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Making your own Ropes

Phillipsart said:
Gutermann E121 3x8 10% stretch. To much weight so I lifted the weight as the rope spun.

Final results still turned out perfect. 0.7mm rope

View attachment 592228
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I love the grey, you can colour that with diluted Judea Bitume to give it an old age look. see here:

Pinnace Papegojan 1627 - 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi @Maarten As I've mentioned before I'm using polyester threads and to create on them tar imitation sometimes might be challenging. So it's necessary to have proper "mixture" which won't rub it off and will "stain" the rope properly. My solution: bitumen So far I'm happy with liquid bitumen...
shipsofscale.com
 
Steef66 said:
I love the grey, you can colour that with diluted Judea Bitume to give it an old age look. see here:

Pinnace Papegojan 1627 - 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi @Maarten As I've mentioned before I'm using polyester threads and to create on them tar imitation sometimes might be challenging. So it's necessary to have proper "mixture" which won't rub it off and will "stain" the rope properly. My solution: bitumen So far I'm happy with liquid bitumen...
shipsofscale.com
Click to expand...
It’s Tan. Bad lighting. I need to improve the lighting.
 
Steef66 said:
I love the grey, you can colour that with diluted Judea Bitume to give it an old age look. see here:

Pinnace Papegojan 1627 - 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi @Maarten As I've mentioned before I'm using polyester threads and to create on them tar imitation sometimes might be challenging. So it's necessary to have proper "mixture" which won't rub it off and will "stain" the rope properly. My solution: bitumen So far I'm happy with liquid bitumen...
shipsofscale.com
Click to expand...
That’s interesting on the Anti static.

Antistatic is a big problem here where I live especially winter. Often getting a nasty zap when I open the screen door.

Have to avoid wearing polyester clothing during winter.
 
Hi @Phillipsart and @Steef66 ,
Thank you guys very much with the help and tips i got from you guys. I am getting the hang of it, a lot goes wrong and some goes fine. The wrong ones are getting less and less. When i finished the Serafil i am going to start with the Gutermann Yarn.

I've rebuild my setup and the rope walk is 5m now does this make any difference in the tension of 10% or differs this with the yarn i am using?
 
robertvg said:
Hi @Phillipsart and @Steef66 ,
Thank you guys very much with the help and tips i got from you guys. I am getting the hang of it, a lot goes wrong and some goes fine. The wrong ones are getting less and less. When i finished the Serafil i am going to start with the Gutermann Yarn.

I've rebuild my setup and the rope walk is 5m now does this make any difference in the tension of 10% or differs this with the yarn i am using?
Click to expand...
Hi Robert, good to hear you make a learning curve up. The measure distance between the hooks, if that is 5 meters, the 10% is 50 cm., always keep that in mind when making rope. When you make a cable this could be less. The weight to get the tension should be pretty much the same if the ropewalk is 5 meters or 3 meters. It could be a little more weight on 5 meters. I hope this info will be a great help to you, maybe @Phillipsart could shine his light also on this subject. Success
 
The weight is found experimentally. There is no formula. It will depend on diameter of rope you make. Larger diameter requires heavier weighty. For my experience the more weight the better. One cannot increase weight indefinitely. At certain weight the yarn will break. I use 150 gram weight for larger diameter ropes and 63 gram weight for thin ropes. 150 g weight will break the Gattermann Skala 240 yearn.
 
I found with my setup 6.2 meters apart I had to use more weight than at 4 meters apart when I first set mine up.

I’m using 600 grams of weight making 1mm rope. At 10% with 3x8 Gutermann E151
 
Hello everyone,

I make ropewalks myself, and I have also tried working with a planetary ropewalk. To be honest, I find it quite problematic and, at times, rather cumbersome to use.

I don't want to criticize anyone or any particular design, because the problem is more complex than that. If you want to make ropes ranging, for example, from 0.2 to 3 mm, a planetary ropewalk can present problems with the twist, how tightly the strands are twisted, and, above all, achieving consistent and repeatable results.

I use a traditional ropewalk, a photo of which I am posting below. In the next few days, I also plan to make a short instructional video showing how it works. In the video, I will be making ropes from both cotton and polyester.

Below, I am also posting photos of ropes made on my ropewalk. I think the final result speaks for itself — especially when it comes to the regularity of the twist and the consistency of the finished ropes.

Roman

10.png



nowe 1.png
 
Phillipsart said:
I don’t have any problems with rope wanting to un twist with my rope walk.
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Neither do I, but with so much emphasis on doing things the way it was done full size, I don't know what the big deal is on rope that won't unravel.

Any full size rope will unravel when you cut it without whipping it. That's why there is a process for doing it..

Some of these rope machines seem like a lot of overkill.

Why not make rope the way it has been made for hundreds of years?

Here is my machine..
 
TheGatzby said:
Neither do I, but with so much emphasis on doing things the way it was done full size, I don't know what the big deal is on rope that won't unravel.

Any full size rope will unravel when you cut it without whipping it. That's why there is a process for doing it..

Some of these rope machines seem like a lot of overkill.

Why not make rope the way it has been made for hundreds of years?

Here is my machine..
Click to expand...
I now know why it was called a rope walk. After watching your video it hit me. The walking back and forth. lol. I’ve often wondered why is it called a rope walk.
 
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