantly smitten when I saw this hull.

Then to the upper casemates. Unnecessary holes closed again.



Sanded and found to be good.



So the etched parts battle could finally begin.



The MK1 set has already scored its first points.
Shortly before I had sanded away the rather rough details, I thought about taking a quick photo of them. Pontus had not planned anything here. Incomprehensible, even if you can hardly see it on the finished model.



So, one to zero for KA Models.
Still processing the remaining doors…



Then the first superstructures can go on the deck.



The holes for the crampons were still missing on the upper casemates.
I repeat myself, but this is one of Ponto’s great strengths. The drilling templates!



Simply fix it with an adhesive strip and off you go…



Next I checked the wooden deck amidships. It had to be trimmed a bit to get it to fit properly. Because of the slightly different approach, I have little leeway when installing the parts.
But done satisfactorily.



So I was able to add the next floor.



Additional parts placed on top to check whether everything is in the correct position.
Everything fits perfectly.



Here are the pictures to show why I go to this length.
The slits in the four round casemates would still be manageable.



But this one isn’t very nice.



I think this is better.



After sanding three times…



…and prime, I am very satisfied.



And I especially like this one a lot better now. The extra two days of effort were worth it.



Off to the dry dock with the Mikasa. That's what I call my self-designed assembly stand.



There’s enough space in here on the port and starboard sides to protect the ship while you’re tinkering without it becoming too big and unwieldy..



This means it can be safely laid on its side, for example to work on the portholes.



I can also attach sheet pile walls of different heights to further increase the protection at the top.



Let’s attach the first large etched parts. The anchor supports…



…and the doors at the rear. The ship also had electrical cables all around the back. What purpose they had, however, is unknown to me. It will not have been demagnetizing cables.

 

[madtatt]

Well friends of ship model building, I can do one more before going to bed.
Next, the portholes were installed.



Furthermore, the grilles over the gun are still missing.



I don’t use the crampons on the etched part boards. I don’t like these one hundred percent because they are of course flat. So I prefer to take thin wire and bend it to size.



I finished all the rough work on the fuselage and was finally able to finish painting it.
After a proper preshading the whole thing now looks like this.



What followed was an accentuation. Which means nothing other than that I painted fine details in a lighter gray.



Now I can start aging.



As always, very tedious. But the result that a little diluted dark gray paint leaves on a painted surface still amazes and fascinates me.



Even after all the years I’ve been doing this.



I have finished aging the hull for now and turned a new ship into an old veteran.



I particularly aged the anchor hawse and the area below the anchor berths, as a lot of dirt is likely to accumulate here.



And port side.



The chipping is also strongest here, as the anchors are likely to leave clear marks.



Amidships I aged more subtly.



And a little more at the rear.



The wooden deck was also glazed and applied.



Now I can start equipping the deck, which I’m looking forward to.

 

[Bryian]

Wow, that’s excellent work. I built this kit myself a few years ago .

 

[madtatt]

Thanks a lot, Bryan.
That's really cool. Did you create Mikasa in her black and white peace paint job or in her grey war dress? I couldn't find it here. But I don't have much time, as work is calling. It's just enough for one post.

Let's start filling the deck. I soldered the internal parts of the fans. In 1905, not all of the fan scoops were there anymore and that’s how you saw them. But I don’t know why they were removed.



And that’s how I installed them on the deck during the first superstructures.



Let’s get to the internal structures.
All relatively simple, geometric structures. Neatly sanded and primed.



Added a few doors and hatches to make the monotonous surface more interesting.
However, I am entering into an area of historically unprovable assumptions. Only the pictures of the museum ship show the inner deck of the Mikasa. But that certainly doesn’t have much to do with the original ship.
So I allow myself some artistic freedom here, such as the railing, which is only placed here for customization. It is not documented historically. But it made sense to me, as you could get to the platform at the chimney via the gallery.
And a ladder should also be attached to the component, otherwise how would you get up to the front gallery!?
And that’s how this came about.



We continue with the first 32-foot rescue cutter. A dream detail from Micro master.
However, there is a small problem with the cradles. They are usually not in the places where they come onto the superstructure. That’s why you can see an unsightly gap between the cradle and the cutter, see arrow.



Nothing that couldn’t be corrected with thin Styrene strips and now the boat is lying neatly in its cradles again.



Let’s move on to the internal structures and fans. The deck is slowly filling up.
Especially since a small platform can be seen on both deckhouses. Probably to get to the funnels, so i will attach a ladder and a railing here.



I further refined the superstructure that accommodates the rescue cutter.



The doors are from the MK1 set, the railings are from the model’s original etched parts set.



And the ladders come from the leftover box.



I’m starting to like it that way



And on to the next etched part.
Many small skylights had to be bent and soldered.



The first error in Pontos’ sentence is also quickly identified. The component of the skylights that is supposed to be attached to the front superstructure is unfortunately faulty. It would result in a skylights whose dimensions would not fit into the recess in the wooden decks. I checked the Pontos set what felt like a hundred times but unfortunately without success.
That’s why the KA sentence saved my butt.



The slightly simpler lid was underlaid with cut-up etched part gratings and glued to the original component of the model
Then brought to its position for inspection.



Little by little, the internal structures and boxes are made and collected in my printed organizers to be aged afterwards.



I made a few improvements to the winches.
The large one did have a small cabinet included, I think a distribution box and the drive for the winch, but without any structure on the outside. So I did a little handwork and gave the big winch hinges and a closer made of thin lead wire. The little one got an upright box that functions as a closet. I liked it better.



Still aging and with lead wire wrapped around the drum. I deliberately wrapped it layer by layer, not quite perfectly, to make it look more authentic.



Accomplished.



And so everything could get on deck.

 

[madtatt]

Now i built the 12 pounder. There are eight of these to build for this deck and eight to the rest. With 14 individual parts per gun.



First I solder the gun barrel. Just holds up better.



The rest is then attached with superglue. What a fumble. But as always with Pontos, fantastically detailed.



Painted and aged, they look so good.



When I had finished all 16, I was very glad to have it behind me.



Let’s move on to the next conversion. Again, I liked the MK set better than the one from Pontos. Since I will be showing all the gun port covers open, I thought the rope shown was very nice.
What I changed are the hinges. Since they fold down when open, I simply replaced them with a narrow piece of profile.



This is what it looks like for me. I used a slightly lighter grey to accentuate it.



And attached to the gun ports.
These are the first external structures. Since it is inevitable that the gun barrels will stick out here, I wanted to have them attached already.



And so the eight 12 pounders could take their place.



Now they urgently need the protection of my sheet pile wall. After applying the clear varnish, I will screw it to the dry dock . I am curious to see if I will tear it down again before the construction is finished.



To protect my model from further harm, I wrapped it up nicely. This should protect it pretty well from any carelessness on my part.



On to the next construction phase.
The plan is to breathe a little life into the deck in the form of a crew. And this is where the next 3D print comes into play. This time I’m using the figures from ION Model, which I won in a competition with my Bismarck.
After an initial inspection, the quality is excellent.
I had a few leftover Kriegsmarine sailors and wanted to use them to save on figures. The first ones were supposed to go behind the gun ports, where they’re almost invisible.
So I shaved his head and punched out flat caps from styrene. A small dot of superglue on the top hair, and the Japanese sailor is complete.



Painted and ready to go on deck.



To the cannon sailors, ahrrrrg…Fire free…



And so the lid can go on.



Let’s move on to the support structures that connect the boat deck and the internal superstructure.
I soldered these to ensure maximum strength for these delicate T-beams.



After testing it, everything seems to be fine.



Only this connection needs to be slightly adjusted. It’s only provided by Pontos; it’s simply missing from the original kit, and it would create a large gap. Therefore, there’s no offset for it in the model, and the length of the component needs to be exactly right to ensure proper attachment.



New sailors have taken up their duties.



Get to work with them immediately.



Spread nicely on the deck.



Provisions have to go into the belly of the ship and the first sailors have to scrub the deck under the supervision of an officer.



A sailor climbs the ladder to search for the missing funnel.



Afterwards, I opened the dry dock again to see how it all looked through the gun ports.
I think it looks very lively.

 

[madtatt]

Then the fourth cradle for the cutter has also been adapted and installed.



The boat should fit properly in there.



And so the boat can take its place.



I then placed the rescue boat on its cradles and positioned it in the pinnace.
Liked it.



Micro Master’s boats look absolutely fantastic when painted, and I don’t want to keep that from you.
So here are the two of them, piggybacking.



A nice duo.



When painted you can see all the fine details.



The extra expense was definitely worth but it brings me to my next dilemma. Micro Master’s boats look so incredibly good that I’m considering leaving the boat cover off.
So It was clear that I didn’t want to cover them completely. So I designed a little scene to get around that.
I made a tarpaulin out of tissue paper and diluted wood glue. It took me a few tries.



Then guys made to cover the boat.



Add the railing and rudder blades.



Nice extra income, I don’t have to tie down the cutter anymore.



And the first railing was also installed.



A few spots are still shiny, so I need to apply another coat of clear coat.
I’m pretty happy with the way it is, and now I can move on to the funnels.

 

[madtatt]

Continuing with the preparations for the next internal structures.
The MK set also clearly wins the race for the funnel stacks over the Pontos set.



The brass sleeves look excellent. Here too, Pontos had no improvement to offer for the original component.



I’m amazed at how well the MK set is performing. The extra expense was definitely worth it for me.



I was once again spoiled for choice between Pontos and KA for the funnel surface.
Pontos offers riveted struts, KA rings that run around the funnel.
So, I once again rummaged through my archives of the original ship and looked at conflicting pictures. Of course, often of rather poor quality.
The deciding factor was a quite good picture from Vladivostok, which I believe shows rings. They are meant to represent hand and/or river courses. These are eyelets through which a wire runs. And the rings stylize them.



And again, KA Model wins.
My enthusiasm was dampened slightly when attaching the rings. They were a little too big. That’s why they were touching on one side, leaving an unsightly gap on the other.
I took them off again, sanded them cleanly, and then primed them thoroughly. Another attempt with the blue BluTack putty. This allowed me to keep the rings centered.



It works. And since I’m using Mig’s acrylic adhesive, there’s no mess like with superglue. Diluted and applied with a fine brush, it flows wonderfully evenly into the gap thanks to capillary action.
Excess glue can then be easily removed with a brush.



Ring by ring it continues downwards.



I had to remove all the structures from the chimneys, otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to fit the rings onto the cylinders. Now they’re installed, and I’ve recreated them with styrene profiles. Like this ledge at the bottom of the funnel.



I got resin rivets on decal sheets from Eduard to make the surface more interesting.



The same thing in a vertical orientation. I had to do a little trickery here to get them nice and straight and parallel. I applied them, let them dry, and then cut them with my sharp scalpel.



Fits.



It looks good after the initial aging. It’s a bit annoying that I can still see traces of the rings’ original texture. I wasn’t paying attention.



But afterwards they hardly matter anymore.



Now prepare everything for the next step. On the right, you can see the pipes leading to the gallery. Here, I had to add a little bit of styrene to the pipe clamps that hold them to the funnel. Otherwise, they wouldn’t have fit over the rings.



I can report that the symbiosis of Pontos and Ka Models on the Funnel has been a success.
It did require a bit of trickery, but I think it looks impressive.
Let’s start on the port side.



I had to position the rings so that the second ring wouldn’t interfere with the gallery. Therefore, it was important to measure the ring spacing precisely.



Next came the task of threading the pipe into the gallery. The lower pipe clamp could only be attached after the pipe had already been installed on the funnel. A serious fiddly job.



Additionally, the rings were in the way of the tubes to the right and left of the center. As mentioned in the last post, they needed to be slightly padded. Otherwise, they wouldn’t fit over the rings.



It was not intended that the two accessory sets would be mixed together.



I did have some initial difficulties, but I think I got the most out of both sets. And the result feels very satisfying.