Mast shaping

[STGCS]

I'm working on HMS Pegasus and the plan calls for a 6mm square section at the base of the mast on a 6mm dowel. Don't think that computes. Do I square the dowel section then build it up to 5mm? I'm stumped and this is the case on several mast sections. (See base of the mast plan). Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[marter1229]

Good question!

 

[epicdoom]

That's a bit odd at 5mm square from a 6mm round. Sounds like a mistake in dowel size or the square section. I would build it up its really the only option I see.

 

[STGCS]

That's a bit odd at 5mm square from a 6mm round. Sounds like a mistake in dowel size or the square section. I would build it up its really the only option I see.

If it's a mistake in the plans it's repeated several times on other mast sections. Maybe I'll build it up until it fits the connection point at the trees.

 

[DonRobinson]

@STGCS In the instruction book check out the "Masts" section, point 11 says to build this area up with scrap wood

 

[STGCS]

@STGCS In the instruction book check out the "Masts" section, point 11 says to build this area up with scrap wood

Thanks Don. Guess I'd better read the instructions a little closer.

 

[Uwek]

Sometimes it is necessary to make such solutions

I would reduce the area into a 4 * 4mm square (red lines) and add four 1mm (green lines)

 

[STGCS]

Sometimes it is necessary to make such solutions

I would reduce the area into a 4 * 4mm square (red lines) and add four 1mm (green lines)
View attachment 196541

Thanks Uwek. Another member kindly pointed out I missed that in the directions. Your diagram makes it very clear and I'll try and document it as I make the mast. Know there are others out there that could use the help.

 

[Tony W]

It is so often boring to read all of the fine print, Slightly off the specific subject but I often wonder how others make their masts and spars. I have been using a method that was described in a video on “Veronica” a Thames barge a model that I built some time ago which uses square stock held in a portable electric drill with one hand whilst the other hand wears a thick glove and sand paper, the glove is there because the paper gets quite hot. So far I have only used Jelutong for all of my masts and spars which are coated after shaping with clear epoxy, fine sanded and finished with wire wool. I am interested to know of others experiences.

 

[STGCS]

It is so often boring to read all of the fine print, Slightly off the specific subject but I often wonder how others make their masts and spars. I have been using a method that was described in a video on “Veronica” a Thames barge a model that I built some time ago which uses square stock held in a portable electric drill with one hand whilst the other hand wears a thick glove and sand paper, the glove is there because the paper gets quite hot. So far I have only used Jelutong for all of my masts and spars which are coated after shaping with clear epoxy, fine sanded and finished with wire wool. I am interested to know of others experiences.

I used to use a drill with a hand full of sandpaper. Then I switched to a drill with a dowel chucked in it and then passed a Dremel with a sanding disk attached up and down the dowel. Then I switched to a belt sander where I move the drill/dowel moving back and forth. All worked but not to my full satisfaction so I just gave myself a Proxxon mini lathe for Christmas. Now I just have to learn how to use it without destroying the dowels. Thanks for the comment.

 

[Denis Gaille]

Hello STGCS,
I suppose that you do not master the Italian language and therefore you misunderstood the drawing:
Chiave in Italian is dowel in English. Which is square 2mm shown left from the mast assembly
Your top mast sections from bottom to top are as follows:
Section length (bottom) 10,9mm = square 6mm
Section length 28,2mm = square 5mm (make a jig to do it properly)
Section length 122,9mm = round conical diameter 6mm ending 3,8mm
Section length 9mm = round conical diameter from 3,8mm to 5mm
Section length 16mm = square 5mm
Section length (top) 5mm = round diameter 3,1mm
Dowel (to sit top mast on the cross tree) square 2mm
I hope to have been helpful
Best regards
Denis

 

[bill36]

Without trying to be funny, the trick here is to get a bigger dowel.

 

[STGCS]

Hello STGCS,
I suppose that you do not master the Italian language and therefore you misunderstood the drawing:
Chiave in Italian is dowel in English. Which is square 2mm shown left from the mast assembly
Your top mast sections from bottom to top are as follows:
Section length (bottom) 10,9mm = square 6mm
Section length 28,2mm = square 5mm (make a jig to do it properly)
Section length 122,9mm = round conical diameter 6mm ending 3,8mm
Section length 9mm = round conical diameter from 3,8mm to 5mm
Section length 16mm = square 5mm
Section length (top) 5mm = round diameter 3,1mm
Dowel (to sit top mast on the cross tree) square 2mm
I hope to have been helpful
Best regards
Denis

Always appreciate suggestions and comments especially when I get something wrong. Could you please give me the definition of these symbols? I think the square is correct but not sure of the circle with a + or the circle with the line through it mean. Thanks Denis.

 

[Gennaro]

Always appreciate suggestions and comments especially when I get something wrong. Could you please give me the definition of these symbols? I think the square is correct but not sure of the circle with a + or the circle with the line through it mean. Thanks Denis.
View attachment 197269

That 9 mm long segment looks like cone - tapering from 5mm down to 3.8mm.

 

[STGCS]

That 9 mm long segment looks like cone - tapering from 5mm down to 3.8mm.

Agree. Thats what I did. Want to know what the symbols mean. Think I know but want to make sure.

 

[STGCS]

Without trying to be funny, the trick here is to get a bigger dowel.

True. Thought about it but wanted to try what the directions said. Not a fan of walnut. A larger dowel in pear or something else would have been easier.

 

[JohnB163]

I used to use a drill with a hand full of sandpaper. Then I switched to a drill with a dowel chucked in it and then passed a Dremel with a sanding disk attached up and down the dowel. Then I switched to a belt sander where I move the drill/dowel moving back and forth. All worked but not to my full satisfaction so I just gave myself a Proxxon mini lathe for Christmas. Now I just have to learn how to use it without destroying the dowels. Thanks for the comment.

I have looked at the cost of a Proxxon mini lathe and am impressed with less than $200 cost. I have also looked at some mini lathes that are less than $100. I would only use a lathe about once every 2 years. Since I am on a fixed income the generic lathes are appealing.
Can anyone make an argument that getting a more expensive lathe would be better?

 

[STGCS]

I have looked at the cost of a Proxxon mini lathe and am impressed with less than $200 cost. I have also looked at some mini lathes that are less than $100. I would only use a lathe about once every 2 years. Since I am on a fixed income the generic lathes are appealing.
Can anyone make an argument that getting a more expensive lathe would be better?

I guess it all depends on what you are going to use it for. If you only use it once every two years I'd just rig up a hand drill and use that. I've seen a lot of ways to do it on YouTube.

 

[TechTrek]

So glad you’re going through this ahead of me. Will follow closely on your method for shaping these masts.

 

[JohnB163]

I guess it all depends on what you are going to use it for. If you only use it once every two years I'd just rig up a hand drill and use that. I've seen a lot of ways to do it on YouTube.

I have considered that. Thank you for responding to my post. I have been told that a mini lathe would give me better control when working on spars and other things.