Read the instructions carefully...I am working on same and some one else said before the instructions are not correct? Although....I had plenty of second planking so it didn't mater. I also planked P1 then the .5mm.Did anyone use 2 mm View attachment 255988pawlonia (P1) planking for the stern? Or did you just use .5 mm beech?
What instructions? I couldn’t find any for the aft section below. I saw @paulb did it this way.Read the instructions carefully...I am working on same and some one else said before the instructions are not correct? Although....I had plenty of second planking so it didn't mater. I also planked P1 then the .5mm.
Vic, an interesting method. But it doesn't look too tight. The meaning of this knot is to tighten the ends tighter so that they do not untie at the most unnecessary moment.I found a new method of serving online at model ship building for dummies. I wrap some thread around a bit that is thicker than the rope I will wrap. I put some white glue on it and cut the loose ends. I slide it off the bit. Slip it on the rope. Hook the rope through the eyebolt and slide the wrapping over the end. Cut off the excess rope and spend half the time making sheathes. View attachment 256248View attachment 256249View attachment 256250View attachment 256251View attachment 256252View attachment 256253
I’m still refining the thickness of the bit. In practice, the glue should hold it, I would think.Vic, an interesting method. But it doesn't look too tight. The meaning of this knot is to tighten the ends tighter so that they do not untie at the most unnecessary moment.
Hi VFicRead the instructions carefully...I am working on same and some one else said before the instructions are not correct? Although....I had plenty of second planking so it didn't mater. I also planked P1 then the .5mm.
Vic, are you redoing the wheels?The front trucks (wheels) look a bit small when I compare them to pictures of Continental style carriages. So I fastened a dowel in my new Proxxon mini vise, drilled a hole into the dowel for the axle to go into, and cut off a slice to make a slightly bigger wheel. I know my methods are crude, but I use what I have available, including lack of patience and abilities View attachment 256391View attachment 256393View attachment 256394
I like the way you are thinking, Vic. But...drilling the dowel in 'such' way will never yield a centered hole. Ideal, is to use the lathe and drillbit in the chuck-tale. Also, you 'sliced' the trucks using the fretsaw. You will have more control in your hands if you would use one of the meeter saws (similar to Xacto). Another good tool for such a job would be the meeter box. The combination of use both those tools will give much better results and all trucks are the same size\thikness. Then, you can center drill each of the trucks (wheels).So I fastened a dowel in my new Proxxon mini vise, drilled a hole into the dowel for the axle to go into, and cut off a slice to make a slightly bigger wheel. I know my methods are crude, but I use what I have available, including lack of patience and abilities
I get it, Jim. Right now I’m just playing with some ideas and experimenting on some carriages that will be covered by the deck. I do like the bigger front wheels. I don’t think I can get my lathe to do what you suggest. I’d need another chuck that would hold a bit. If I drill too deeply, the holes will definitely be off center. Fortunately, I have plenty of dowel if I make a mistake. I’ll look for an Exacto razor saw. I’d have to make a miter box. Maybe I could just saw along the edge of the vise?I like the way you are thinking, Vic. But...drilling the dowel in 'such' way will never yield a centered hole. Ideal, is to use the lathe and drillbit in the chuck-tale. Also, you 'sliced' the trucks using the fretsaw. You will have more control in your hands if you would use one of the meeter saws (similar to Xacto). Another good tool for such a job would be the meeter box. The combination of use both those tools will give much better results and all trucks are the same size\thikness. Then, you can center drill each of the trucks (wheels).
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However, the last statement 'luck of patience' is not acceptable. There should be absolutely no rush in any part of your model build, otherwise, why start the build? Bear in mind, the small details usually attract the eyes and make a model alive, IMHO
Yes, you possibly can do it, but... given that the vises are hardened steel, you are risky to get your sawteeth dull, and restore the teeth would be a challenging task. Also, you would set up a cutting size in the miter box, then all the cuts will be identical.Maybe I could just saw along the edge of the vise?the
The British and Continental cannon rigging are different not just on the breeching line, but the way train tackles are attached.I’m trying to figure out if the rigging for Continental guns is the same for train and for pulling the gun up to the hull. They appear to be attached to the same eyebolt on the back of the carriage.
Jimsky, the drawing with gun carriage fully tied up served what purpose? Perhaps for rough seas, when combat was not in near future.Yes, you possibly can do it, but... given that the vises are hardened steel, you are risky to get your sawteeth dull, and restore the teeth would be a challenging task. Also, you would set up a cutting size in the miter box, then all the cuts will be identical.
The British and Continental cannon rigging are different not on the breeching line, but the way train tackles are attached.
Here is British
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Here is the continental cannon rigging
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Any other than a buttle\combat situations and rough sea. In rough seas, specifically, they close all the ports preventing water inboard thru.Jimsky, the drawing with gun carriage fully tied up served what purpose? Perhaps for rough seas, when combat was not in near future.