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Thanks Mike, another thing to order so I can experiment
Occre Endurance (1:70) Build Log
- Thread starter KeithLyall
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Nice start to a fun kit to build. Keep up the good work and thanks for documenting your build.
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Thanks Jeff. Nice to see your Endurance build ... am always looking for inspiration from others.
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Been a couple of weeks since my last post and life has got in the way of progress. However have finally stained my deck with a natural oak furniture colouring ...
and then coated with beaten de jedea which I immediately rubbed off. This has given the deck a dirty used look which I was aiming for. The image below makes the decks look darker than they really are. To further enhance the worn/used look I also rubbed lightly with 400 grit sandpaper.
I also had to redo my tree nails with a pencil to darken them.
Due to the slight curve in the hull where the decks are glued I used masking tape. However to prevent the tape damaging my deck I made paper templates so that the tape was not directly on the deck surface.
and then coated with beaten de jedea which I immediately rubbed off. This has given the deck a dirty used look which I was aiming for. The image below makes the decks look darker than they really are. To further enhance the worn/used look I also rubbed lightly with 400 grit sandpaper.
I also had to redo my tree nails with a pencil to darken them.
Due to the slight curve in the hull where the decks are glued I used masking tape. However to prevent the tape damaging my deck I made paper templates so that the tape was not directly on the deck surface.
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Also went on a bit of a book splurge based on SoS members feedback on useful background reading/references. A bit of bedtime reading.
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Modification 4: Propellor
There are 2 modifications required. The shape of the propellor opening on a plan on Endurance is more rectangular than the curved opening on the Occre model. In fact on the plan there is a downward angle running from the stern towards the bow.
As such I have modified the hull accordingly.
In addition my understanding is the Endurance had a 2 bladed propellor rather than the 3 bladed version provided by Occre so I will need to source an appropriate blade but a job for another day.
There are 2 modifications required. The shape of the propellor opening on a plan on Endurance is more rectangular than the curved opening on the Occre model. In fact on the plan there is a downward angle running from the stern towards the bow.
As such I have modified the hull accordingly.
In addition my understanding is the Endurance had a 2 bladed propellor rather than the 3 bladed version provided by Occre so I will need to source an appropriate blade but a job for another day.
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Modification 1 (Continued)
I had previously cut an opening on the forward bulkhead beneath the foredeck. I have been unable to find any photographs, however a plan indicates a toilet and lamp room on port and starboard respectively plus a winch.
I constructed a wall and doorway ...
... and planked both before installing. Rather than just paint the bulkheads white as per the Occre instructions, I have cut 5mm strips (remains of strips used for the decking) into 3mm strips and applied those to the bulkheads which would be more realistic. As before there were bevelled slightly to give both depth and the impression of separate planks.
I have applied Betun De Judea to give a weathered affect. Rather than applying with a brush, I found that using kitchen towel was more effective to soak slightly into the tissue, and then gently rub on the surface before wiping away with a clean tissue. When too much was applied I brushed a very dilute white acrylic paint over the surface.
Modification 5: Additional edging
From images of the foredeck bulkhead, I have added an extra layer of edging just below the edging attached to the foredeck.
Below is the completed portion of the modification. I plan to allow construct a winch to slot under the foredeck.
The other end of the deck has 2 doors, which again I have replaced the Occre provided ones with my own ...
I had previously cut an opening on the forward bulkhead beneath the foredeck. I have been unable to find any photographs, however a plan indicates a toilet and lamp room on port and starboard respectively plus a winch.
I constructed a wall and doorway ...
... and planked both before installing. Rather than just paint the bulkheads white as per the Occre instructions, I have cut 5mm strips (remains of strips used for the decking) into 3mm strips and applied those to the bulkheads which would be more realistic. As before there were bevelled slightly to give both depth and the impression of separate planks.
I have applied Betun De Judea to give a weathered affect. Rather than applying with a brush, I found that using kitchen towel was more effective to soak slightly into the tissue, and then gently rub on the surface before wiping away with a clean tissue. When too much was applied I brushed a very dilute white acrylic paint over the surface.
Modification 5: Additional edging
From images of the foredeck bulkhead, I have added an extra layer of edging just below the edging attached to the foredeck.
Below is the completed portion of the modification. I plan to allow construct a winch to slot under the foredeck.
The other end of the deck has 2 doors, which again I have replaced the Occre provided ones with my own ...
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Modification 6: Edging below doors.
Having completed the 2 doors on the midship bulkhead, I realised a mistake with the doors on the accommodation build. I blindly followed the Occre instructions where the plan shows the bottom of the doors level with the deck. I suspect this would have been unlikely as that would have allowed water from the decks to flow into the accommodation.
Fortunately this was a simple fix to essentially raise the doors by removing the white planks above the door ...
... remove the door cross beams and insert new Cross beams at the appropriate height. Strips of white timber were glued at the bottom to provide a threshold.
Having completed the 2 doors on the midship bulkhead, I realised a mistake with the doors on the accommodation build. I blindly followed the Occre instructions where the plan shows the bottom of the doors level with the deck. I suspect this would have been unlikely as that would have allowed water from the decks to flow into the accommodation.
Fortunately this was a simple fix to essentially raise the doors by removing the white planks above the door ...
... remove the door cross beams and insert new Cross beams at the appropriate height. Strips of white timber were glued at the bottom to provide a threshold.
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Very nice, Keith. Those are great alterations.
I have found another - more explicit - picture of the deck shelter. This one is not in Hurley's book. It comes from 'The Shackleton Voyages', which can be purchased very cheaply on Amazon. This book deals with all of Shackleton's expeditions, so: Discovery, Nimrod, Endurance and Quest.
Notice the hull is still white in this picture. It was painted black in Buenos Aires to stand out against the ice. The suspension of the (life)boats was also changed considerably at a later stage, from in-board to out-board..
I have found another - more explicit - picture of the deck shelter. This one is not in Hurley's book. It comes from 'The Shackleton Voyages', which can be purchased very cheaply on Amazon. This book deals with all of Shackleton's expeditions, so: Discovery, Nimrod, Endurance and Quest.
Notice the hull is still white in this picture. It was painted black in Buenos Aires to stand out against the ice. The suspension of the (life)boats was also changed considerably at a later stage, from in-board to out-board..
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Thanks Mike for the positive feedback and for providing some additional info. I am enjoying the challenge of extending the model to try and be more realistic than the kit instructions. Went on a buying splurge yesterday to get replacement stanchions, life rings etc.
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Modification 7: Walkway between decks
In the Occre kit the walkway between the midship accommodation block and the aft deck area is continuous.
However historic pictures indicate that the 2 walkways are separate and sit on top of the deck as shown below.
As such I have cut off the walkways and applied the decking planks but left an overhang which will rest on the decks. In addition I completed the roof and edging on the living quarters.
A dry fit is as follows ...
In the Occre kit the walkway between the midship accommodation block and the aft deck area is continuous.
However historic pictures indicate that the 2 walkways are separate and sit on top of the deck as shown below.
As such I have cut off the walkways and applied the decking planks but left an overhang which will rest on the decks. In addition I completed the roof and edging on the living quarters.
A dry fit is as follows ...
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In addition to looking at photos in the book South with Endurance" I have also been referring to plans to identify other details.
Based on those plans I have added a winch beneath the foredeck ...
Although the anchor winch is largely hidden beneath the foredeck, nonetheless I decide to install one. Obviously this is not part of the kit so I created a winch of sorts from scrap timber. This also gave me the opportunity to try my hand at wood turning to create the drums which I have never down before. I used a 5mm dowel and model makers lathe, file and turning chisels. I was very pleased with the outcome given my first attempt as they not only resemble drums but they are the same size. Obviously I have taken some (ok quite a lot) poetic licence on the body but not a big deal as largely hidden anyway.
I have also drilled holes through the deck where the anchor chain would be stored plus holes through the bulkhead where the anchor chain would feed.
From this experience I would change 2 things:
1) I would make the gap that I cut in the forward bulkhead a bit wider.
2) I would have completed and installed the winch and chain BEFORE I glued the foredeck on.
Based on those plans I have added a winch beneath the foredeck ...
Although the anchor winch is largely hidden beneath the foredeck, nonetheless I decide to install one. Obviously this is not part of the kit so I created a winch of sorts from scrap timber. This also gave me the opportunity to try my hand at wood turning to create the drums which I have never down before. I used a 5mm dowel and model makers lathe, file and turning chisels. I was very pleased with the outcome given my first attempt as they not only resemble drums but they are the same size. Obviously I have taken some (ok quite a lot) poetic licence on the body but not a big deal as largely hidden anyway.
I have also drilled holes through the deck where the anchor chain would be stored plus holes through the bulkhead where the anchor chain would feed.
From this experience I would change 2 things:
1) I would make the gap that I cut in the forward bulkhead a bit wider.
2) I would have completed and installed the winch and chain BEFORE I glued the foredeck on.
Interesting research for the details - many thanks for sharing with us
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Progress on a number of miscellaneous areas ...
Completed edging on the accommodation block. Dry fit to see how it was looking.
Note when building the accommodation, there are a couple of lugs to fit into slots on the deck. I saw a number of builds where there were gaps between the wall of the block and the deck plans. As such I cut the lugs off the bottom of the accommodation block and have NOT opened up the corresponding slots in the deck.
Blackening of anchor chain and install of the winch and chain under the foredeck.
Note that I drilled holes through the hull to feed and attach the chain.
Added the ribs and added strips to simulate planking on the inside of the hull. You can never have enough small clamps
. I cut a short section of timber to act as a spacer when positioning the ribs (3rd picture).
Now starting to plank the hull ... starting to look ship like now.
Completed edging on the accommodation block. Dry fit to see how it was looking.
Note when building the accommodation, there are a couple of lugs to fit into slots on the deck. I saw a number of builds where there were gaps between the wall of the block and the deck plans. As such I cut the lugs off the bottom of the accommodation block and have NOT opened up the corresponding slots in the deck.
Blackening of anchor chain and install of the winch and chain under the foredeck.
Note that I drilled holes through the hull to feed and attach the chain.
Added the ribs and added strips to simulate planking on the inside of the hull. You can never have enough small clamps
. I cut a short section of timber to act as a spacer when positioning the ribs (3rd picture).Now starting to plank the hull ... starting to look ship like now.
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Well it has been a long time since I last posted but my model making projects are winter activities as my summers are taken up doing other projects. I have recently been distracted building a log cabin in the garden for general woodwork and wood turning projects but will also be perfect for the messy side of model making such as sanding.
Anyway back to my build of Endurance. Over the summer I did complete the 1st & 2nd layers of planking.
Modification 8: Anti Fouling
The Occre Endurance plans suggest painting the hull black. However a painting by George Marston, ships artist suggests that the lower part of the hull was painted with anti fouling paint. As such I have used Red Ochre paint.
To achieve a clean line between the red ochre and the black upper section of the hull, I used Frog Tape which is readily available in the UK. Note that I used the green tape as the orange tape is so sticky as to pull some planking off.
Modification 9: Upper rear hull curves
Following the recent discovery of Endurance and publication of images I noted a difference at the stern where there is an arc on the upper part of the hull. I used some offcuts from the laser cut panels and glued to the hull before planking. I did split planks down to 2-3 mm to simulate narrower planking as per the photograph.
Modification 10: Rear Bulwark
Based on photographs there is a small bulwark at the stern whereas the Occre instruction just glues the cap rail directly to the deck I laminated a curve using the plan as a guide. Woodfiller and sanding was required to provide a smooth transition with the main hull.
One area where I have deviated from the actual historic ship is to fit glazed port holes whereas on the actual ship those were recessed.
Modification 11: Bow Cap Rails
There are cap rails at the bow. I fashioned these from some 2mm ply, some scalpel skills and sanding. Below are dry fitted for the time being.
Finally wishing all fellow modellers a great festive season and a healthy, happy and productive 2025.
Anyway back to my build of Endurance. Over the summer I did complete the 1st & 2nd layers of planking.
Modification 8: Anti Fouling
The Occre Endurance plans suggest painting the hull black. However a painting by George Marston, ships artist suggests that the lower part of the hull was painted with anti fouling paint. As such I have used Red Ochre paint.
To achieve a clean line between the red ochre and the black upper section of the hull, I used Frog Tape which is readily available in the UK. Note that I used the green tape as the orange tape is so sticky as to pull some planking off.
Modification 9: Upper rear hull curves
Following the recent discovery of Endurance and publication of images I noted a difference at the stern where there is an arc on the upper part of the hull. I used some offcuts from the laser cut panels and glued to the hull before planking. I did split planks down to 2-3 mm to simulate narrower planking as per the photograph.
Modification 10: Rear Bulwark
Based on photographs there is a small bulwark at the stern whereas the Occre instruction just glues the cap rail directly to the deck I laminated a curve using the plan as a guide. Woodfiller and sanding was required to provide a smooth transition with the main hull.
One area where I have deviated from the actual historic ship is to fit glazed port holes whereas on the actual ship those were recessed.
Modification 11: Bow Cap Rails
There are cap rails at the bow. I fashioned these from some 2mm ply, some scalpel skills and sanding. Below are dry fitted for the time being.
Finally wishing all fellow modellers a great festive season and a healthy, happy and productive 2025.
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Best wishes to you this holiday season as well, Keith!