Model Expo New "The Seguin" Stream Tugboat

[Bluebeard]

**“Hi guys, as I promised, here is my complete build log for the new upcoming Model Expo kit, The Seguin.
I just came back from Model Expo to get more information about the production of this great-looking model. A few of our members have already built this boat—not only from the old Midwest kit but also from other excellent model companies.
According to Carlos P. M., Model Expo is almost ready to begin producing the first batch (80 kits), so keep an eye out.

This is my approach to building the model. Throughout the log, you’ll notice that my techniques may not be the most advanced, but they’re simple to follow—especially for newcomers who want to give this model a try.

To begin, you’ll see that this kit is a plank-on-frame design with 9 frames that need to be pre-assembled, along with the keel bottom, stern post, and other sub-assemblies.
For the frames, I used cyanoacrylate glue, which allows for fast, clean, and durable construction.
Be sure to protect your plans with waxed paper and use pins to align and hold the frame pieces in place during assembly.”**


After you have identified, number and glue the frames together, you will need to add 1/8" square walnut stock to create the horn type braces to accept the deck. Don't follow the blueprints because they are too short for later adding the deck.

 

[Bluebeard]

After you have identified, number and glue the frames together, you will need to cut and glue 14 pieces of
3/32" square walnut stock to create the horn type braces to accept the bulkwarks. (there planks hight).
Don't follow the blueprints because they are too short for later adding the planks.
Notice in the pictures how I add the braces long enough to cover the horns.
Be careful when assembling them to the frame because they brake off easily.

 

[Bluebeard]

After you have preassemble the frames, you will have to built your stern post according to the kind of shaft that will suits your needs.
the kit will have a very detail stern post diagram to follow.

 

[Bluebeard]

Before I assemble the frames to the keel, you will need to create a building jig and this is my version.

 

[Bluebeard]

To assemble the frames to the keel you will need first to glue the scribed deck to the subdeck and then proceed to assemble all together. I did this wrong by adding the scribed deck after the frames where in place.
Also have in mind that at this moment you will need to insert the interior bases for your electronics, battery and motor before to glue down your stern frames.
In this picture you'll notice that I used two tight wrap to hold the keel to the building jig and "Lyman" weights. I found them on eBay and they are very handy for many coupling steps.

 

[rtibbs]

I don't know if I missed this but, do you have any specs on this. A.O.L, scale etc. ?
Thanks,
Release date?

SORRY, I just found from your earlier post

 

[Bluebeard]

This next step is a new part that I recommended Carlos P.M. to add on the kit.
The "Stringers".
To make sure the meeting of the stringers at the bow were strong, I added from scrap a shaped horizontal sort of frame.
Yes, I take a few sips of whiskey wile assembling, it relaxes me.

 

[Bluebeard]

Now for planking the hull.
For this step I took the model off the building jig.
After faring the frames I started to plank the hull from the deck downwards.
To begin with, all planking should be begun at the bow, unless instructed otherwise. As the planks
are butted one against the other, a definite seam will show so try to pre-fit and bevel the edges before gluing.
Another opportunity to use my Lyman weights on the curves.

After you have most of the planks on the frame you could go and cut the cross section of the frames.

 

[Bluebeard]

The Stern planking.
Im still learning how to plank and because of that I had to cut a few stealers to create the turn of the bilge .


Before adding the end planks to the transom you will need to add these two pieces that will have to shaped to be the base of the planks.

 

[Bluebeard]

Now for the bulwark planks.
Notice on these pictures why I mentioned at the beginning not to follow the blueprint when it comes to glue the bulwark horns to the frames.
I had to improvise and extend them for the final three planks..




This is how it will look if you follow the right path. After the planking you could cut off the excess and sand them flat to complete the bulwarks.


After finishing planking the bulwarks is a good time to stain all the components that will be added to the bulwark, also stain the inside before gluing the waterways.



Now you could do the rest.

 

[Bluebeard]

The upper planking of the stern.

This upper part I made it to wide, you'll see on the other pictures.



Here is another mistake that I had to correct.
When I planked the outer stern I cut the upper part to wide and I had to shrink it be as wide as the rails.

 

[Bluebeard]

I have to catch a brake. I have being gathering info and pictures since 10:00 am and Im tired.

 

[Bluebeard]

These are the satins, paints and clear coats that I used in the model.
Black primer for the black parts, for the white parts I used the flat white and to seal everything I used the semi-gloss.





After sanding smoothly the hull, I noticed a few cracks, so I sealed them with this filler.

 

[Bluebeard]

Mast, boom or derricks.
I usually taper the mast with a powered drill and checking it as I go with the blueprints.
I always wrapping the end with masking tape so the drill won't leave any marks, then I start the taper with 80 grit sandpaper and work myself down to 220 grit.




Forward mast gets a ring around it and according to the old Seguin instruction tells you to use paper to wrap around, I used this styrene strips.





Forward and after mast gets three clits each.

 

[Bluebeard]

This is the steps I took to create the lower deck and the pilot house.
First thing I did is the front of the lower deck, by doing this you can calculate the with of the rest of the structure that follows behind it.





I soak the 1/32'' ply outer skin in hot water for like about 20 minutes, and then clamped the skin over the structure and let it dried.

 

[Bluebeard]

The same procedure was used for the pilot house.
Since the pilot hose is a focus point I decided to add some of the scribed decking inside the pilot house.
Notice the center post painted in black since it will be shown through the window.




Iglue the outer thin ply layer to the back of the pilot house before assembling it.





After hot water soaking the inner and out side of the pilot house walls, I wrapped therm together wile wet and mark the holes windows.

 

[Bluebeard]

You have to do a lot of checking wile opening the window holes.
My initial cut was done inside of the pencil marks and work my way out by filing until both pieces matched perfectly.


I first glue down the inner wall of the pilot house and then the outer.
Even after taking so much care trying to match each skin, you will need to do a final touch with the file.

 

[Bluebeard]

Now, for the bottom cabin.
I first draw the positioning of all the doors and window into the sides od the cabin according to the plans.
Notice that both sides are not the same so mark it somewere for reference when assembling it.






Carefully separate all of your doors.
Leave the burnt of the laser because later on when you stain them, the burnt inner part will add depth to the looks of the doors.


Now is the time when you should glue down all of the doors and windows before you could add the scribed walls.





When I was building the model, Model Expo didn't have fished the window frames, so I created my from the doors left overs, plus I added bottom rails. (I think they look sharp).
In the structure I added some corner and kick moldings as you can see in this picture.
Also you can see here three cross braces on top the structure. One of these will be used to glue down the side of the stair to get access to the top floor.



I also reenforced the bottom cabin inside corners.

 

[Bluebeard]

Now for the Pilot House details.
First The Wheel Stand.
Here again I just follow the blueprints.

1st step.



2nd. step


3rd. step


4th step.


Then after painting the wheel separately I incorporated it with the rest of the wheel stand.


The other item inside the pilot house was the bench and a small map cabinet.





Before you add all of these items, stain and seal the walls and floor deck. After it had dried, proceed accommodating all of the items.
This is how it came out.

 

[Bluebeard]

The Stack Build Up and Details
This is the bottom of the stack and here I added a detail that is not in the building manual.
I first cut out from scrap a 1/16' x 2 1/4' diameter bottom.


I added a base to the inner stack bottom with small 1/8"sq. braces to accept the upper section.





Gluing the upper rings.


And added to the top of the stack section.



For the very bottom of the stack, the part that will be glued to the upper deck floor, I added a 1'8" wider base from 1/16" scrap.
I also used squared tooth picks to create some kind of nuts looking thingies.


This is the final results.


I sprayed painted the entire stack with flat black primer and sealed it with semi-gloss clear.


Then I slightly dried brushed the entire stack with this two color paints.



The stack hold downs will be done with the chain provided in the kit.