Very nice work!
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NEW BEDFORD WHALE BOAT by Mario 1/16 scale scratch build [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter teleman
- Start date
- Watchers 16
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- Tags
- completed build whaleboat
Thanks Doc. I am trying to get to the rigging on my Hannah asap. Then i can devout the majority of my time to the whaleboat.
I'll be posting more on Hannah soon. I've kind of put her on hold as I contemplate how to handle the problem with the straight keelson on the plans and the rising keelson, aft, in reality! I think I've solved it!
Will get back to this soon I hope. But been going to memorials for friends and families since no funerals are allowed.
Thanks Shota it's a pleasure to have you stop by. Thanks you all the LIKES too!
HI EVERYONE,
I HAVE FINALLY GOT TO MY LITTLE BOAT HERE. WELL AT 1/16 SCALE SHE IS KINDA BIG FOR A LITTLE BOAT.
I started with the center board trunk cap. I made the lifting strap from brass which I'll show later because I forgot. What I did was indent the centerboard top edge then all i have to do is push the board up, a dab of glue to an eye bolt place on center board, let dry and it's done. Of course i will have the strap already fastened to the eye bolt when I do this. I also decided to glue the twart's as I went along. The instructions wanted the twarts glued in ahead of this step, but it made it easier to get my hands in there to do little stuff. So the 2 middle twarts had to be glued in place to the centerboard trunk as should in the instructions, not just to the port and starboard sides of the boat.
The Peak Cleats looked to be a challenge. With different bevels in all directions. I first drew the lines for location of the bevels. The size of the cleats are 1"x1/4"x1/8". I worked on the side bevels first. Using my little hand plane to start the bevel. i could only do so much. Then i used the plane to do the face of the cleat. I only took enough off to get close to the bevel I wanted. The rest of the way was using the sanding stick to get the shape. Actually it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. There was a total of 4 to do. Three went glued in place on the starboard side. One went to the port. What I am liking a lot about my boat is I made sure the floor board and little gaps. Not a clean fit, because reading about these boats they were made fast and not show room quality. I plan on displaying the boat with most of the gear out of the boat.
I HAVE FINALLY GOT TO MY LITTLE BOAT HERE. WELL AT 1/16 SCALE SHE IS KINDA BIG FOR A LITTLE BOAT.
I started with the center board trunk cap. I made the lifting strap from brass which I'll show later because I forgot. What I did was indent the centerboard top edge then all i have to do is push the board up, a dab of glue to an eye bolt place on center board, let dry and it's done. Of course i will have the strap already fastened to the eye bolt when I do this. I also decided to glue the twart's as I went along. The instructions wanted the twarts glued in ahead of this step, but it made it easier to get my hands in there to do little stuff. So the 2 middle twarts had to be glued in place to the centerboard trunk as should in the instructions, not just to the port and starboard sides of the boat.
The Peak Cleats looked to be a challenge. With different bevels in all directions. I first drew the lines for location of the bevels. The size of the cleats are 1"x1/4"x1/8". I worked on the side bevels first. Using my little hand plane to start the bevel. i could only do so much. Then i used the plane to do the face of the cleat. I only took enough off to get close to the bevel I wanted. The rest of the way was using the sanding stick to get the shape. Actually it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. There was a total of 4 to do. Three went glued in place on the starboard side. One went to the port. What I am liking a lot about my boat is I made sure the floor board and little gaps. Not a clean fit, because reading about these boats they were made fast and not show room quality. I plan on displaying the boat with most of the gear out of the boat.
Another update on the little details this whale boat has a bunch of....
HI EVERYONE,
JUST GOT A LITTLE BUSY WITH THINGS AROUND THE HOUSE, BUT I AM BACK TO MODELING AGAIN. FINISHING UP THE STIFFNERS AND THE FOOT BRACE WHICH ARE NOW COMPLETED. THEN THE PREVENTER CLEATS WHICH I MADE FROM 1/8" SQUARE BOXWOOD WHERE NEXT.
AS FOR THE THIGH BOARD IT WAS FAIRLY SIMPLE. I HAD TO DRILL HOLES FOR THE LIFTING STRAP, KICKING STRAP, AND THE CLUMSY CLEAT ALL LOCATED ON THE THIGH BOARD. ONCE DONE I DID NOT INSTALL THE BOARD BECAUSE I HAD TO WORK WITH THE TREADED "BOX". WHY DO I SAY THIS? WELL REMEMBER I STARTED THIS LOG A FEW YEARS BACK AND THEN I GOT BUSY. I LEFT FOR ALMOST 2 YRS. STUPID ME WHEN I READ THRU RONNBERG's BOOK I CAME TO THE BOX. I DIDN'T AGREE WITH THE RONNBERG's INSTRUCTIONS AS TO WHEN TO DO THE BOX. I MADE MY PLANS, BUT TOTALLY FORGOT. WHICH MADE BUILDING THE BOX A ROYAL PAIN THE BUTT!!! I WAS PLANNING ON MAKING TEMPLATES OF THE BOX BEFORE THE INWALES, BOX CHOCKS, GUNWALES, AND THE CHEEKS WHERE ALL INSTALLED. BY FORGETTING TO DO SO, EVERYTHING WAS IN THE WAY AND BUILDING THE BOX TURNED INTO A PAIN. IF I HAD REMEMBERED HOW I WAS GOING TO GO ABOUT BUILDING THE BOX IT WOULD OF BEEN A BREEZE TO DO. "STUPID ME".
I PRIDE MYSELF THAT I TRY TO LOOK AHEAD AND PLAN THINGS WAY AHEAD OF TIME TO MAKE THINGS EASY ON ME. PRACTICUMS ARE GOOD BUT TO ME THEY ARE MORE LIKE THE "PIRATES CODE".....MORE LIKE GUIDELINES. LOL!
SO HERE WE GO....
JUST GOT A LITTLE BUSY WITH THINGS AROUND THE HOUSE, BUT I AM BACK TO MODELING AGAIN. FINISHING UP THE STIFFNERS AND THE FOOT BRACE WHICH ARE NOW COMPLETED. THEN THE PREVENTER CLEATS WHICH I MADE FROM 1/8" SQUARE BOXWOOD WHERE NEXT.
AS FOR THE THIGH BOARD IT WAS FAIRLY SIMPLE. I HAD TO DRILL HOLES FOR THE LIFTING STRAP, KICKING STRAP, AND THE CLUMSY CLEAT ALL LOCATED ON THE THIGH BOARD. ONCE DONE I DID NOT INSTALL THE BOARD BECAUSE I HAD TO WORK WITH THE TREADED "BOX". WHY DO I SAY THIS? WELL REMEMBER I STARTED THIS LOG A FEW YEARS BACK AND THEN I GOT BUSY. I LEFT FOR ALMOST 2 YRS. STUPID ME WHEN I READ THRU RONNBERG's BOOK I CAME TO THE BOX. I DIDN'T AGREE WITH THE RONNBERG's INSTRUCTIONS AS TO WHEN TO DO THE BOX. I MADE MY PLANS, BUT TOTALLY FORGOT. WHICH MADE BUILDING THE BOX A ROYAL PAIN THE BUTT!!! I WAS PLANNING ON MAKING TEMPLATES OF THE BOX BEFORE THE INWALES, BOX CHOCKS, GUNWALES, AND THE CHEEKS WHERE ALL INSTALLED. BY FORGETTING TO DO SO, EVERYTHING WAS IN THE WAY AND BUILDING THE BOX TURNED INTO A PAIN. IF I HAD REMEMBERED HOW I WAS GOING TO GO ABOUT BUILDING THE BOX IT WOULD OF BEEN A BREEZE TO DO. "STUPID ME".
I PRIDE MYSELF THAT I TRY TO LOOK AHEAD AND PLAN THINGS WAY AHEAD OF TIME TO MAKE THINGS EASY ON ME. PRACTICUMS ARE GOOD BUT TO ME THEY ARE MORE LIKE THE "PIRATES CODE".....MORE LIKE GUIDELINES. LOL!
SO HERE WE GO....
NOW WHERE RONNBERG's BOOK IS SUPERB FOR BUILDING THE BOAT, I DO FAVOR ANSEL's BOOK THE WHALEBOAT IS GREAT FOR ADDING DETAILS TO THE BOAT. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO KNOW ME KNOW HOW I AM. I TRY TO MAKE MY MODEL MY OWN, BY CHANGING THINGS UP. IN ANSEL's BOOK HE SHOWS THE N.B. BOAT WITH A MAST TROUGH AND A JIB SAIL. SO I WILL BE GOING IN THAT DIRECTION TO MAKE MY MODEL DIFFENT FROM OTHER MODELS OF THE BOAT.
HERE ARE A FEW PICS OF WHY I WENT IN THIS DIRECTION.....
HERE ARE A FEW PICS OF WHY I WENT IN THIS DIRECTION.....
HERE ARE FEW PICS OF ME ADDING THE TROUGH. NOTHING IS GLUED EXCEPT THE LARGER TWART. I NEEDED THE TWART GLUED SO I CAN BETTER FIT THE TROUGH AND THE LAST TWART AT THE BOW.
OK WERE DID WE LEAVE OFF AT. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF BUILDING THE TROUGH FOR THE BOAT.
I BUILT THE WHOLE TROUGH AWAY FROM THE MODEL. IT MADE THE PROCESS EASIER, AND MADE IT SIMPLE TO LINES THINGS UP...
I BUILT THE WHOLE TROUGH AWAY FROM THE MODEL. IT MADE THE PROCESS EASIER, AND MADE IT SIMPLE TO LINES THINGS UP...
THE NEXT 2 PHOTOS OF THROUGH ALSO SHOW SOME OF THE gaping OF THE FLOORING. I DID THIS BY USING CARD IN BETWEEN EACH FLOOR. WHEN YOU READ ABOUT THESE BOATS, THEY WERE BUILT AND THEY WERE BUILT FAST. SO THEY WERE BUILT ROUGH. WITH GAPS HERE AND THERE. I JUST WANTED MY BOAT A LITTLE CLOSE TO THE REAL THING.
NOW THE CHOCK LOCATED AT THE BOW IS WHERE THE WHALE LINE WOULD RUN WHEN A WHALE WAS SPEARED. THE CHOCK WAS PROTECTED BY A BRASS, LEAD, LIGNUM VITAE, WHALEBONE OR A ROLLER. THE KIT PROVIDER A ROLLER, BUT MY FRIEND USED IT WHEN I GAVE HIM THIS KIT. I USED A FISH WEIGHT OF COURSE MADE OF LEAD AND SHAPED IT TO FIT. IF YOU HAVE NOTICE THE HOLES DRILLED IN THE BOX ARE IN A TRIANGULAR SHAPE. THEY DRILLED IN THIS PATTERN OR A DIAMOND SHAPE. NOW THEY NOT FOR DRAINAGE BUT FOR THE CHOCK PINS. THE PINS WERE USED TO HELP KEEP THE WHALE LINE FROM JUMPING OUT OF THE CHOCK.
THEY SAY IF THE CHOCK WASN'T PROTECTED IN THIS CASE WITH LEAD THE CHOCK AND STEM POST WOULD BARELY LAST ONE SEASON, IT WOULD WEAR DOWN VERY FAST.
AND NOW ONWARD TO THE BUILDING OF THE TABERNACLE. THIS MODEL IS A LOT OF FUN, BECAUSE IT HAS A LOT OF LITTLE BITS TO DO HERE AND THERE WHICH I ENJOYING MAKING...
NOW THE CHOCK LOCATED AT THE BOW IS WHERE THE WHALE LINE WOULD RUN WHEN A WHALE WAS SPEARED. THE CHOCK WAS PROTECTED BY A BRASS, LEAD, LIGNUM VITAE, WHALEBONE OR A ROLLER. THE KIT PROVIDER A ROLLER, BUT MY FRIEND USED IT WHEN I GAVE HIM THIS KIT. I USED A FISH WEIGHT OF COURSE MADE OF LEAD AND SHAPED IT TO FIT. IF YOU HAVE NOTICE THE HOLES DRILLED IN THE BOX ARE IN A TRIANGULAR SHAPE. THEY DRILLED IN THIS PATTERN OR A DIAMOND SHAPE. NOW THEY NOT FOR DRAINAGE BUT FOR THE CHOCK PINS. THE PINS WERE USED TO HELP KEEP THE WHALE LINE FROM JUMPING OUT OF THE CHOCK.
THEY SAY IF THE CHOCK WASN'T PROTECTED IN THIS CASE WITH LEAD THE CHOCK AND STEM POST WOULD BARELY LAST ONE SEASON, IT WOULD WEAR DOWN VERY FAST.
AND NOW ONWARD TO THE BUILDING OF THE TABERNACLE. THIS MODEL IS A LOT OF FUN, BECAUSE IT HAS A LOT OF LITTLE BITS TO DO HERE AND THERE WHICH I ENJOYING MAKING...
This has been the most informative and illustrated build log of what initially appears as a small boat but you have brought great analysis and detailing into your finishing stages. A lot of the double checking and corrections at the front end have made this possible as I would see it. It is interesting how similar this boat and process are to the canoe builds which have a less stringent control and more of a personal appearance nature based upon the first canoe that I did and second one in progress. On that side, I am very new to ship and modeling so there is much to learn and carry forward. You log has presented a lot if things that I will try to recall as I go forward with my first larger than a canoe Bluenose 3/16 to the foot scale. Thanks for your work. PT-2HELLO,
I DECIDED TO PAINT THE BOAT. THE INBOARD WOULD BE YELLOW AND THE HULL GREEN. THE FRAMES WERE DONE IN SWISS PEAR. I PAINTED IN HIGH GLOSS BECAUSE THE SHINE HELP BRING OUT ANY PERFECTIONS TO DEAL WITH AND CLEAR UP. AFTER THAT I WILL BE ADDING A DULL CLEAR COAT SO IT WILL LOOK A LOT BETTER.
cheers Mario.......
Very informative report of your work - and also very good work 
Thank you very much Uwe n PT
PT, Uwe I try to do the best I can on explaining my process. When I first started building boat. I would find wonderful built models and some showed step by step as they progress. But the majority never explained how they made such a beautiful piece as they went along. Just showing it in place. So I try to show my journey as to how i got to my finished piece. I figured it would or might help others take out the guess work. Maybe my way won't work for them, but a least they have an idea on which direction they can go to get to that finished product. You the canoe build. I am seriously consider to join that group and build a couple of those little boats. They look fun to do. Thanks again guys
PT, Uwe I try to do the best I can on explaining my process. When I first started building boat. I would find wonderful built models and some showed step by step as they progress. But the majority never explained how they made such a beautiful piece as they went along. Just showing it in place. So I try to show my journey as to how i got to my finished piece. I figured it would or might help others take out the guess work. Maybe my way won't work for them, but a least they have an idea on which direction they can go to get to that finished product. You the canoe build. I am seriously consider to join that group and build a couple of those little boats. They look fun to do. Thanks again guys
Now to finish off the Tabernacle and trough area. And adding extra little bits for the jib sail. Now I am not good at all with metal working. My parents couldn't afford much, so I could only go to wood shop in high school. No metal shop. Oh well. Working with metal never interested me anyway. So used my mini band-saw to cut out what I needed for making the mast hinge from a brass sheet. After that a little filing and sanding to take the rough away and there you go.
I then traced it over the swiss pear I used for completed the hinge. I drilled the hole small at first and once ifigure which nails to use I real drilled to a bigger set of holes, and at the same time pre-drilling the wood. I just then pressed the nail in place and I was done.
I also pre-drilled the holes for pins before i cut out the pattern. Holding on the a big piece of brass just made common sense to me!
If you notice the flat strip of brass at the upper right. What I did was fold it over and made sure the brass rod for the hinge pin fit properly. Then I took the roll out of it and took a measurement. Then I knew how long to make tongue for the 3 pieces used to make the hinge. Yes i could just made them longer, but it just seemed easier and worked out better for me.
I then traced it over the swiss pear I used for completed the hinge. I drilled the hole small at first and once ifigure which nails to use I real drilled to a bigger set of holes, and at the same time pre-drilling the wood. I just then pressed the nail in place and I was done.
I also pre-drilled the holes for pins before i cut out the pattern. Holding on the a big piece of brass just made common sense to me!
If you notice the flat strip of brass at the upper right. What I did was fold it over and made sure the brass rod for the hinge pin fit properly. Then I took the roll out of it and took a measurement. Then I knew how long to make tongue for the 3 pieces used to make the hinge. Yes i could just made them longer, but it just seemed easier and worked out better for me.
The next few pics show how the mast hinge came together....
I can pretty call this area done, except for the drilling of the hole for the mast. The instruction say to do this ahead of time. For me I figured I can better locate where the mast hole should be placed.
Like I mentioned earlier. I was going with not just the main sail, but also add the jib. It required me to add a few more bits at the bow. The jib cleats and jib staple. The staple was in some boats just for the simple reason that they would at times run the line to the jib thru a staple located just under the chock.
Like I mentioned earlier. I was going with not just the main sail, but also add the jib. It required me to add a few more bits at the bow. The jib cleats and jib staple. The staple was in some boats just for the simple reason that they would at times run the line to the jib thru a staple located just under the chock.
I DID THIS WORK YESTERDAY AND TOTALLY FORGOT TO POT IT.....
HI EVERYONE....
Now for the thwart knees and the pads. I decided to use basswod because the thwarts were boxwood. Since both are light colored I figured it would make for a nice contrast. I pre- bended one of the strips ahead of the knees. No reason.
Once I figured the curve to the knee I made a little template so I would have the same curve for all 12 knees.
Made all the knees a little proud so I could just do a little sanding in place, till they were flush with the wales. The one knee to the extreme left is completed.
Even though I pre- bended the strips I Soaked the strips for about a minute and placed them on the knees and cloths pinned them for a few minutes so they would conform to the curve on the knee. I cut them to length and glued them in place afterwards. Per the practicum this was going to be done with 2 lamination's. The clothes worked very well, because the inside of the pin was of course wood and rounded which helped keeping the pin from leaving a mark on the soft basswood.
working on the 2nd lamination.
Both lamination's in place, glued, sanded, and ready for wipe-on poly. The two different tones of light colored wood came out real nice for my taste.
And how I left it last night. Just a little finish and we be done.
HI EVERYONE....
Now for the thwart knees and the pads. I decided to use basswod because the thwarts were boxwood. Since both are light colored I figured it would make for a nice contrast. I pre- bended one of the strips ahead of the knees. No reason.
Once I figured the curve to the knee I made a little template so I would have the same curve for all 12 knees.
Made all the knees a little proud so I could just do a little sanding in place, till they were flush with the wales. The one knee to the extreme left is completed.
Even though I pre- bended the strips I Soaked the strips for about a minute and placed them on the knees and cloths pinned them for a few minutes so they would conform to the curve on the knee. I cut them to length and glued them in place afterwards. Per the practicum this was going to be done with 2 lamination's. The clothes worked very well, because the inside of the pin was of course wood and rounded which helped keeping the pin from leaving a mark on the soft basswood.
working on the 2nd lamination.
Both lamination's in place, glued, sanded, and ready for wipe-on poly. The two different tones of light colored wood came out real nice for my taste.
And how I left it last night. Just a little finish and we be done.