Brilliant!
-
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering. -
SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE MARCH/APRIL 2026
Pavel Nikitin 1/25 Oseberg V.3
- Thread starter Willbor237
- Start date
- Watchers 19
I could not have said this better
Boris,
Such brilliant work - mast step looks amazing as well a the benches.
PS: what did you use for cover hinges - I also intend to do more work with the benches including cover hinges and a closing clasp of some sort
Such brilliant work - mast step looks amazing as well a the benches.
PS: what did you use for cover hinges - I also intend to do more work with the benches including cover hinges and a closing clasp of some sort
For the cover hinges I was using, little pieces of Brass that i shaped out of little strips of brass
Using files and a little diamond grinding disk.
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the process of making them, .
But hopefully this pictures explain it a bit
Using files and a little diamond grinding disk.
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the process of making them, .
But hopefully this pictures explain it a bit
New project: grooving the gangboards
After previously building the gangboards and making the necessary adjustments, I have now started adding the grooves. To replicate the scale-accurate strength and grip, I am applying these by hand.
For this, I use a modified needle file:
One side is customized to set the grooves cleanly into the wood.
The other side features a cutting edge for fine preparatory work.
By using a machinist square as a guide, the notches remain perfectly square and evenly spaced. Below are some photos of the work in progress.
Looks to me a bit more realistic lower versus up gangboard
After previously building the gangboards and making the necessary adjustments, I have now started adding the grooves. To replicate the scale-accurate strength and grip, I am applying these by hand.
For this, I use a modified needle file:
One side is customized to set the grooves cleanly into the wood.
The other side features a cutting edge for fine preparatory work.
By using a machinist square as a guide, the notches remain perfectly square and evenly spaced. Below are some photos of the work in progress.
Looks to me a bit more realistic lower versus up gangboard
Last edited:
To give you an idea of the process, here are the steps I follow to craft each oar:
The initial base of the oar is turned from a square timber strip measuring 1.2 x 1.2 cm.
The remaining section of the 1.2 x 1.2 cm strip is sanded flat diagonally. This technique achieves a maximum width of 1.7 cm. I use the horizontal centerlines as a reference to ensure both sides are sanded down equally.
Once the blade's outline is marked, it is sanded into its primary shape.
The blade is brought to the correct thickness using a belt sander.
I use a rotary tool to shape the transition from the blade to the shaft and make final adjustments to the blade's thickness where necessary.
The final touch is applied using a manual sanding block, with a bit of extra sanding wherever it's needed for a smooth finish.
And there we have it—another oar ready.
Step 1: Turning the Base
The initial base of the oar is turned from a square timber strip measuring 1.2 x 1.2 cm.
Step 2: Maximizing Width
The remaining section of the 1.2 x 1.2 cm strip is sanded flat diagonally. This technique achieves a maximum width of 1.7 cm. I use the horizontal centerlines as a reference to ensure both sides are sanded down equally.
Step 3: Shaping the Blade
Once the blade's outline is marked, it is sanded into its primary shape.
Step 4: Refining Thickness
The blade is brought to the correct thickness using a belt sander.
Step 5: Transition and Detail
I use a rotary tool to shape the transition from the blade to the shaft and make final adjustments to the blade's thickness where necessary.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
The final touch is applied using a manual sanding block, with a bit of extra sanding wherever it's needed for a smooth finish.
Step 7: Completion
And there we have it—another oar ready.
The gangboards
I have finished adding all the grooves. However, I wasn't entirely satisfied with them yet. Since these gangboards were crafted from a single long board, the tools used were most likely axes and adzes, which would have left distinct marks.
I decided to recreate these traces to some extent. For this, I used a watchmaker's screwdriver that I previously modified into a curved chisel. It was perfect for roughening the wood, and the scale seems quite realistic.
I have finished adding all the grooves. However, I wasn't entirely satisfied with them yet. Since these gangboards were crafted from a single long board, the tools used were most likely axes and adzes, which would have left distinct marks.
I decided to recreate these traces to some extent. For this, I used a watchmaker's screwdriver that I previously modified into a curved chisel. It was perfect for roughening the wood, and the scale seems quite realistic.