Port Jackson 1803 - by Bringo

Bringo

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Good day to all
In reference to my introductory message, I have now prepared an official build log for my kit.
Kit details can be found here.

Please keep in mind that I’m completely new to the trade and not particularly gifted in crafting in general. Actually the reason I got into this is twofold: my love for history and naval lore in addition to wanting to develop my manual crafting capabilities!
I might lack some of the vocabulary or jargon used in this circle and also might not know or understand things that are usually taken for granted. That said I’m willing to learn and listen and push myself to accomplish this feat.
Also I’m unsure if these logs are supposed to follow a specific template as I’m just presenting things as I would in any normal post.

This kit was purchased a couple of years back and I did some initial work on it before shelving it due to life constraints and generally lacking free time. However, I now find myself with more ample time to spare and would really like to finish what I have started.

I’m going to start by throwing in some photos of were I am at for a lack of a better introduction since I believe most of you will quickly notice which stage of development I have reached.
The instruction material that I have at my disposal are the following:
⁃ the model manual that shipped with the kit
⁃ A introductory pdf file about wooden ship model building
⁃ A series of videos by an experienced crafter

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Please note that both the pdf file and the videos refer to a slightly different model than the one I have.

As you can see from the photos, I’ve already glued in the bulkheads and the false deck. I ensured the bulkheads are perpendicular to the keel using clamps and that the false deck is centered. These weren’t that complicated to complete. Now I have recently started “fairing the frames” (only one side as you can see in the photos) as mentioned in my instruction material as to make sure the planks lay on the entire surface of each bulkhead for maximum adherence later on during the planking phase.
It’s difficult to really photograph the correctness of this step so I have used one of the second layer softer planks to curve it around and snap a photo.
One of the things that puzzles me is that some of the plank will naturally curve either upwards or downwards once taken to the length of the keel and will actually overlap with other planks, but I believe this is a problem for later (planking phase).
My immediate concern is what to do at the stern. I’ve already attached the transom as per the instructions but I’m unsure whether I need to continue “fairing” into the sternpost with my file tool and make it in a sort it’s aligned with the last bulkhead, I have left it intact for the moment out of fear of doing irreversible damage to it. The manual refers to deadwood area and says that this area will be double planked but that the sternpost and rudder will be single plank which added to my confusion.
I will add photos of this section along with the relevant part in the manual.
The following section of the manual tackles planking so I have read it as I’m taking things one step at a time.

I would appreciate any comments and suggestions or advice that might help me and some guidance as to what to do at the stern.

Thanks,
Bringo
 

Bringo

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Hello,

Now that I am revisiting the plans I think I made a mistake with the transom. Does the transom need to be flush with the stern which is clearly not the case in what I have done. If so, is it a big deal if I kept it as is? Or it’s ok?

D41C30FF-380C-4C03-8C6B-575B4D615F4B.jpeg

Also is the hacked area drawn with my pencil the “deadwood area”? Should I reduce this area by 1 mm from each side?
 
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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it should be flush against the profile piece BUT it is no big deal if is not so the way you have it is fine.
you may want to check other logs it is common to fill in between the bulkheads so you planking conforms to the shape of the hull
 

Bringo

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Alright thank you. As this is my very first model I will not be shooting for 100% accuracy but I just want to make sure I’m not making any capital mistakes.
 

donfarr

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BRINGO, THIS IS THE VOICE OF MISTAKES SPEAKING YOU WILL MAKE THEM WE ALL DUE, SO FROM MY EXPERIENCE I WILL TELL YOU HOW TO TAKE ITEMS APART, THIS IS FOR BOTH PVA AND CA GLUES, GET SOME NAIL POLISH REMOVER WITH 100% ACOTONE THIS IS IMPORTANT 100% ACOTONE, USING A COTTON SWAB AND A EXACTO TYPE BLADE THE ACOTONE IS PLACED BETWEEN THE JOINTS SLOWLY PRY IT LOOSE YOU MAY NEED MORE THEN ONE APPLICATION IT DOES NOT MATTER HOW MUCH IT NEEDS THE PRCEDURE IS THE SAME I HAVE DONE THIS MANY TIMES IT WORKS WIT KNOW DAMAGE TO THE PARTS HOPE THIS HELPS DOWN THE LINE FOR YOU. Don
 

Bringo

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Thanks Donfarr and I’ll always keep in mind this handy advice for down the line. However and for this particular case, I think I’ll just let it be and move on with the build. I want to stay motivated and want to learn the whole process so I can have an overall understanding. Later on I’ll probably do another kit to which I’ll try to perfect.
Please keep the comments and suggestions coming
 

Bringo

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Hello,

So I’m trying to install my first plank on both side. The manual says start at the deck level and first plank shouldn’t be tapered however it needs to be bent appropriately to mold into the vessel form.
I’m having issues bending my first plank especially at the bow as the curvature is somehow steep. I just broke my first plank. Any advice on bending planks? I’m using the below tool

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Jimsky

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Hi Bringo, I am completely agree with our colleague Dj65. The simplest way to help bending is to soak timber in a hot water. Then you can start bending slowly around the bow, if you see the plank wants to break, stop and soak again until it naturally bends. Let it dry first, before gluing together. To expedite the process you can work with planks for alternative sides: board and starboard.
 

donfarr

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I AGREE WITH THE ABOVE COMMENTS AND WILL ADD A BIT MORE ON MY METHOD, I SOAK THE PLANK IN VERY HOT WATER, THEN I USE A HAIR CURLER MINE IS A REMINGTON AND SLOWLY SHAPE THE PLANK BE CAREFUL TO NOT BURN THE PLANK, THIS IS JUST MANY WAYS TO DO THIS Don
 

JMac

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I AGREE WITH THE ABOVE COMMENTS AND WILL ADD A BIT MORE ON MY METHOD, I SOAK THE PLANK IN VERY HOT WATER, THEN I USE A HAIR CURLER MINE IS A REMINGTON AND SLOWLY SHAPE THE PLANK BE CAREFUL TO NOT BURN THE PLANK, THIS IS JUST MANY WAYS TO DO THIS Don
A little ammonia added to the water helps for tight bends.
 

donfarr

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IT DOES BUT I CAN NOT TAKE THE SMELL. Don
 

Bringo

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Do models typically come with spare planks? Say like a couple extra planks than what is needed to complete it?
 

paulv1958

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Hi Some kits do. some come with a lot of spares, some come with very little. I have always had spares with Caldercraft & Occre. AL was hit & miss, with mostly miss.
If its double planked, then use cutoffs between bulkheads. You cant see then when they are 2nd planked over. Shorter planks are also easier when it comes to compound bends lower in the hull.
 
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