-
LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
**VIEW THREAD HERE**
Should not have any issues in my opinion.
Thin rattle coat over acrylic primer should not give you any crazing or wrinkle problem. You may incur issues if you apply a heavy coat of rattle paint that stay wet for an extended period if time prior to drying off. Remember that a film being dry does not mean it is cured through - Cheers.
Well I know I am old fashioned but, I just don't like the idea of mixing different types of paints. If I want enamel then I use enamel start to finish, or acrylic end to end. Believe me I am no expert, just stating my own feeling on the subject.
I will put acrylics over an enamel primer coat, but not the other way around. Probably just the styrene junkie in me (shhh! don't tell anyone!)
I would take into account the consequence of the paint failing, even if the probability is low. If the painted area is accessible and resanding and repainting would be relatively easy then it's worth the risk. If not, go carefully and use paints known to be compatible and, to be even more careful, do a test piece. Fair winds!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2022
- Messages
- 1,442
- Points
- 443
Curiouser and curiouser. I do it the other way round. Oils and enamels are stable over acrylic primers but never the other way round. ‘Oil will float on water’ is the usual way to remember it.
However, don’t trust anyone, even me. Follow Andy’s suggestion and do a test piece.
Truth be told, I generally use normal automotive primer and I really am not sure whether it's enamel or lacquer. I do know it gets better adhesion on plastic, metal and wood than the acrylic primers I have used.
This is probably not answering your question directly, but i just build two high end cars from Italeri ( Alfa Romeo Monza) using all enamel, then another Italeri Bugatti 35B and it was all Acrylic. The difference I notice is that the Acrylic "covers" the part, the Enamel "bonds" to the part. I guess if the part(s) are left alone and not handled much, I guess any type of paint to layer another would be fine.
With my Alfa Romeo being painted in enamel, I did go back with a black Acrylic wash and it did a good effect. The Acrylic had a tendency to "float" on the enamel - then when the Acrylic dried, it gave a realistic worn effect.
With my Alfa Romeo being painted in enamel, I did go back with a black Acrylic wash and it did a good effect. The Acrylic had a tendency to "float" on the enamel - then when the Acrylic dried, it gave a realistic worn effect.
I agree 100% with Smithy
You may be lucky enough to have an enamel dry over top of an acrylic without orange peel effect, but it will never truly adhere to the surface in my experience.
Bonjour,
un conseil simple mis en pratique depuis de nombreuses années.
ceci m'a été donné par un expert modéliste du Musée de la Marine à Paris.
« Pour ce qui est de la peinture, le gras (émail, huile) sur le maigre (acrylique) fonctionne bien, et non l'inverse.
ce conseil concerne les modèles statiques. Je l'applique depuis de nombreuses années et je n'ai jamais été déçu. Je précise que j'utilise dans le cas cité des peintures acryliques et des apprêts Tamiya et Vallejo avec des émaux Humbrol. (beaucoup plus aléatoire avec les acryliques Italeri et Lifecolor et de plus je ne connais pas la réaction potentielle avec les peintures AK ET MIG).
un conseil simple mis en pratique depuis de nombreuses années.
ceci m'a été donné par un expert modéliste du Musée de la Marine à Paris.
« Pour ce qui est de la peinture, le gras (émail, huile) sur le maigre (acrylique) fonctionne bien, et non l'inverse.
ce conseil concerne les modèles statiques. Je l'applique depuis de nombreuses années et je n'ai jamais été déçu. Je précise que j'utilise dans le cas cité des peintures acryliques et des apprêts Tamiya et Vallejo avec des émaux Humbrol. (beaucoup plus aléatoire avec les acryliques Italeri et Lifecolor et de plus je ne connais pas la réaction potentielle avec les peintures AK ET MIG).
Hello,
a simple piece of advice that has been put into practice for many years.
this was given to me by a modeling expert from the Musée de la Marine in Paris.
"As for painting, fat (enamel, oil) on lean (acrylic) works well, and not the other way around.
this advice concerns static models. I have been applying it for many years and have never been disappointed. I would like to point out that in the case mentioned I use Tamiya and Vallejo acrylic paints and primers with Humbrol enamels. (much more random with Italeri and Lifecolor acrylics and I also do not know the potential reaction with AK and MIG paints).
a simple piece of advice that has been put into practice for many years.
this was given to me by a modeling expert from the Musée de la Marine in Paris.
"As for painting, fat (enamel, oil) on lean (acrylic) works well, and not the other way around.
this advice concerns static models. I have been applying it for many years and have never been disappointed. I would like to point out that in the case mentioned I use Tamiya and Vallejo acrylic paints and primers with Humbrol enamels. (much more random with Italeri and Lifecolor acrylics and I also do not know the potential reaction with AK and MIG paints).
Sorry for the repetition but I didn't know if Google translate worked.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2019
- Messages
- 351
- Points
- 168
What make of paint. I thought I was using Humbrol spray ENAMELS until I read the label years later and found they were acrylic! Acrylic is plastic based, so it's the same as spraying a plastic kit. Since acrylic dries and sticks hard to the surface I don't see any problems arising. Though if you can get Humbrol acrylic spray they are quick drying and when fully hardened can be give a light polish with 0000 steel wool. This give perhaps the best finish possible.