Does anyone have experience with the Artesania Latina scraper tool, or so called 'micro shaper'?
Does it work at all, or just with the softer varieties of wood?
Does it work at all, or just with the softer varieties of wood?
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I've used it successfully with boxwood and pear... But I've also just made my own with single edge razor blades and box cutter blades.
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i have that set. While it worked well for me, I think these scrapers are too thin and maybe a little fragile.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
I have the set, and you have to hold low to bottom edge being used, or mount in vise with top side for use and hold strip with top board to apply pressure to help mold the strip.
Thank you @dockattner , @Jack Sparrow and @Kurt Konrath for your replies.
I will just order a set and give it a try. Elsewhere on the web I have read that it works better with the harder types of wood, contrary to what I assumed, also depending on the grain.
I will just order a set and give it a try. Elsewhere on the web I have read that it works better with the harder types of wood, contrary to what I assumed, also depending on the grain.
Look for the right one you needed, Mike. There are 2 sets.
I used them also on softer wood. Then you have the scrape with less pressure are more moves.
With a blunt knife you can then compact the fibers slightly in the groove again.
Regards, Peter
I use a jeweler's hand vise to hold the Artisania scrapers and others like them close to the scraping edge. This significantly strengthens the thin scraper sheet metal and also makes them a lot more comfortable to use.
1. Make your own scrapers out of single edge razor blades. Much cheaper. These scrapers dull easily, but are easy to "tune -up". A Dremel tool and the abrasive cutting disks work fine to shape the cutters.
Son geniales
I am with Paul on this. They hold the sharp edge better and cost about $0.10 each cents at any local hardware store. Pieces of an old hacksaw blade is even cheaper. You can grind whatever shape you want with a thin grinding wheel in a Dremel, or other hand held drill. The disks are about $0.12 each but last a good while.
Allan
Yes, they do their job very well.
They work very well.
If you made those scrapers freehand with a Dremel, your gangster name has got to be "Steady Hand Yedlinsky!" That's some very detailed grinding there.
Ater using these for a while, it appears to me that it is not the hardness of the wood which is the major factor, but how fine the grain is. Walnut, notoriously coarse grained and hard, wants to be torn and not cut using these forms, but if you make many light cuts, you can carve the walnut into the desired, molded shape. Clamping the scraper close to the cutting edge supports the scraper well, and aid in reducing chatter when drawing a wood strip across the scraper's shaping edge.
The two sets of AL micro shapers I ordered (set A and B) arrived today. I immediatly put them to the test. With the softer basswood it did not work out so well, but with a 2x4 strip of walnut I got reasonable results for a first attempt. It is time consuming though, and time will tell how long they will retain their sharpness. I do not see myself dremeling razor blades however.
Thank you all for your input.
Thank you all for your input.
Hi Mike. I use the scraper a different way. I place the strip of wood on a flat surface and then slide the scraper along the wood strip (rather than mounting the scraper in a vice). Not sure my way is better - just sharing my experience so you can try to see which works best for you.
I’ve tried both ways. Holding the cutter causes it to flex and tends to bend it though. Some create a stiffener that clamps over the cutter to strengthen it and act as a handle, making scraping easier.
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Clamp the scraper as close to the scraping edge as possible in a jeweler's vise or similar hand-held tool. Place the wood to be shaped on a flat surface and scrape with the scraper mounted in the handle described. Repeated scrapes are more effective than trying to bite off more than the blade will chew. The process is more like sanding than cutting with a sharp blade.
For those unfamiliar with the tool, here is one example of a jeweler's hand vise. The tool has relatively wide (1"-2") flat jaws. The jaws of the example shown are tightened by twisting the handle which causes the central screw to pull the jaws down on the cone just above the handle. The grooves on the flat face of the jaws accommodate various sizes of wire for drawing wire through a jeweler's drawplate to size or shape it. A very handy tool for $21 or less online.
See: https://www.fdjtool.com/vs8115-jewelers-adjustable-hand-vise-with-adjustin.html
For those unfamiliar with the tool, here is one example of a jeweler's hand vise. The tool has relatively wide (1"-2") flat jaws. The jaws of the example shown are tightened by twisting the handle which causes the central screw to pull the jaws down on the cone just above the handle. The grooves on the flat face of the jaws accommodate various sizes of wire for drawing wire through a jeweler's drawplate to size or shape it. A very handy tool for $21 or less online.
See: https://www.fdjtool.com/vs8115-jewelers-adjustable-hand-vise-with-adjustin.html
Nice!
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