Ouch - be aware of the sawing machines!

A little late, but here are a coupe of articles (in English-sorry) on tablesaw kickback. It is a scary but preventable event!


and

@pebbleworm
Thank you for those articles. I watched them both. Had to look up what was meant by a "riving knife". Now I know what it is and its purpose, but my miniature table saw does not provide such a knife. I will certainly make some jigs before I use the saw again.
 
Hi Herman

Glad to hear you are on the mend.I am OK with breaks, blood severed limbs etc, but one mention of nail damage makes me cringe.Lost one nail once and never want to experience that again.
Food for thought;
Before moving to management,I had nearly 30 years on the Tools in heavy structural steel fabrication.Aside from a dislocated shoulder and a broken finger (every bone lengthways) all my injuries and the nastiest have been inflicted at home!
Highlights include falling off ladders and landing on the corner of a wall missing my spine by 1 inch.Certain paralysis I was told by the Doctor as the disc would of gone straight through my spine had the wall struck it.Instead 6 months of Physio as I ripped every Tendon in my lower back.
I once cut a long way through my wrist with an angle grinder to the extent of the main artery was in full view and all the skin either side had been ground away.This was working on a car at home.
Trust me,the list goes on.......

Guess the point I am trying to make is we all feel comfortable and perhaps complacent working on our models which in itself makes it riskier than the workplace where health and safety is mandatory.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Hello Nigel.

Thank you for your words.

You are right, the danger of injuries is greatest where and when you least expect it.
Last summer I renovated a toilet room for one of my daughters. She had borrowed a table saw for tiles from one of her colleagues. The thing was downright dangerous. Old, no fence, no guard, had to put a plastic tray with water under the blade to fix the cooling. I shouldn't have started, but at that day I could nor hire a better one in the neighborhood and didn't want to postpone it for a week. But under these circumstances you are extra aware of the danger and nothing happened, but I will not use that saw ever again.

Stitches have been removed today, luckily no inflammation. The top of my index finger is numb but I will have to give it some time to mend. I wonder how long it will take for a nail to regrow.
 
Stitches have been removed today, luckily no inflammation. The top of my index finger is numb but I will have to give it some time to mend. I wonder how long it will take for a nail to regrow.
Hi Herman. Good to hear there is progress in the healing of your finger. It amazes me how fast a healing process goes.
I am not an ‘experience expert’ for regrowing nails. ;)
Regards, Peter
 
Hello Nigel.

Thank you for your words.

You are right, the danger of injuries is greatest where and when you least expect it.
Last summer I renovated a toilet room for one of my daughters. She had borrowed a table saw for tiles from one of her colleagues. The thing was downright dangerous. Old, no fence, no guard, had to put a plastic tray with water under the blade to fix the cooling. I shouldn't have started, but at that day I could nor hire a better one in the neighborhood and didn't want to postpone it for a week. But under these circumstances you are extra aware of the danger and nothing happened, but I will not use that saw ever again.

Stitches have been removed today, luckily no inflammation. The top of my index finger is numb but I will have to give it some time to mend. I wonder how long it will take for a nail to regrow.

Herman

It is a good few years since I lost the nail.From memory it was quite a while but the relief is the area that was under the nail becomes less sensitive although yours is numb at the moment.Trust me when I say, that may be a blessing in the short-term.

It maybe quite a while before you get full feeling back, but it should return as I can't image you have severed every nerve.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Hi Uwe

I am seriously contemplating what to do with this table saw.

It is a Proxxon Fet, bought second hand, has seen better days and did not come with a blade guard. A blade guard might have prevented this incident, but on the other hand I understand that the blade guard is not valued by everyone and sometimes discarded.

After my recent experience I am somewhat -let's call it- reluctant (or outright afraid) to give it a second chance. What caused the fact that it launched the wood at me (ps. that happened once before) and so resulted in the incident? I am not certain.
Maybe a fresh blade would show some improvement, although i don't think the blade was worn out.

On the other hand I am not certain I would be less reluctant with an other table saw.. or is the praised Byrnes machine so confidence instilling that it might be worth the rather large investment to buy and have it shipped/customs cleared for the Netherlands. And live happily ever after:confused:.

But Uwe, you are right, one thing is certain, I need "her" or her substitute to carry on.

Herman
I have experienced a similar jamming of the wood. Aligning the fence with the saw blade solved the problem for me
A speedy recovery
 
The Byrnes table saw , was shooting the wood to myself all the time. Byrnes told me that after aligning the fence, I need to push the back a few millimeters and that will solve the issue.

Let me explaine this in a different way. Sorry I do not have the technical language. So let me try in this way :

The fence is at the right of the saw. The fence can be fixed in position with a front and back screw. The fence goes all along the table. Once I fixed the fence with the front screw, I need to push the back to the right and fix it with the screw.
If the strip I want to cut is 5 mm, the fence will be 5 mm from the saw at the start. But at the end will be ~6-7 mm from the saw , because I pushed it to the right and fixed there with the back screw.

Worked, the wood strips stopped being ejected against me.

Daniel
 
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The Byrnes table saw , was shooting the wood to myself all the time. Byrnes told me that after aligning the fence, I need to push the back a few millimeters and that will solve the issue.

Let me explaine this in a different way. Sorry I do not have the technical language. So let me try in this way :

The fence is at the right of the saw. The fence can be fixed in position with a front and back screw. The fence goes all along the table. Once I fixed the fence with the front screw, I need to push the back to the right and fix it with the screw.
If the strip I want to cut is 5 mm, the fence will be 5 mm from the saw at the start. But at the end will be ~6-7 mm from the saw , because I pushed it to the right and fixed there with the back screw.

Worked, the wood strips stopped being ejected against me.

Daniel
OK...when ripping wood on a tablesaw, the fence, at best is set absolutely parallel to the blade. But first, everything is aligned to a miter slot. The blade first, then the fence. If you have the fence a little off at the back side of the blade, kickback will occur. The solution? To SLIGHTLY adjust the rear of the fence a few thousandths so as to not pinch the stock between the fence and the blade. It doesn't matter if you're using a big saw or smaller saw, the same principles hold. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to align a tablesaw. Also consider using proper pushsticks and feather boards.
 
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The Byrnes table saw , was shooting the wood to myself all the time. Byrnes told me that after aligning the fence, I need to push the back a few millimeters and that will solve the issue.

Let me explaine this in a different way. Sorry I do not have the technical language. So let me try in this way :

The fence is at the right of the saw. The fence can be fixed in position with a front and back screw. The fence goes all along the table. Once I fixed the fence with the front screw, I need to push the back to the right and fix it with the screw.
If the strip I want to cut is 5 mm, the fence will be 5 mm from the saw at the start. But at the end will be ~6-7 mm from the saw , because I pushed it to the right and fixed there with the back screw.

Worked, the wood strips stopped being ejected against me.

Daniel

Thank you Daniel for your explanation. Everything clear. On the fet there is only one screw on the front. Before I resume working with the table I will check the alignment of the fence and try to give it some room at the back.
 
OK...when ripping wood on a tablesaw, the fence, at best is set absolutely parallel to the blade. But first, everything is aligned to amiter slot. The blade first, then the fence. If you have the fence a little off at the back side of the blade, kickback will occur. Yhe solution? To SLIGHTLY adjust the rear of the fence a few thousandths so as to not pinch the stock between the fence and the blade. It doesn't matter if you're using a big saw or smaller saw, the same principles hold. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to align a tablesaw. Also consider using proper pushsticks and feather boards.
Thank you Phil
I will check the alignment of the fence. I always use a pushstick but before resuming work with the table saw I will certainly make feather boards.
 
OK...when ripping wood on a tablesaw, the fence, at best is set absolutely parallel to the blade. But first, everything is aligned to amiter slot. The blade first, then the fence. If you have the fence a little off at the back side of the blade, kickback will occur. Yhe solution? To SLIGHTLY adjust the rear of the fence a few thousandths so as to not pinch the stock between the fence and the blade. It doesn't matter if you're using a big saw or smaller saw, the same principles hold. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to align a tablesaw. Also consider using proper pushsticks and feather boards.

Hi Philski

I am not an expert like you on woodworking , nevertheless, on my Byrnes table saw the kickback stopped when I placed the fence off in the back.

I was aligning the fence and always having kickback. To the point that I was afraid of using it. I was convinced I was doing something wrong. Decided to call and explain what was going on with Byrnes wife on the phone (she is the one who is the point of contact for all the buying process). She consulted with her husband, Byrnes (the designer of the table). He told me to do that. To put off the back of the fence.

And that was the solution !!! . No more kickback on my Byrnes table saw.

This is just what happened to me and the tip provided by Byrnes to solve my problem with my Byrnes table saw.

Could be this is useful for others Byrnes table saw owners.

Cheers
Daniel

Ps: after reading again your posting, I understand now that you are saying the same:
.....Yhe solution? To SLIGHTLY adjust the rear of the fence a few thousandths so as to not pinch the stock between the fence and the blade....

That is what happens when I push the fence off in the back.
 
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