Good to know - we all should keep this in mind with the color
One question: Did the dimension change somehow? means the cross section .....
Le Mercure ANCRE Plans
- Thread starter LeMercure
- Start date
- Watchers 38
-
- Tags
- ancre le mercure
One question: Did the dimension change somehow? means the cross section .....
Yes the smaller piece extracted from the Ammonia is actually factionally smaller now both in width and height (cross sectional).
I think it is always important, regardless of what you might be doing, if you are doing it for the first time, undertake an experiment off of the model first.
I think it is always important, regardless of what you might be doing, if you are doing it for the first time, undertake an experiment off of the model first.
I thought I would share my technology for bending planks at the bow as I know this topic has come up many times on a number of forums in the past.
I'll do this over a series of posts.
In my first post I will show you how I bend planks in multiple axis for use at the bow (note the emphasis!).
As you will have seen in my previous posts, Ammonia allows me to do this easily in one action and has no spring back. It is, in some ways, a perfect solution. However, unfortunately Ammonia changes the colour of lighter coloured woods so is not usable in this instance. As such, my process will describe my technique in the use of steam.
Let's focus on my first pear plank at the bow immediately below the wales. Please see FirstPlank.jpg ("Here" shows where it will go). This plank must bend almost 90 degrees at the bow (in one axis) but it must also bend upwards quite significantly (in the second axis) to maintain a "straight" line against the bottom plank of the wales. Please bear in mind during this process my planks are quite thick (3.5mm).
I break this process down in to a few steps:
Step 1: From my stock I cut down some double thick planks bearing in mind that this piece will turn in to 2 planks - one of the port side and the equivalent plank on the starboard side. Bearing in mind that my planks will be 3.5mm thick, this piece is about 7.8mm thick because I am allowing 0.5mm for the thickness of my band saw + 0.3mm additional thickness for any minor errors. Please see OriginalStock.jpg and CutDoublePlanks1.jpg and CutDoublePlanks2.jpg
Step 2: I then steam this entire single piece for 35 min. See Steaming.jpg
Step 3: I then take the entire piece to my pre-made jig and bend it for 24 hours. Note, this bend is going to be the bend in the "second axis" described above.
Please note the mould "A" in the photo of my jig. The curve in this mould has been cut to a specific shape to ensure my final piece of wood, once removed from the jig, will spring back to the exact position. As such, the mould "A" has a curve which is fractionally stronger than I need in my final piece of pear. I personally find I need to do this by about 30-40%. See Jig1.jpg and Jig2.jpg
Step 4: When I remove the piece from the jig it has the correct bend in it. Remember this is going to turn in to 2 planks very shortly.
Step 5: I carefully setup my band saw with a fence (attached very tightly!) and run the piece of pear through the band saw slowly and carefully to cut it into 2 perfectly symmetrical pieces (one for each side of the model) with identical thicknesses (about 3.7mm). See BandSaw1.jpg showing the entire piece as it was when it was removed from the jig and just before I ran it through the band saw. Also, BandSaw2.jpg showing the piece after it has been cut in the Band Saw in to 2 symmetrical planks.
Step 6: These pieces are each then bent (with dry heat - in my case using a heat gun @ 190C) carefully and slowly almost 90 degrees so they each curve around the bow exactly as required. This can be a slow process and you need to keep going back to the model to measure progress every minute or so. See HeatGun.jpg
Step 7: The final plank will now have the correct bend in 2 axis. See BentPlank1.jpg and BentPlank2.jpg
In these photos the planks needs a little more bending with the heat gun. I ran out of time today!
Even after this bending process the pieces of pear are not quite finished yet.
I will need to put the correct angle on the top and bottom edges of both planks so they meet adjacent planks correctly. I'll also need to taper the planks at the front edge.
I'll cover this in a separate post later.
I'll do this over a series of posts.
In my first post I will show you how I bend planks in multiple axis for use at the bow (note the emphasis!).
As you will have seen in my previous posts, Ammonia allows me to do this easily in one action and has no spring back. It is, in some ways, a perfect solution. However, unfortunately Ammonia changes the colour of lighter coloured woods so is not usable in this instance. As such, my process will describe my technique in the use of steam.
Let's focus on my first pear plank at the bow immediately below the wales. Please see FirstPlank.jpg ("Here" shows where it will go). This plank must bend almost 90 degrees at the bow (in one axis) but it must also bend upwards quite significantly (in the second axis) to maintain a "straight" line against the bottom plank of the wales. Please bear in mind during this process my planks are quite thick (3.5mm).
I break this process down in to a few steps:
Step 1: From my stock I cut down some double thick planks bearing in mind that this piece will turn in to 2 planks - one of the port side and the equivalent plank on the starboard side. Bearing in mind that my planks will be 3.5mm thick, this piece is about 7.8mm thick because I am allowing 0.5mm for the thickness of my band saw + 0.3mm additional thickness for any minor errors. Please see OriginalStock.jpg and CutDoublePlanks1.jpg and CutDoublePlanks2.jpg
Step 2: I then steam this entire single piece for 35 min. See Steaming.jpg
Step 3: I then take the entire piece to my pre-made jig and bend it for 24 hours. Note, this bend is going to be the bend in the "second axis" described above.
Please note the mould "A" in the photo of my jig. The curve in this mould has been cut to a specific shape to ensure my final piece of wood, once removed from the jig, will spring back to the exact position. As such, the mould "A" has a curve which is fractionally stronger than I need in my final piece of pear. I personally find I need to do this by about 30-40%. See Jig1.jpg and Jig2.jpg
Step 4: When I remove the piece from the jig it has the correct bend in it. Remember this is going to turn in to 2 planks very shortly.
Step 5: I carefully setup my band saw with a fence (attached very tightly!) and run the piece of pear through the band saw slowly and carefully to cut it into 2 perfectly symmetrical pieces (one for each side of the model) with identical thicknesses (about 3.7mm). See BandSaw1.jpg showing the entire piece as it was when it was removed from the jig and just before I ran it through the band saw. Also, BandSaw2.jpg showing the piece after it has been cut in the Band Saw in to 2 symmetrical planks.
Step 6: These pieces are each then bent (with dry heat - in my case using a heat gun @ 190C) carefully and slowly almost 90 degrees so they each curve around the bow exactly as required. This can be a slow process and you need to keep going back to the model to measure progress every minute or so. See HeatGun.jpg
Step 7: The final plank will now have the correct bend in 2 axis. See BentPlank1.jpg and BentPlank2.jpg
In these photos the planks needs a little more bending with the heat gun. I ran out of time today!
Even after this bending process the pieces of pear are not quite finished yet.
I will need to put the correct angle on the top and bottom edges of both planks so they meet adjacent planks correctly. I'll also need to taper the planks at the front edge.
I'll cover this in a separate post later.
Last edited by a moderator:
Here you can see the plank has been tapered at the bow with 2 tools: a scraper and also a sanding stick: PlankTapering.jpg
Note the long piece of flat wood on the left of the photo that the edge of the sanding sick os resting on. This is very important as it controls the angle of scraping and sanding and prevents "rocking of the hand" ensuring that the edge of the plank is sanded as a flat surface. This is crucial so that the next plank that sits on this surface has a tight join minimising the visible caulking line.
From a previous post you will understand that I have divided the hull into "bands" delineated with the pencil lines. 4 planks need to fit in to this first band and as such, the width of the plank is 1/4 of the height of the band at all points. As a consequence of the band becoming narrower at the bow of the model the plank must be tapered accordingly. There is quite a bit of work here to the extent that I scrape and test against the model and repeat this process many times.
TestingFit1.jpg and TestingFit2.jpg show how the plank will sit after the tapering.
I also show DryHeat.jpg showing how I apply the dry heat as per my previous post. I find that using a jig (a previous cut shape of wood) is very helpful. After I have applied the dry heat I allow the plank to sit in the jig overnight.
One last photo I will show you all is CaulkingLines.jpg
We have had some very hot days in Adelaide and some of the caulking lines have opened slightly compared to when I built this stern piece. This is very annoying.
Dr Mike cautioned me about the use of pear and its known expansion/contraction. I am now having reservations about planking my hull with it although it probably is too late.
Interestingly my deck, which was planked in Castello, and has been subject to the same weather, has not moved a fraction: Deck.jpg
Note the long piece of flat wood on the left of the photo that the edge of the sanding sick os resting on. This is very important as it controls the angle of scraping and sanding and prevents "rocking of the hand" ensuring that the edge of the plank is sanded as a flat surface. This is crucial so that the next plank that sits on this surface has a tight join minimising the visible caulking line.
From a previous post you will understand that I have divided the hull into "bands" delineated with the pencil lines. 4 planks need to fit in to this first band and as such, the width of the plank is 1/4 of the height of the band at all points. As a consequence of the band becoming narrower at the bow of the model the plank must be tapered accordingly. There is quite a bit of work here to the extent that I scrape and test against the model and repeat this process many times.
TestingFit1.jpg and TestingFit2.jpg show how the plank will sit after the tapering.
I also show DryHeat.jpg showing how I apply the dry heat as per my previous post. I find that using a jig (a previous cut shape of wood) is very helpful. After I have applied the dry heat I allow the plank to sit in the jig overnight.
One last photo I will show you all is CaulkingLines.jpg
We have had some very hot days in Adelaide and some of the caulking lines have opened slightly compared to when I built this stern piece. This is very annoying.
Dr Mike cautioned me about the use of pear and its known expansion/contraction. I am now having reservations about planking my hull with it although it probably is too late.
Interestingly my deck, which was planked in Castello, and has been subject to the same weather, has not moved a fraction: Deck.jpg
That is interesting and unfortunate about pear. As many others have noted, pear has numerous aesthetic characteristics that make it an extremely appealing choice for wooden ship-modeling. I'm not saying that I'm turned off to pear, but I suppose it requires relative humidity considerations that add a layer of care to the build and display of the model.
Thank you for your elaborate explanations on your building methods. Highly appreciated!
I can learn a lot from you and especially as I am building my first model, which is also a solid hull and I will also be using pear wood.
Last edited:
How is your work on the wales going? Maybe you can show us some update of the progress
Yes always looking forward to updates Antonio
Hallo @LeMercure
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Long Time not seen - Did you made some progress on your amazing model?
@ LeMercure - I wish you a very happy birthday and many years to come 
Looking forward to updates on your model.
and many years to come Looking forward to updates on your model.
Happy Birthday, Antonio! Two Brooklyn slices for you today 
Happy Birthday, Antonio. Another slice from Brooklyn
Another slice from Brooklyn
Hallo @LeMercure
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Long Time not seen - Did you made some progress on your amazing model?
