Model Shipways Harriet Lane Steam Paddle Cutter 1857 - Scale 1/12"=1ft (1:144) Finished

  • Thread starter Thread starter Quint
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I had been building Model Shipways Kate Cory (build log on this site) but placed the build on hold once my wife and I decided to relocate. After packing up and moving, setting up a new work area, I found I lost motivation to restart Kate. So, I thought if I start a smaller less complicated build it will get me organized and motivated again. After some research I decided on Model Shipways Harriett Lane (got a good deal on Ebay). This is the first reissue of the original solid hull kit. My goal was to finish the kit within three months, I'm now two months in. I never intended to start a Build Log but after starting the build and experiencing the "challenges" with this build I thought my experience may help some other shipwright.

Unfortunately, there are not many completed builds of Harriett Lane on the internet for reference and I found little research documentation. This kit has two sheets of plans (dated 1965) and the instruction manual contains basic detail. I didn't realize the kit was rated as "Advanced" which I assume is not because of modeling skill but the amount of scratch building and lack of detailed plans. I did get access to the newly reissued Model Shipways kit instruction booklet which has been helpful. But oftentimes there are discrepancies in detail between the two kits.

My kit has the basic solid hull which I shaped according to the profiles. Once that was completed, thinned the bulwarks, added the keel, stem and stern pieces. Next planked the hull. Copper tape was included with the kit and the biggest challenge to coppering the hull was etching the plates to scale. Note photo of plans containing coppering detail. This is the first time I used "tape" versus applying plates individually using contact cement. I was unsure how the tape would adhere so after sealing the area to be coppered I applied a coat of contact cement. I then brushed the copper tape with contact cement and applied it to the hull. I am happy with the results.

Next step was to add the deck which I used the kit supplied scribed sheet. Instructions for adding the waterways is contradictory, one example shows the traditional horizontal flat piece while another shows it vertical along the bulwarks! I decided to opt for the style shown in the most recent kit version.

Once I clean and paint the hull, will add the paddle box sponsons and start the deck structures.

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Started the Deck House which consists of three blocks of wood. If you follow the kit instructions, they simply note cutting pieces of the paper templates and gluing to the Deck House. I did not like the look and decided to build up the sides using small strips of basswood. It's a slow process but adds a nice level of details.

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In anticipation of finishing this build I needed to decide on a base and how to display the ship. Buying a base and case on-line has become very expensive, considering the cost of wood and shipping, I sympathize with the manufacturers. Consequently, I decided to try building my own. The case pictured was purchased from Model Shipways in 1992, the date I completed "Elsie". It's a basic case which should be easy to replicate by copying the measurements. I already own a table and compound miter saws, old but functional. You don't need a router for the case or base unless you want to have more decorative edging. I wanted to be able to build different designs and found a base router and table combo on Facebook Market for $30 (FB also had numerous table and miter saws listed). Bought some new assorted router bits, $40. There is a local wood workers store nearby that sells a variety of woods I could not find in Home Depot, Lowes, or local lumber yards. So, I bought some random walnut, maple, select pine and angelique (approximately $120). The piece I'm using for this display base, and case is 3/4"x6"x6' select pine, $15. I figured if I messed up, better to do it if the less expensive wood. Finished the display base, 3/4"x 4-1/2"x18", stained English Chestnut, two coats of shellac, don't forget to use wood conditioner prior to staining! Used the table saw to rip down the case pieces. Weather permitting hope to finish cutting and assembling within the next week, its cold in the garage!

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An update on my build. Progress has been steady but slow. Not a fan of working in this scale! On the surface the kit looks pretty straightforward, a basic build but there is a lot of small detail that needs to be added. Hopefully in another week I will have everything completed so I can begin rigging.

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Finishing the deck structures. An item of note is the kit provides brass eyelets to use for the portholes (there's a photo in my first post). When I added them, they looked out of scale. After removing them I felt the hole looked more to scale and realistic. I'll fill them with some clear fill later. Working on the railing for the ladders, decided to use styrene rod versus the kit provided castings which are the wrong scale.

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Finally finished the railings! The kit railing posts are not to scale so I replaced them with .025 styrene rod which turned out to be a very time-consuming process. The railings are very delicate, and I had to try different types of liquid cement but finally found 5-minute epoxy worked best. The kit instructions also noted using chain as funnel supports. However, I felt this looked out of scale. Using the same size chain for the anchor chain and funnel supports didn't look realistic.

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Started the rigging. Rigging the shrouds has been a challenge at this scale, could be my age and eyesight! Hopefully I can finish within a couple of weeks and get back to my Kate Cory build.

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Finally moved to the rigging stage. First issue I faced was how to do the ratlines, had to find a very fine thread in order to use a clove hitch. Another problem I encountered was once I started rigging it seemed anytime I touched the railing, pieces broke off. Otherwise, the rigging is very straight forward.

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Very nice build! I love your experience coming through to choose alternative ways (from the kit) to fabricate some of the pieces. I wonder how thin wire would work for railing?

Look at me.... a near Newbie making a suggestion for future builds.....I need to stay in my very wide, flat, and straight lane and let the Tesla do the driving (I don't have a Tesla). :cool:
 
bowwild, Thanks
The railing is a real challenge. I did consider/try very thin piano wire. However, it is difficult to cut accurately using wire cutters and the other issue is gluing. I considered epoxy but that leaves a visible joint. So, went with styrene rod. Because of the scale, it's a difficult process! I got so frustrated at one point, almost decided not to add the railing. But it wouldn't look right. The new version of Harriet Lane, larger scale, has photoetched railing.

Appreciate the feedback!
 
Working on the DIY display case. Originally was going to build a wood frame case with glass inserts but decided it may be out of proportion due to the small scale of this build. So, opted for a polycarbonate top enclosure and wood base. The base frame is 3/4" pine and the baseboard 3/16" plywood, fairly inexpensive. Cut and shaped everything on my table saw including grooves for the polycarbonate. Sanded, stained and four fine coats of Clear Shellac.

Almost finished with the rigging, need to add the ships boats, odds & ends, some touchup and done!!!!

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Very fine craftmanship shown on the Harriet Lane. A nice addition to your collection.

Mike
 
FINISHED!! Interesting and challenging at times build but happy with the results. This is the first case I have built with plexiglass, a real learning experience. On to the next project.



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Always nice to see the completed model of a (side) wheeler. You can be proud with this result, Quint.
Regards, Peter
 
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