Wouldn't it widen the hull. The planks would sit on the diagonal from front corner of the bulkhead one side to the back corner on the other (less fairing).
Wouldn't it widen the hull. The planks would sit on the diagonal from front corner of the bulkhead one side to the back corner on the other (less fairing).
Of course, it would also make a plywood underdeck unlikely to fit nicely without trimming. Whether that's a problem might depend on the particular model?
It depends on the angle and mostly on the bulkhead thickness, but yes, you're right, small angles would actually widen the total width. I took a simplistic approach. And it does get a bit more complicated when considering that. With this example and a 0.25" bulkhead, width actually increases up to 4", then reduces after that. Highlighting how little all of this really changes.
For the above example, say a 2 degree error, the side to the back corner would narrow by about 0.002", the other side would narrow by the same 0.002" but the thickness of the bulkhead (say 0.25" for this example) would extend out further by 0.009". Making the ship lop-sided, one side being 0.002" narrower, the other being 0.007" wider. Even at 7 degrees, the difference side-to-side is under 1/32". Again, I doubt the difference would be noticeable or would in any way affect the construction.
Yeah, I'm an engineer, and had to make myself a spreadsheet. My wife hates that. Most of you probably do to. But it's my lot in life.
Wanna see a graph?
Again, the width changes by a tiny amount. Of course, if the off-kilter bulkhead is used as a visible bulkhead, that could be visible. Actually, one of the bulkheads on my Ragusian Carrack ended up crooked and IS visible as an above-deck wall. And off by about the 2 degrees above, or more, I'd say. I never noticed the difference, until cutting deck pieces, but it's there. I also cannot see any error in the end result with my eyes, although I could measure it. But that's kind of worst case.
Well that's how I do it when the slots are sloppy. It works well. make sure the extra bits are well clear of the planking zone tho.
Wanna see a graph?
Please. I'm an ex-engineer.
How big is the fore and aft displacement of the 'ears' of the bulkhead.
You are correct Smithy... On this model the sub-deck has slots that mate with the bulkhead "ears" or tabs. If a bulkhead is mis-aligned the deck will not fit properly. Of course, one could remove the interferences and go on with life. That is unless one wants to do it the proper way and fix the mistake.
...henry
Smithy... no such thing as an EX-engineer.
Indeed but on the understanding that it's up to the individual modeller to decide what their proper way will be.
Exactly my thoughts--you'll want to do a lot of fairing anyway.
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Hi, just logged in and saw this stream. If it's PVA or any resin based aliphatic or epoxy glue, just wave a hair dryer with a nozzle at any offending joints and apply slight pressure, the glue will start to plasticise and move and then when it's in the position that you want blow cold air over it and it will quickly set again and retain it's position. Low heat will not work for CA glues because they are cross-linked and you need very high temperatures
Not a mess... simply artifacts and features.If you'd seen the mess I made of my model this evening...
Indeed, the human touch on which I place such a high valueNot a mess... simply artifacts and features.
To be honest, when I realised that my concentration was poor, I put the lid on the glue and walked away before I could add too many artefacts and features.
It's more than just about hull width and shape. Some bulkhead affect the outer features of the ship such as bulkheads, side galleries, and steps in the bulwark rails, not to mention it would make fitting a false deck with slots for the frames impossible. Also, sloppy bulkhead positioning can create a twist in the hull. Setting the framework as perfectly as possible forms the basis for the fitment of many things later on. Use small wood blocks glued to the false keel and bulkheads to keep them perpendicular as the glue dries. I would not accept leaving that bulkhead if it were my model.
Use reinforcement blocks to preserve bulkhead alignment.
ALWAYS use a keel clamp to prevent hull twist as you begin first planking.
Example of hull twist... it SUCKS and cannot be corrected later:
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Use square blocks not those clips, they don't hold firm enough and don't coversufficient area of the bulkhead.
Break the bond and reglue. It's simple.
