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New picture of bad gluing by me Haha

Once it’s set, I don’t think water will help much, but never tried alcohol (for that purpose). You could use a hot air gun to soften the glue a bit and then shove some spacers betweenthe bulheads to hold them parallel to each other
 
well! if you cannot get it apart plan B is to cut both sides of the bulkhead where it meets the center profile then reglue the two halves back on the profile using little blocks to reinforce the joint.
 
I have used razor blades, the kind that are reinforced at the top. I cut, slowly but surely pressed a blade from both sides until I got the frame free.
When I glued the frame back in, I reinforced it with a couple of square pieces of wood.
I have tried water too but you have to have hot water and for quite a long time. Causes more damage to the wood.
If it doesn't work to detach, it is better to saw as Dave writes, I think.
On one hull, I wiggled the frame carefully back and forth until it was so loose that I could prop it up with the help of the adjacent frame with pieces of wood.
 
I watched a YouTube video (which or where from I don't recall) where a modeller used steam from a kettle to separate parts... Never had to try it but it seemed to work OK.
 
Isopropyl alcohol, 70% or higher, dampen a rag (don't soak it), then press into all 4 corners where the bulkhead meets the backbone/keel, for a few seconds. Then gently attempt to move the bulkhead. Rinse and repeat if needed. Don't be too forceful or you will ultimately be using Dave's method. Dave's suggestion works fine, but it's my experience that it's best to avoid surgery unless it's absolutely necessary. The heat gun works as well, but be sure to make sure the heat is only applied to the join you want to treat, else the glue on other joins could be affected :)
 
‘Goo Gone’ works well. Brush it into the joint then use a blade to loosen and remove. I’ve had to realign bulkheads on several kits and this has always done the job.
 
Obviously it's better at the outset to ensure that the bulkheads are square to the keel. I achieved this by gluing on to one side of each bulkhead a piece of square wood, available at any well-stocked DIY store, ensuring the length of the square piece doesn't Interfere with the surface of each bulkhead to be planked.
 
My initial thought is: Why bother? While it's nice that bulkheads are square to the keel, having them off a bit will not change the contour by any real amount. (By my measurements, the bulkhead is less than 2% off, so width would be affected by less than 0.1%). Strength will not be affected. They will be covered, so no way to see the error after completion. And any fixed result may not be as strong. So, I wouldn't bother changing it. But then I'm lazy.
 
I seriously think that if you don't straighten it up you will regret it hugely when you get to planking the hull. Just my opinion but I would be interested to know what others more skillful than I think. I always thought that that very first stage of getting everything square to the false keel was all important.?
 
Mike Dowling said:
I seriously think that if you don't straighten it up you will regret it hugely when you get to planking the hull. Just my opinion but I would be interested to know what others more skillful than I think. I always thought that that very first stage of getting everything square to the false keel was all important.?
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I considered planking when I answered too. If you used exposed nails, the difference might be noticeable, but since we usually don't, I see no problem with planking. Again, though, that's just me.
 
Signet said:
My initial thought is: Why bother? While it's nice that bulkheads are square to the keel, having them off a bit will not change the contour by any real amount. (By my measurements, the bulkhead is less than 2% off, so width would be affected by less than 0.1%). Strength will not be affected. They will be covered, so no way to see the error after completion. And any fixed result may not be as strong. So, I wouldn't bother changing it. But then I'm lazy.
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I actually think you are right, Signet. The fairing, planking and sanding processes will all probably introduce much bigger errors than the slightly off-square bulkhead. But then I'm lazy too. ROTF
 
Smithy said:
I actually think you are right, Signet. The fairing, planking and sanding processes will all probably introduce much bigger errors than the slightly off-square bulkhead. But then I'm lazy too. ROTF
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Right. To give it some numbers, a 2 degree out-of-square plank would narrow a 6" wide model to 5.996" (4/1000" narrower). Heck, 5 degrees out of square would only go to 5.977"m about half a millimeter. And that's at the maximum width, with less difference elsewhere, and the ONLY change would be the width. I can see no world where that would matter (except for those that would say, only during construction photos and not afterwards, "Oh, I see you didn't get that square!"
 
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