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Le Requin-Zebec-1750 POF 1:48 (ZHL)

Setting up alignment jigs for glue down of certain parts is a must on this ship. The edge molding at the bow needed a hold down solution by wedging the piece off of a strong back beam.

IMG_1632.jpeg

There are 48 filler frames going in-between the existing tall frame extensions that help support the bulwark planking. These frames have to be notched to fit over the deck edge molding.

IMG_1638.jpeg

This first attempt is very rough looking, but I will get better as I go along. Again, trying to hold this piece plumb and online requires yet another type of jig, one that can be easily adapted to the varying angles this deck presents. I chose to use the ships main jig as my base, plumb up externally with my jig which gives a firm rest for the filler frame. Check it out.

IMG_1639.jpegIMG_1640.jpegIMG_1641.jpeg

The deck edge molding will be covered over so as you can see, I really sawed, hacked, and filled each notch not spending too much time for any water-tight fit.
Thanks again for having a look.
 
Daniel20 said:
Setting up alignment jigs for glue down of certain parts is a must on this ship. The edge molding at the bow needed a hold down solution by wedging the piece off of a strong back beam.

View attachment 581480

There are 48 filler frames going in-between the existing tall frame extensions that help support the bulwark planking. These frames have to be notched to fit over the deck edge molding.

View attachment 581481

This first attempt is very rough looking, but I will get better as I go along. Again, trying to hold this piece plumb and online requires yet another type of jig, one that can be easily adapted to the varying angles this deck presents. I chose to use the ships main jig as my base, plumb up externally with my jig which gives a firm rest for the filler frame. Check it out.

View attachment 581482View attachment 581483View attachment 581484

The deck edge molding will be covered over so as you can see, I really sawed, hacked, and filled each notch not spending too much time for any water-tight fit.
Thanks again for having a look.
Click to expand...
More fiddly work, Daniel...
 
Daniel20 said:
Setting up alignment jigs for glue down of certain parts is a must on this ship. The edge molding at the bow needed a hold down solution by wedging the piece off of a strong back beam.

View attachment 581480

There are 48 filler frames going in-between the existing tall frame extensions that help support the bulwark planking. These frames have to be notched to fit over the deck edge molding.

View attachment 581481

This first attempt is very rough looking, but I will get better as I go along. Again, trying to hold this piece plumb and online requires yet another type of jig, one that can be easily adapted to the varying angles this deck presents. I chose to use the ships main jig as my base, plumb up externally with my jig which gives a firm rest for the filler frame. Check it out.

View attachment 581482View attachment 581483View attachment 581484

The deck edge molding will be covered over so as you can see, I really sawed, hacked, and filled each notch not spending too much time for any water-tight fit.
Thanks again for having a look.
Click to expand...
Very challenging to line them out and give them the right ‘flow’, Daniel.
Regards, Peter
 
Daniel20 said:
Good morning all, I have more of a procedural update than a progress report. A while back our friend @Loracs posted how he used a sandblasting method to remove char from his Bluenose parts. Always on the lookout for a better way to do char removal I geared up and gave it a try, and it works great! Using an air brush gun designed for sandblasting along with the proper PPE gave the following results. Before and after.

View attachment 581362

View attachment 581361

View attachment 581363

In my garage with a 30" floor fan at my back it took 30min to do all 60 pieces.

View attachment 581360

I did not use a blasting box but instead relied on my fan to blow most of the sand media out onto my driveway then used my 1-gal bench compressor and my leaf blower to clear out what fell on my workbench area. Next time I will just set everything up on my driveway and be done with it. Like most everyone else, I really dislike dealing with char. This system is like using a pencil eraser, it just erases the char without eating into the wood. I will hit each piece lightly with some 320-grit sandpaper and their ready to go. It took about 10 refills in the spray dispenser cup, so it does have a high usage rate.

So, I just wanted to share my experience with it, hope you all find it useful.
Till next time.
Click to expand...
You could be a character in the Fallout game with that kit Daniel ROTF.
 
I began testing surface finishes today. I used a concoction quoted by Paul @dockattner who received the formula from Russ @RussF. I very much like results on a test piece from a pearwood laser cut out, this mixture has the effect of transforming what I call dirty looking pear to a rich soft brownish maybe dark reddish glow.
This is so promising for the majority of the hull planking.

IMG_1644.jpeg



I also tried it on a section of the deck that will be covered by the gun deck. The results here are not nearly as striking so I need to do some more research and testing.
The decking while advertised as pear, has a completely different look. IMG_1648.jpeg


This last picture I removed and replaced the starboard rib extension (I had really butchered the fit), set the port side (mirror) rib and what I call a transvers deck rib for lack of a better term. This piece does represent a reference line for most of the rest of the deck furnishings.

IMG_1647.jpeg

I spent several hours getting that cross piece to fit as its curvature straight out of the laser cut plank was nowhere near a match to the deck curvature.
Ha, no surprise there.

Thanks again for following along.
 
Daniel20 said:
I began testing surface finishes today. I used a concoction quoted by Paul @dockattner who received the formula from Russ @RussF. I very much like results on a test piece from a pearwood laser cut out, this mixture has the effect of transforming what I call dirty looking pear to a rich soft brownish maybe dark reddish glow.
This is so promising for the majority of the hull planking.

View attachment 582205



I also tried it on a section of the deck that will be covered by the gun deck. The results here are not nearly as striking so I need to do some more research and testing.
The decking while advertised as pear, has a completely different look. View attachment 582207


This last picture I removed and replaced the starboard rib extension (I had really butchered the fit), set the port side (mirror) rib and what I call a transvers deck rib for lack of a better term. This piece does represent a reference line for most of the rest of the deck furnishings.

View attachment 582206

I spent several hours getting that cross piece to fit as its curvature straight out of the laser cut plank was nowhere near a match to the deck curvature.
Ha, no surprise there.

Thanks again for following along.
Click to expand...
beautiful work Daniel
 
Daniel20 said:
A mixture of equal parts tung oil, marine varnish, and turpentine as a thinning solvent.
Click to expand...
I love the look of tung oil, but I found it hard to glue anything to it (like guns). I wound up putting pins in the bottoms of carriages and gluing the pins into the decks. I've used it a lot on furniture. It cures pretty hard over time.
 
Vfordyce said:
I love the look of tung oil, but I found it hard to glue anything to it (like guns).
Click to expand...
Hello Vic, any applications of the finish right now will be in areas where nothing gets glued down. The majority will be applied to the ship's hull planking and certain other areas. I will be using black ink for some of the vertical surfaces (another first for me).
 
Daniel20 said:
Hello Vic, any applications of the finish right now will be in areas where nothing gets glued down. The majority will be applied to the ship's hull planking and certain other areas. I will be using black ink for some of the vertical surfaces (another first for me).
Click to expand...
I can’t wait to see how it looks with the tung oil. I’ve used it on two ships and two pieces of furniture.
 
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