Peterboro canoe 1:12 - Midwest

Tangopapa said:
I'm watching with interest. I live just outside Peterborough, Ontario where these were made (along with a long closed Evinrude outboard motor plant where, coincidentally, a canoe museum is located; that museum is expanding and opening in a brand new building in May). I've considered building one of these as a "filler" project.View attachment 435275
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Me too. I spent quite a few years when a lot younger (1961-65) paddling wood canoes like these (not the fiberglass ones), but the real stuff - buggers to portage though! My wife's family is from Peterborough, so many trips there, plus summers at Stoney Lake.
 
Captain B said:
I’ve only got a few more planks on since my last post. I’m still hopeful,trying I can get the planks turned flat.

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The strips are likely not following the station moulds because they are not bevelled enough to lay on the previously applied strip (not enough of an angle on the edge) and this may be coupounded with the fact that the strips are bevelled at each end instead of keeping them square and bevelling the stems at both ends like you would do if you were to build the real thing.

Another suggestion would be to dry fit the strip after having bevelled the bottom edge to be installed and adjusting the bevel to make sure the strip lays flat onto the station molds. It would also helps to start dry fitting, glueing and clamping the strip in the center area of the canoe (ensuring it follow the rounded shape of the hull) and working to fasten the strip while moving toward the ends: that is why the stem should be bevelled as it makes it easier to glue the strips in place while following the shape of the canoe.

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(Strips following the shape created by the station molds)

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(fitting strips: starting in the center area working toward the ends)

Of course, those would only some of my suggestions. The goal is for the strips to follow the shape of the mold as well as possible. If not, you will end up with a canoe but it will not quite look like the one you are supposed to get from the plans supplied in the kit. It will likely be much fatter in the bottom center area.

Kindest regards.
G.

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Gilles Korent said:
The strips are likely not following the station moulds because they are not bevelled enough to lay on the previously applied strip (not enough of an angle on the edge) and this may be coupounded with the fact that the strips are bevelled at each end instead of keeping them square and bevelling the stems at both ends like you would do if you were to build the real thing.

Another suggestion would be to dry fit the strip after having bevelled the bottom edge to be installed and adjusting the bevel to make sure the strip lays flat onto the station molds. It would also helps to start dry fitting, glueing and clamping the strip in the center area of the canoe (ensuring it follow the rounded shape of the hull) and working to fasten the strip while moving toward the ends: that is why the stem should be bevelled as it makes it easier to glue the strips in place while following the shape of the canoe.

View attachment 437318
(Strips following the shape created by the station molds)

View attachment 437317
(fitting strips: starting in the center area working toward the ends)

Of course, those would only some of my suggestions. The goal is for the strips to follow the shape of the mold as well as possible. If not, you will end up with a canoe but it will not quite look like the one you are supposed to get from the plans supplied in the kit. It will likely be much fatter in the bottom center area.

Kindest regards.
G.

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Gillies, that is some very helpful advice:) as with the stem it’s too late for that. This kit had very flimsy balsa stems, just over 2 mm thick. I’ve been playing the keel with my fingers this entire build:) I have been tapering both edges for the last several planks. I would be tremendously more effective if I could actually see the taper when I finish it. ( it’s pretty small:). Here’s the simple jig I assembled to taper the bottom edge of plank being installed.

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I wish I had attached all the planks in the center as you suggested. I’ve only done one this morning, but I can see how I could have done a better job if I never let it get away. As for the planks at the ends, I’m trying to dampen the end of the plank, and see if I can get it to stay without heating it up:)

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I’ve only got about a cm glued in the center. It’s going to make it flat:) , but it will be on the plus size on the side:) only a few mm :) Thanks so much for your input!

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Secure the paper clip you are using to the station mold and use one of its "lips" to hold the strip close to it (see photos I attached in my post) . Using the clip and the clamp like shown in you images will not do that; instead it will tend to pull it away from it. It is not enough to hold the strips together. You need to push them and hold them against the edge of the station mold.
FYI; use the clips that feel hard to press open, the softer ones will not hold the two parts together. You need to secure / hold the two opposing forces.
G.
 
All the planks that attach to the stems, are in place. The way that seems best for me, starts with edge bending the plank. I’ve been using a short plank that’s bent to check the taper on the previously installed plank. Then after laying the plank where it goes, I visually check the seam of the two planks. I check the underside also before using a drop of thick CA in the middle of the plank.


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Working towards both ends I run a tiny bead of thin or medium CA, down the seam until the next frame. While that’s curing, I dampen both ends put a clamp at where I stopped the glue . And twist the ends to match the stem using clamps. I let these dry and they have been fitting nicely:) I think:)

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So here is a few shots of where she stands .

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I’ve been thinking of how I’ll display it. I’m going to try to do a small diorama of an high spot in the stream, where it’s been dragged up on it. Here’s where I started and really haven’t figured out the whole plan, but I will:)

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I hope I don’t offend anyone with my terrible grammar and punctuation. I didn’t want to bother my wife:)
 
The remainder of planks will attach to the keel. Hopefully lay close to flat. These planks I decided to do differently. After edge bending the plank I lay it where it fits.

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Then mark the point next to the last plank and the point where the keel stops touching the plank.

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Next remove and cut between my marks.

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After dry fitting that end, I repeat the same at the other end.

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The plank before this one, I used Thick CA on both ends first, then moved to the middle and did a thin CA bead on the seam working towards both ends a short piece at a time.

I’m thinking on this one, I’m just going to start at one end and run thin CA to the other. The thick CA makes it harder to wedge in the fragile point of the plank. But I think it’s best to look at every step and make your on decision based on what you’re looking at . Sometimes the longer I look at it, brings up another option:)
 
Carleroo said:
It's looking good. A different kind of kit.

The Peterborough area is lovely. It's in the Kawartha Lakes area of Ontario - lots of lakes, rivers, canal waterways. We have spent many summers out that way. No surprise that it is the home of the canoe museum. By the way , who is tangopapa?:)
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I am.
 
I’ve been able to spend more time modeling yesterday and this morning. Normally I would dampen a plank, bend it and let it dry on it’s on. The last planks I bent two at a time and applied heat to dry them.

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Clamps became useless as the gap narrowed. Now is where our individuality shows up, by coming up with all kinds of ideas that no one man can solve. To bad I’m not one of them:) I went simple this time.

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I tried to watch the keel, to make sure it stays as straight as it was after I broke the stem and had to glue it back together:)

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The last two planks were 1.4 mm and 1.5 mm

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I used a scrap end that I cut the bevel off of. Using the tapered end as my reference on which side I would be working on. So I wouldn’t work on all the sides:) I used a small planer to get it close, and then sanded the rest of the way.

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I did have to redo them several times.

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Time to to cut it off the strong back.

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Next I will be planking up both ends and the dozens of support ribs. I also covered the island with a thin coat of homemade paper clay.

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I may paint a base coat on it next so I can think of what I need to do next on it. Thanks for viewing and comments are welcome:)

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Coming along nicely! Finding time to work on it is always a challenge. Enjoy the process!
 
Captain B said:
I’ve been able to spend more time modeling yesterday and this morning. Normally I would dampen a plank, bend it and let it dry on it’s on. The last planks I bent two at a time and applied heat to dry them.

View attachment 440047

Clamps became useless as the gap narrowed. Now is where our individuality shows up, by coming up with all kinds of ideas that no one man can solve. To bad I’m not one of them:) I went simple this time.

View attachment 440049

I tried to watch the keel, to make sure it stays as straight as it was after I broke the stem and had to glue it back together:)

View attachment 440050

The last two planks were 1.4 mm and 1.5 mm

View attachment 440052

I used a scrap end that I cut the bevel off of. Using the tapered end as my reference on which side I would be working on. So I wouldn’t work on all the sides:) I used a small planer to get it close, and then sanded the rest of the way.

View attachment 440051

I did have to redo them several times.

View attachment 440053

View attachment 440054

Time to to cut it off the strong back.

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Next I will be planking up both ends and the dozens of support ribs. I also covered the island with a thin coat of homemade paper clay.

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I may paint a base coat on it next so I can think of what I need to do next on it. Thanks for viewing and comments are welcome:)

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Good afternoon. Lovely planking - looking good. Cheers Grant
 
Good morning! I was looking at the last shot I posted. I noticed those unsightly gaps on the inside. It’s where my taper was the wrong angle. I diluted PVA 50/50 and used a micro nozzle to dispense it inside the grooves. Then just rubbed sawdust until I felt that they were filled enough.

Here’s before and after.

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Captain B said:
Hello friends, I’ve recently retired and picked up this wonderful hobby about a year ago. I really like these small kits. Especially when I’m trying to gain as much knowledge of nautical terms along with skills for woodworking:) I’ve had very little of either.


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The build starts with the assembly of the strongback. I’ve marked the centerlines and the stem inside edges with dotted lines. I will cut some scrap pieces to brace the frames and help plumb the stems. Also I will cover frames with thin packing tape to prevent the planks from being permanently glued to the strong back:) Another reason, is if I accumulate enough materials from other kits I will build another from this strongback.

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I saw your problem with the planks rising off the forms . I fixed this building the whitehall boat. It is nerve wracking. I put tourniquets around the hull. Tightened them somewhat. Spray with windex tighten more. Repeat over and over. It’s amazing the stress it took
 
Senorbob said:
I saw your problem with the planks rising off the forms . I fixed this building the whitehall boat. It is nerve wracking. I put tourniquets around the hull. Tightened them somewhat. Spray with windex tighten more. Repeat over and over. It’s amazing the stress it took
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Si Senorbob :) When I did the Sea of Galilee boat. I did the exact same thing. It still didn’t fully recover:)
 
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