milling machines

Joined
Feb 8, 2020
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286
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Near Quebec City, Canada
the canadian one I must pay shiping 2337.05 tax and shiping
Hi Smelly,
I too was in the market for a tool to help me make more precise, cuts, rebates, form fitting pieces, etc. I came across and purchased a Sherline Milling machine that I've been very happy with. I did a lot of research before buying. The model I bought was their base machine, BUT, and this was a big factor in driving my purchase, it is scale-able. You can purchase stepper motors to convert it into a CNC machine at a later date, or you can purchase the CNC ready model, or a true CNC model that comes with it's own dedicated computer, software, etc. I was not sure I needed a CNC machine, so I opted for the base model with 1 upgrade, the digital read out (DRO), which makes using it sooooo much easier for someone not familiar with milling machines. Allowing you to reset ZERO at any point. Their machines are not cheap, but building mini lathes and milling machines is all they do and they are a leader in the field. Their customer service is amazing also.

Below is the link to their site along with a photo of my machine. https://www.sherline.com/

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My response may not be exactly on-point in answering your question, but I just couldn't help myself. I believe Donny also uses Sherline machines.

Cheers,
Ken.
yes thanks for the pics... i will purchase this model later this fall.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
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Smelly,
Congrats on your purchase decision! Wait until you see how Sherline packages their machines. They do NOT play around. Evidence to their knowledge of the importance to stabilize and protect precision machines from the jolts and jars and potential mishaps from shipping. They are pros. I have found that there are 4 accessories I could not do without.

1) An angle table that will allow you to precisely end cut scarfs joints and other cuts require cuts other than 90 degrees.

2) A high quality mill table vise.

3) A pricision drill accessory that will allow you to precisely drill using micro bits and prevent them from being broken.

4) A quality rotary table utilizing a 3 or 4 jaw chuck.
I don't include a Sherline link here as I purchased a rotary table and 4 chuck jaw assembly from Amazon.

Hope this helps. And once you have your mill "squared" up, as another poster mentioned, practice cuts on cheap wood before you put your Boxwood or Pear materials under the end mills.

HAVE FUN CREATING BEAUTIFUL THINGS FROM RAW LUMBER OR METAL.

Cheers,
Ken
 
Joined
Jul 27, 2018
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Finland
Sherline is a wonderful machine, but if you are looking for something larger and stronger, I would suggest Optimum BF 16. https://www.stuermer-machines.com/b...nes-conventional/optimill-bf-16vario-3338116/

I have it's big brother BF20 and am completely happy with it. My friend has BF16 and if I could choose again, I would buy that.

It is very easy to convert into CNC, but what is still stopping me doing so, you still need a nice powerful 3D CAD program and to learn how to use it to be able to design your parts, before you can start producing something usable.
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
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hello , L was wondering about milling machines to mill some of the intricate details. gussing with a knife and saw, can be difficult for me . I have a touch of the trembles since the age of about 14 years old. Doctors say i have some loose neurons. would a mini cnc be good. I have seen thecnc 2018 pro, made buy sain smart. https://www.amazon.ca/Genmitsu-3018...WSM06DQRXNB&psc=1&refRID=ES7NE94ZAWSM06DQRXNB

its a router can it replace like the proxon machine? For doing the kind of work people in this hobby.
What you will need to come to grips with is not the actual machine. For the size work, material and tolerances you will use in modeling, a machine such as the one you reference would be just fine. It is the 3D design learning curve which will be the challenge. I have done both 2D and 3D CAD work, 3D has a little steeper learning curve. You will need a 3D capable CAD program [for the intricate details you mentioned] and a CAM program which processes the CAD file to feed to the machine. There are a plethora of CAM programs to chose from. I would imagine a fairly crappy program would come with the Chinese engraver you reference above, with an equally dreadful manual [as this is usually the case]; more capable programs such as Vcarve are an added expense. Learning the CAD/CAM side of thing can be either an enjoyable learning experience or a frustration depending on a number of variables.
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2019
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ok boys and girls I have made my decision, after surfing the net and checking whats availabe for what we ship hobbyist require, and not to mention the tips from you guys I have settled on this item


It is more than what i wanted to spent but the value is there.
Looks like a sweet machine. Even looks more like fun lol.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
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very good ,you are not gonna have the guns out on the lower decks I see, for mine I will shut the lowest deck hatches.
as seen in the pics you sent me.
Actually, I will be displaying guns on the lower decks, but only on one side of the ship. I've not yet decided Port or Starboard as I will put her best side forward with guns and open gun ports.

The only reason they are not open in the photos is I still have quite a bit of work which requires I move the ship around. My concern is that if the gun ports were open with they could catch on something and get torn off. Better safe than sorry IMHO.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
Messages
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Yes, the English ship I think you are referencing is the Mary Rose. The Vasa, (Swedish) suffered the same fate, although she never made it out of her harbor for her maiden voyage, due to the same fate when a gust of wind allowed water to enter her leeward gun ports that were open.

I make mistakes on a daily basis as I'm new to this hobby, but thankfully I don't think I'll drown from any of them ROTF
 
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