Planking 2nd layer

NMBROOK

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I once tried planking using contact adhesive after reading about it in Keith Jullier's books.Never again,far too messy and stringy to work with,plus remains rubbery even when set.
I use thick CA or Alaphatic PVA now.Alaphatic PVA's are the true carpenters glues.not the usual DIY store wood glue.Titebond is of this type.Everyone who uses normal PVA thinks they have left glue stains in the planks no matter how much they clean up.They are not infact stains,common garden building PVA actually bleaches the wood leaving a permanent blemish.
If you are finishing the model in SPIRIT based Polyurethane varnish with no staining,CA glue blends into the finish with no blemishes.I include a picture of Royal Caroline planked in 1mm Pear using thick CA.The hull was covered in it before sanding and varnishing.

Kind Regards

Nigel

rc26.jpg
 
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I highly recommend contact cement such as, just brush it on the hull and then planks as needed. It takes about 60 secondts to become tack dry. Then place the precut plank and it hold in place. I normally do about 2-3 planks at a time. IF you rub the planks with dowel they sit firmly. For the veneer type second planking this is the easiest as it still moves a little when you place it, but does not require holding. Just like applying cellotape or sticky tape easy as.
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Kkonrath

Kurt Konrath
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One thing I have learned and tried is to apply my glue on hull or decks with a Q tip (cotton tip) applicator, it helps to spread glue thin and uniform along the length, and I can also use it to apply glue to edge of plank to help adhere to the plank next to it.
 
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Just an additional information concerning contact adhesive. Pattex is the brand name. Uhu, amongst others, also manufactures this adhesive. Both sides to be bonded are coated with the substance thinly and then left to air until both surfaces are no longer tacky to the touch. The strip is then applied to the hull, adjusted, where necessary, and pressed hard into the surface. Excess adhesive can be wiped off using nitro thinners in a well-ventilated area. I used this type of bonding on both sets of planking and it is a good alternative to wood glue. However, I am on a learning curve, and I will contemplate using wood glue, express type, on my next ship, whenever that will be!
 
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Back again with a question concerning the 2nd planking.
I am nearing completion of the IMG_3967.JPGsecond planking after which I will sand the surface smooth. I saw HMS Victory in Portsmouth Harbour some years ago, and not knowing one day I will build an historic model ship, I took little notice of the state of the hull planking.
Generally speaking, is it ok if some planks are slightly prouder than others, or should I sand the hull until I have achieved an even surface all round, or is a slightly uneven planking more to reality?
 
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I would think that ships of a smaller scale such as yours should be sanded FAIRLY smooth. Larger scales such as dory's etc look ok with some of the timbers standing proud.
 
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AS MEMBERS MUST KW BY NOW I DO NOT LIKE DOUBLE PLANKING TO ME I HAVE NOT GOT THE SKILL SET TO HANDEL THIN,VERY THIN VENNERS, AS I HAVE NOT DOE A POB IN QUITE SOME TIME ON THE ARMED LONG BOAT I HAVE GONE BACK TO SPILING HOPEFULLY I AM NOW ON THE RIGHT TRACK, WHEN DONE CORRECTLY IT TAKES NO MORE TIME THEN DOUBLE PLANKING, AND MIKE I HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN SANDING SMOOTH AS NOT TO SAND TO MUCH, I HAVE DONE THIS WITH THE ARMED LONG BOAT AND RIPPED OFF THE PLANKING AND STARTED OVER, HAD THIS PROBLEM IN PREVIOUS POB BUILDS NOW MOSTLY POF FOR ME (THANKS TO DAVE STEVENS) ALSO WHAT HAS CONTUALLY GIVEN ME PROBLEMS IN THE PAST INCLUDING THIS ONE IS NOT HAVING THE RIGHT CLAMPS AND GLUE ON THIS BUILD BECAUSE THE PLANKS ARE VISABLE BOTH INTEROR AND EXTERIOR, I HAVE USE CA FOR THE PLANKING AND I HATE THE STUFF. GOD BLESS ALL STAY SAFE DON
 
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The trick is to use a hard sanding block (like a piece of wood) with fine sand paper wrapped around it (say 320 grit) for the second planking. The hard sanding block will allow the fine grit paper to remove the proudness of the planks without taking off extra material. If you use a soft sanding stick, sanding sponge, or sand paper by itself you will go through the thin planking before it evens out. It also help to sand in the direction against the proud standing planks.

Hope this helps.
 
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Hi all,
What are the members thoughts on using contact glue for the 2nd planking? My instruction leaflet for the HMB Endeavour, from Occre, suggests using this type of glue. I would probably opt to using a white wood glue, such as Ponal Express. That gives me time to adjust the plank where necessary.
If you mean contact cement, then no, that is what you would use to apply plastic laminate (Formica) applied to both surfaces, when they touch they can’t bo shifted. Solvent based has toxic fumes.
 
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Hi
I’m not a master builder but I’ve had good luck with super glue.
 

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I have built kits using CA and PVA glue for second planking. I find the PVA a lot easier to use and if you get a good quality fast setting one it is just as good as a CA glue with the added bonus of it can be removed with wetting the plank down. The CA does fill the grain and if just varnishing it it seems ok. But it is very messy to work with and hard to rub back, whereis the PVA is easier to to use and spread and when it dries it dries clear and if you use a thin scraper you can remove the extra glue before it sets fully. I use CA glue only to lock tie ropes on blocks and lock blocks tied onto yards and Masts
 
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I can't use CA glue because I'm allergic to it. Stuffs up my sinus really bad. So I use Titebond ll for everything. It is water resistant not water proof but I have never had a joint come loose because of water or anything else. CA does stain the wood so if you are using a stain it will show up as a white spot and you can't get it out. Titebond is water based and as stated above you can wipe off any excess glue with a damp rag. Because Titebond is water based it can cause your planks to cup. Happens all the time. When you apply the plank hold it very tight against the last plank so no space shows between them. When it dries and the glue is cured,about 48 hours, you can then lightly sand the planks with a sanding block to smooth out the raised edges, For the most part I like to paint my hulls but if I have some nice wood planks like Walnut or Mahogany I make an extra special effort to NOT get any glue on the outside of the wood so there is no discoloration. Then I can use a clear spray to bring out the natural colors. Good info here on this problem. Hope my two cents worth helps.
 
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