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Patination / distressing

jimmystratos

jimmystratos

Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
266
Points
168

Location
Melrose, Scotland
Does any body add wear & tear or ageing effects to their models? All photos I see of models are in a prisitine, clean presentation, unlike the real thing with staining, wear, rust, verdegris etc. I got to thinking about this after reading the threads on staining sailcloth for realism.
 
It's one of the things I wish I had done is to have a real measure of how much longer it took because of the weathering, but I've never done it

For the most part of the ship its
Cutting a piece gluing in place and sanding
Vs
Cutting a piece, stain, dry, varnish, dry, chipping fluid, dry, paint, dry, chip, touches with sandpaper or file, glue

I would say it takes me 4 or 5 times longer than it would simply assembling the kit no weathering and no painting

Add the filming, editing and trying and failing most times to build the ship in an angle that can be filmed and keeping what I'm doing in frame, I'm probably at 6 times slower than it would take me to simply assemble the kit

But it's all part of the fun, and if I did it faster I would have to spend more money buying the next one

Considering that on the weathered look I don't need to have the perfect fitting on the wood I would say that is the only step where some time is saved
 
Hi Jimmy, I do not like much the models as if they were launched “yesterday” or on the contrary “ghost ships”. I think virtue is in the middle. Ships in good condition but used.
In my Nepomuceno I used several techniques like dry brushing, waterings, wood inks and brushing with alcohol.
I hope it will help
Greetings
Jaime

54147FC2-7215-44D4-90A4-F3A99A53627C.jpeg26DC11A2-6D83-43F9-AAA7-F98F5513110E.jpeg7B950E3F-109F-45FC-A813-7DFE68307AB1.jpeg419770E0-B3C9-4511-87E0-95B4E7099174.jpeg
 
shelk, your weathering is spot on. In my youth I had many happy hours on the North Sea fishing cobbles and saw plenty of old wooden trawlers. They were working boats, in constant use with no time or money for paint and varnish. They were worn out long before all the paint wore away. Your finish is just as I remember.
 
thank you @pugwash

@jimmystratos
One thing you need to know, if you are going to weather to the extent i did, or even more, and if you are going to publish your work, depending on where you post it, for example here on SoS the community is nice and mellow and above all respctfull, but especially on facebook you will come across a decent ammount of people that have the need to tell you how historically inacurate you are by weathering so much, and if you do rusty cannons (seems to be the ultimate crime), well then some people almost seem offended by such a crime, i get that not everyone likes the look, and that's perfectly fine, but some people that have the need to go out of their way to explain to me how cannons cannot in any way be rusty.

So in some places, you might find yourself in the position of explaining that realism doesn't have to equal historical accuracy

So, be prepared, or do like me, i like pissing people off so much, that i decided one day i'm gonna make the HMS Victory as weathered or even a tiny bit more than what i'm doing on the santisima trinidad, for sure guaranteed to make a lot more people even more mad at the calamity of corrupting/tarnishing the HMS Victory with a weathered beaten down look
 
shelk said:
thank you @pugwash

@jimmystratos
One thing you need to know, if you are going to weather to the extent i did, or even more, and if you are going to publish your work, depending on where you post it, for example here on SoS the community is nice and mellow and above all respctfull, but especially on facebook you will come across a decent ammount of people that have the need to tell you how historically inacurate you are by weathering so much, and if you do rusty cannons (seems to be the ultimate crime), well then some people almost seem offended by such a crime, i get that not everyone likes the look, and that's perfectly fine, but some people that have the need to go out of their way to explain to me how cannons cannot in any way be rusty.

So in some places, you might find yourself in the position of explaining that realism doesn't have to equal historical accuracy

So, be prepared, or do like me, i like pissing people off so much, that i decided one day i'm gonna make the HMS Victory as weathered or even a tiny bit more than what i'm doing on the santisima trinidad, for sure guaranteed to make a lot more people even more mad at the calamity of corrupting/tarnishing the HMS Victory with a weathered beaten down look
Click to expand...
Shelk
Just stumbled onto your work. You sir are a master! I think perfect looking models have their place and real life looking models the same. Where did you get your skill? It is fantastic.
John
 
At the end of the day, whoever you are, it's YOUR model and you are entitled to do with it as you please. It's up to the rest of us to accept and respect that. If you want to depict a giant squid dragging a ship (of your choice) under the waves, that's fine with me. For those who can't cope with that, then I recommend viewer discretion and move along. Lots more to be seen here.
 
I do like the weathered look, actually none of my wood models have ever looked clean and new. My Mini Mamoli Britannia is quite clean but I decided to weather the sails a bit as the kit is way too small to bother with weathering.
As I've done some weathered plastic kits of planes it's easy to apply some of the realistic weathering techniques over to wooden boats.
I noticed I would get more questions and people would actually come in closer for a better look when the ship is weathered. Add a few canon ball holes in the side of the hull, rigging/sail over the side of the ship, hasty repairs and you have a very interesting battered model. Old naval battle paintings are a great help for researching this.
 
Jaime R said:
Hi Jimmy, I do not like much the models as if they were launched “yesterday” or on the contrary “ghost ships”. I think virtue is in the middle. Ships in good condition but used.
In my Nepomuceno I used several techniques like dry brushing, waterings, wood inks and brushing with alcohol.
I hope it will help
Greetings
Jaime

View attachment 175540View attachment 175541View attachment 175542View attachment 175543
Click to expand...

Very nice work, Jaime! I’m building my first ship model and I like the more realistic weathered look as opposed to a perfectly clean new look. I’ve mainly built WWI airplanes in the last 4-5 years and they look like a toy if they’re not weathered. But for some reason a lot of the ship modeling community has a different philosophy about this.

I have a question: how did you get that nice oxidation on the copper plating? You’ve really captured the look perfectly with the greens and dull browns over the shiny copper.

Thanks,
George
 
Hi George, here is the explanation:
Good morning fellow modellers.
In the next lines I'll try to explain how I could achive these results with the coppering of the hull.

I used a roll of self-adhesive tape of copper (made for electric purposes in musical stuff). Fortunately, its width is quite accurate for the scale of the ship, 5mm. I make plates of 2cm long and at last I made around 1900 plates. Each one has two types of rivets. The ones in the edges (smaller and closer) and the ones in the center (bigger and more separate). For that purpose I use two types of wheels, the Trumpeter rivet marker and other one used for sewing and properly adapted.

For the ageing of the copper there are, at least, three methods: Chemical, covered with paint or the one I've used with glaze and dry brushing.

The glaze and dry brushing system consists in several and alternative aplications of this methods. First of all, I applied a layer of satin varnish in spray in order to protect and fix the plates. It also serves as primming.
Then, I apply a layer of light green with dry-brushing, after that, a watery application of a smoke patina that goes into all the hidden corners and "kill" the shiny green (repeat both steps until the result is satisfactory) and at the end, a very, very subtle dry brush of copper colour. As a finish, another layer of satin barnish and that's all.
Click to expand...

https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/san-juan-nepomuceno-74c-ship-of-the-line-1766.2851/

Greetings
Jaime
 
Yeah, that’s true. The ageing is a very thin and traslucent layer. In some places (corners and concavities) are more opaque but that represents the 20% as much.

Other method to use is applying other type of foil (like aluminium as you suggested) and then paint it in copper color. After that the process of patination but the results are not so realistic.

Greetings
Jaime
 
i get that not everyone likes the look, and that's perfectly fine, but some people that have the need to go out of their way to explain to me how cannons cannot in any way be rusty.

iron cannons do infact rust so someone needs to go actually look at one. If it a bronze gun then yes i doubt it would rust but an iron cannon does infact rust. It might take 100s of years but in time as we know rust never sleeps.

1598620072774.png

RUSTY.jpg
 
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