Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

First of all very good and pricise work on the wales-elements - BRAVO
Second: I think I do nee more than one hour to understand how this angle gauge ..... :eek:

IMG_9942.JPG

On your photo the end of this cut plank is smaller (green width) than the width where the blade is in moment (red).
I guess the complete gauge is moved along the blue arrow, the wooden strip is fixed at the gauge (purple arrow) and moved together towards the balde.
Wouldn´t it be not, that first contact with the balde would be the widest part of the plank and at cut would be getting smaller and smaller.
I am asking really only to understand the working of this element - sorry for my english - I am terrible in formulating such things, but I hope you understand my problem in understanding..... hope so
 
dockattner said:
This week I turned my attention to the main wale on the side of the ship that will be planked. There are three strakes in the main wale - a straight running upper strake and two rows of what is referred to as 'top and butt' pattern planking. Here is an image from TFFM that shows what I am talking about (note the darker gray band):

View attachment 401110

After installing the straight upper row, I laid out the location of the butt joints and the top and butt pattern for the two lower rows:

View attachment 401109

View attachment 401111

FYI: this forward portion of the wale is not correct. It should be 'thinned' as it approaches the rabbet. I have left it thicker for the time-being...(it does fit into the rabbet - it's just notched):

View attachment 401112

I then decided to cut all the odd-shaped planks at the same time in order to ensure consistency.

First, I laid out the cuts just to keep my head wrapped around what I was doing:

View attachment 401108

And then I used a power tool for the second time in a month! This is a Byrnes table saw with an angle cutting accessory (only took me an hour to figure out how to use it ROTF) (Full disclosure: one hour for the table saw - one hour for the taper gauge.)

View attachment 401113

As I have mentioned previously, I have an unhealthy (nearly crippling) fear of power tools that cut my fingers off...

Installing planks:

View attachment 401114

First sanding (note: there is a portion of the lowest strake not yet installed at the stern - it has to be impossibly shaped - still figuring out how to make it):

View attachment 401115

A closer look:

View attachment 401116

View attachment 401117

Thanks for looking in!
Click to expand...
Beautiful work as usual Paul. I like those round knurled strake clamps, way better than the wingnut type. I'm kind of curious, how will you clamp down the exterior strakes that will occupy the area opposite the interior strakes and vice versa for that matter?
 
Ptèr said:
wow, I had some catching up to do Paul, but what a great sight the ship is. However, there must be a reason why you’ve choosen to taper the top waleplank at the bow? The width of the Wales should be the same from stem to stern…?
peter
Click to expand...
Of course you are correct Peter. The top strake on the wale isn't really tapered (in the sense that hull planks are tapered toward the bow) - but it was necessary to trim it to fit the underside of the built-up area around the hawse holes. There is something wrong there and my solution was to compromise the wale itself rather than the run of the wale (or the built-up area). There are countless errors like that throughout the model with each one representing my lack of experience or skill. I try to hide mistakes by using sandpaper more than most people but a keen eye will always catch me as I prefer taking very detailed photos ROTF.

Do you point out your wife's faults too? ROTF ROTF ROTF In that case I feel loved :D.
 
Last edited:
Uwek said:
First of all very good and pricise work on the wales-elements - BRAVO
Second: I think I do nee more than one hour to understand how this angle gauge ..... :eek:

View attachment 401152

On your photo the end of this cut plank is smaller (green width) than the width where the blade is in moment (red).
I guess the complete gauge is moved along the blue arrow, the wooden strip is fixed at the gauge (purple arrow) and moved together towards the balde.
Wouldn´t it be not, that first contact with the balde would be the widest part of the plank and at cut would be getting smaller and smaller.
I am asking really only to understand the working of this element - sorry for my english - I am terrible in formulating such things, but I hope you understand my problem in understanding..... hope so
Click to expand...
Well, there is a very real possibility that I am using the tapering gauge incorrectly (maybe I needed two hours to study)! I'm not sure if anyone has ever noticed before but power tools only come with SAFETY instructions not HOW TO USE THIS THING instructions.

But yes, I slid the entire jig toward the blade exactly as you have described... If someone has a better (safer!) way to use this jig please teach me how!!!

The reason the green part is narrower than the red part is that this is the second cut on this strip of wood. The top/butt pattern has a long side and a short side - the green represents the short side (already cut) and I am about to cut the long side.

Your English is better than my German... :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
dockattner said:
But yes, I slid the entire jig toward the blade exactly as you have described... If someone has a better (safer!) way to use this jig please teach me how!!!
Click to expand...

Paul the safest way to work these boards is with a plane.

eZy Watermark_08-11-2022_06-05-54PM.jpeg

I do all planks with the planer, it is safer and more accurate, another advantage is that you can slightly bevel the joint of both planks and thus the planks lie nicely against each other without a gap.
 
YouTube is a good teacher to help you use your saw in a safe way
I like this guy
He's having a few video's with good advice
But also the search string https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=table+saw+safety is a good thing to start with
Kickback of your piece of wood is most common mistake that could happen. Always have respect for your saw, because it will bite if you don't pay attention to what you do with it. Even such a small modelling table saw.
Once you discover the use of the table saw, it will be one of you finest tools in your shop.
 
Hello Friends!

A rare second posting this week. I had a free day today so I turned my attention to the upper deck clamps (these support the upper deck beams). Once again the curvature at the bow required spiling of planks:

IMG_9950.JPG

And a careless moment led to this:

IMG_9951.JPG

That could have turned out worse!

Here are the installed upper deck clamps:

IMG_9953.JPG

IMG_9954.JPG

IMG_9955.JPG

IMG_9956.JPGIMG_9957.JPG

Those familiar with this build diary know that I have been questioning how I should proceed with this build: what details should be built? how much of the inner structure should be left visible? how best to do that?

Well, an unspoken question has been: should I leave the model fully in wood tones or should I add some color?

That decision has now been made:

IMG_9959.JPG

This is where some of you think: I wouldn't have done that... ROTF
 
dockattner said:
Hello Friends!

A rare second posting this week. I had a free day today so I turned my attention to the upper deck clamps (these support the upper deck beams). Once again the curvature at the bow required spiling of planks:

View attachment 401615

And a careless moment led to this:

View attachment 401616

That could have turned out worse!

Here are the installed upper deck clamps:

View attachment 401617

View attachment 401618

View attachment 401619

View attachment 401620View attachment 401621

Those familiar with this build diary know that I have been questioning how I should proceed with this build: what details should be built? how much of the inner structure should be left visible? how best to do that?

Well, an unspoken question has been: should I leave the model fully in wood tones or should I add some color?

That decision has now been made:

View attachment 401622

This is where some of you think: I wouldn't have done that... ROTF
Click to expand...
From my side just a BRAVO, Paul. To take that decision and to do. I suppose you have a certain outcome in mind, perhaps with contrasting (tree)nails?
Regards, Peter
 
dockattner said:
Hello Friends!

A rare second posting this week. I had a free day today so I turned my attention to the upper deck clamps (these support the upper deck beams). Once again the curvature at the bow required spiling of planks:

View attachment 401615

And a careless moment led to this:

View attachment 401616

That could have turned out worse!

Here are the installed upper deck clamps:

View attachment 401617

View attachment 401618

View attachment 401619

View attachment 401620View attachment 401621

Those familiar with this build diary know that I have been questioning how I should proceed with this build: what details should be built? how much of the inner structure should be left visible? how best to do that?

Well, an unspoken question has been: should I leave the model fully in wood tones or should I add some color?

That decision has now been made:

View attachment 401622

This is where some of you think: I wouldn't have done that... ROTF
Click to expand...
I most certainly would have done that!
Applying a somewhat natural finish on the starboard side and a painted port side left me with a very appealing model in that respect. So unfortunately I am a bit biased.
 
Steef66 said:
I like the colouring, because the boxwood is very White. It need a little contrast for sure. But, I wouldn't use Black, but very dark Brown.
Click to expand...
Thanks Stephan, it's actually a very (very) dark gray. I think English ships commonly used this color (black), but I could be wrong.

Peter Voogt said:
From my side just a BRAVO, Paul. To take that decision and to do. I suppose you have a certain outcome in mind, perhaps with contrasting (tree)nails?
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Thank you, Peter. I have black hornbeam trenails already made but will also be doing some trials with brass. I might even leave then shiny if the trials justify that.

RDN1954 said:
I most certainly would have done that!
Applying a somewhat natural finish on the starboard side and a painted port side left me with a very appealing model in that respect. So unfortunately I am a bit biased.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Johan. You are reading my mind.

Jimsky said:
Exactly!!! I thought you would cut longitude alone the keel :p
Click to expand...
NO COMMENT!

Tobias said:
Dreamlike Paul, I wouldn't have done it any other way, it fits very well.
Click to expand...
Much appreciated, Tobias!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top