Thanks, Dean. The joinery obligation on each deck is getting to be a bit much so I may build a 1:72 plane soon
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Le Saint Philippe 1693 after Jean-Claude Lemineur (Ancre) in scale 1:48
- Thread starter dockattner
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- 1:48 ancre saint philippe
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Merci beaucoup, Olivier!Chapeau, mon Ami! Bien fait!
I ran out of superlatives in English…
Thanks much, Stephan. I miss seeing your work!
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Me too—I haven’t been able to work on the ship in ages. My arthritis is really acting up. I can’t do any precision work, so I’m writing a lot for *De Modelbouwer* these days, making rope walks in between, and taking care of the necessary household jobs. We’re waiting for better weather—with less rain and warmer temperatures—so my joints can loosen up again.
What a nice composition of lines and curves, Paul. Top notch!
Regards, Peter
Paul, your joinery is exquisite. I really like the outcome of the horizontal knees; a mortice style joint makes good sense. It's interesting how quickly the light diminishes on the lower decks, what dungeons those lower decks must have been.
Excellent plan, be aware…1 leads to 100!Thanks, Dean. The joinery obligation on each deck is getting to be a bit much so I may build a 1:72 plane soon
Thank you kindly, Peter! The open end does allow some unique site-lines to see these details.
That's for sure, Daniel! There is a staircase near the front of my stern section but nothing else that would have allowed natural light into the depths.
The mortice joint for the ledge was courtesy of the administrator of the French Arsenal Forum. Information right from the top!
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Outstanding work my dear friend Paul!
Thanks for stopping by - and for the nice comment, Shota!
Oops, I meant to post this last night but failed the part where you hit: Post reply...
Hello friends,
Part 1
I rarely post techniques or 'how-to' notes. I think there are people much better suited for that sort of thing. Even after more than five years of wooden ship modeling, I consider myself more of a learner than a teacher.
But I came up with a clamping jig for cutting mortices in deck beams and I am rather happy with it, so I'll show you what I made.
My set up begins with the small Proxxon mill and compound table. When I purchased the mill I also added a few accessories - including a machine vice which can be bolted to the compound table.
I fabricated a very simple jig that fits on the machine vice. It includes some clamping battens to hold the beam in place. I rounded the end of these to avoid introducing torque as the beams have a camber and do not sit perpendicular to the mill along their length. The wider battens are for beams - the narrower battens are for short pieces like carlings (I added these after-the-fact once I realized my first ones were too far apart to use for short pieces).
In order to connect the jig to the vice I added a housing on the underside. These housings fit the respective members of the vice very (very) snuggly:
I simply lay the beam on its side and mill in the mortice. But now, rather than moving the compound table to the next mortice I just loosen the vice - slide the beam to the next mortice location - tighten the vice - and mill away.
Here is a short (2 minute) video showing this in action:
That's four, perfect, identical mortices in two minutes. Much faster than I can do them by hand using chisels - and much faster than I can do them if I have to turn the tiny wheels of the compound table over the length of the beam. This approach also keeps the cutting action at right angles to the top of the beam (that will only make sense if you have ever cut mortices into curved pieces that are taped to the full length of the compound table).
I'm sure others have their own preferred approach to cutting pockets into beams, so I make no claims of superiority. And I suppose CNC milling would do this even more precisely - but this is a pretty usable solution.
Part 2
In the words of Yogi Berra: it's déjà vu all over again...
The beginnings of the quarterdeck:
The quarter deck adds a new twist... the joinery (joint) between the deck beams and the deck clamp on the first, second, and third decks was a blind dovetail. With the quarter deck the dovetail remains visible:
My very best wishes to all of you this Easter.
And for those of you who approach this season with hearts and minds of faith: He is Risen!
Hello friends,
Part 1
I rarely post techniques or 'how-to' notes. I think there are people much better suited for that sort of thing. Even after more than five years of wooden ship modeling, I consider myself more of a learner than a teacher.
But I came up with a clamping jig for cutting mortices in deck beams and I am rather happy with it, so I'll show you what I made.
My set up begins with the small Proxxon mill and compound table. When I purchased the mill I also added a few accessories - including a machine vice which can be bolted to the compound table.
I fabricated a very simple jig that fits on the machine vice. It includes some clamping battens to hold the beam in place. I rounded the end of these to avoid introducing torque as the beams have a camber and do not sit perpendicular to the mill along their length. The wider battens are for beams - the narrower battens are for short pieces like carlings (I added these after-the-fact once I realized my first ones were too far apart to use for short pieces).
In order to connect the jig to the vice I added a housing on the underside. These housings fit the respective members of the vice very (very) snuggly:
I simply lay the beam on its side and mill in the mortice. But now, rather than moving the compound table to the next mortice I just loosen the vice - slide the beam to the next mortice location - tighten the vice - and mill away.
Here is a short (2 minute) video showing this in action:
That's four, perfect, identical mortices in two minutes. Much faster than I can do them by hand using chisels - and much faster than I can do them if I have to turn the tiny wheels of the compound table over the length of the beam. This approach also keeps the cutting action at right angles to the top of the beam (that will only make sense if you have ever cut mortices into curved pieces that are taped to the full length of the compound table).
I'm sure others have their own preferred approach to cutting pockets into beams, so I make no claims of superiority. And I suppose CNC milling would do this even more precisely - but this is a pretty usable solution.
Part 2
In the words of Yogi Berra: it's déjà vu all over again...
The beginnings of the quarterdeck:
The quarter deck adds a new twist... the joinery (joint) between the deck beams and the deck clamp on the first, second, and third decks was a blind dovetail. With the quarter deck the dovetail remains visible:
My very best wishes to all of you this Easter.
And for those of you who approach this season with hearts and minds of faith: He is Risen!
It really shows the complex aspects of ship construction of this era brilliantly.
I have been experimenting with some new techniques while lining out the lower planking runs on the hull I thought may be of interest. I want a subtle appearance with treenails. You take a piece of packing tape - and apply it over your planking, then drill the holes for the nails - at this scale .4mm - thru the tape into the wood. Then rub in walnut wood filler over the nail holes on top of the tape, let it dry and peel off tape. You have perfect subtle nailing with less trouble.
I also ordered this product this morning - sounds similar to your mix of tung with drying additives. I love the Liberon product range - should be a good comparison with Shellac.
amazon.com/Liberon-003815-Finishing-Oil-Liter/dp/B000TAWCIO
I have been experimenting with some new techniques while lining out the lower planking runs on the hull I thought may be of interest. I want a subtle appearance with treenails. You take a piece of packing tape - and apply it over your planking, then drill the holes for the nails - at this scale .4mm - thru the tape into the wood. Then rub in walnut wood filler over the nail holes on top of the tape, let it dry and peel off tape. You have perfect subtle nailing with less trouble.
I also ordered this product this morning - sounds similar to your mix of tung with drying additives. I love the Liberon product range - should be a good comparison with Shellac.
amazon.com/Liberon-003815-Finishing-Oil-Liter/dp/B000TAWCIO
He is risen indeed!
Ah, the tape solves the problem of getting filler into the wood fibers around the hole. Looking forward to your test results.
Re: Liberon Finishing Oil - my house is a timber frame with exposed Douglas Fir posts and beams. The timber frame company recommended a 'hard oil' finish quite similar to what you are looking into.
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The last foto is looking really impressive. It's really nice, to see all the different beams and timbers of the construction.
I agree with you, Christian! I am really happy to be able to see (and show) the construction I am working so hard on. I have looked at lots and lots of stern section models. Many leave the interior empty, others finish it out like a doll house. This is more in the middle, and I have to say it is turning out better than I envisioned. This example is also longer than most stern sections - just about 1/4 of the total ship length. I think this is giving a feeling of substance to the model. In fact, I wish I had made it a bit longer so I could show the termination of the quarter deck - but I wasn't smart enough to see that issue when I started. Hindsight...
Happy Easter, mon ami!
