Question about the paint

SSC

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Hello all,
I am currently about to finish the planking and am planning to paint my ship.
But I have no idea about what kind of paint I should go for.

I would like to polish and keep the original color of the wood. I think the paint I should use is called something like 'wood wax oil' (literally translated from Chinese), but I am not quite sure about the name in English.

If anybody can tell me the name and recommand a brand of the paint, I would appriciate it.

Thanks,
Sun
 
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If you like to expose the wood grain, then you can use something called "wipe and poly'. This is the easiest way to protect the wood and leave the wood timber as is while also protect from moisture.
Some members like to use oil (as you mentioned in your question). However, the oil will require some knowledge and experience to apply.
Shellac is traditional but is not often used anymore. It's heat sensitive and is not recommended for surfaces where direct sunlight is.
Lacquers dry to a hard and durable intense gloss finish. Lacquers dry much quicker than oils, so finishing can be done more quickly.
Varnish is a type of clear finish that is composed of a solvent, resin, and oil. Traditional varnish is based on natural resins and oils and is thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine.
 
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If you like to expose the wood grain, then you can use something called "wipe and poly'. This is the easiest way to protect the wood and leave the wood timber as is while also protect from moisture.
Some members like to use oil (as you mentioned in your question). However, the oil will require some knowledge and experience to apply.
Shellac is traditional but is not often used anymore. It's heat sensitive and is not recommended for surfaces where direct sunlight is.
Lacquers dry to a hard and durable intense gloss finish. Lacquers dry much quicker than oils, so finishing can be done more quickly.
Varnish is a type of clear finish that is composed of a solvent, resin, and oil. Traditional varnish is based on natural resins and oils and is thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the details! I now have some ideas about how to start.
I will look into the materials you mentioned and do a further survey and study.
 
I have used Danish Oil extensively. It cures in about 72 hours - and then, if desired, a top coat can safely be applied. Here's a suggestion: whatever finish you decide to use, try it first on scrap woods to see the results before applying it to your build. By the way, Danish Oil can be Natural color (clear but slightly yellow), Walnut, Dark Walnut and many other colors. Google 'Watco Danish Oil' to see what you think!
 
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I have used Danish Oil extensively. It cures in about 72 hours - and then, if desired, a top coat can safely be applied. Here's a suggestion: whatever finish you decide to use, try it first on scrap woods to see the results before applying it to your build. By the way, Danish Oil can be Natural color (clear but slightly yellow), Walnut, Dark Walnut and many other colors. Google 'Watco Danish Oil' to see what you think!
Cool, thank you for the suggestion.
 
I haven't clear coated a hull but if you're just going to clear coat the wood planking, be really sure that there is NO glue on the surface of the wood. It will show up once you apply the actual finish. I know this from other wood projects that I have used clear finishes on. You could spray the hull first with something that would temporarily simulate the finished wood and would show up any glue on the surface. I've used water (which would raise the grain) or rubbing alcohol. More experienced builders can probably suggest something better.
 
I use a water based polyurethane matte or semi gloss as a clear protective coating on all parts of my models. Something like Minwax matte poly either brush in or rub on. Note that you can also use a brush to apply rub on polyurethane.
 
I haven't clear coated a hull but if you're just going to clear coat the wood planking, be really sure that there is NO glue on the surface of the wood. It will show up once you apply the actual finish. I know this from other wood projects that I have used clear finishes on. You could spray the hull first with something that would temporarily simulate the finished wood and would show up any glue on the surface. I've used water (which would raise the grain) or rubbing alcohol. More experienced builders can probably suggest something better.
This is really good advice--any bit of glue will show and a light rubdown with water will show it up before your finish the hull.

As far as finishes I think Danish oil is very good too but have used varnishes with equally good results. Both are easy to use but some people think that oil allows the ship to collect dust more easily. Good luck with your project.
 
This is really good advice--any bit of glue will show and a light rubdown with water will show it up before your finish the hull.

As far as finishes I think Danish oil is very good too but have used varnishes with equally good results. Both are easy to use but some people think that oil allows the ship to collect dust more easily. Good luck with your project.
can you apply a clear Poly over Tung Oil ??
 
can you apply a clear Poly over Tung Oil ??
I wouldn't even try it. Tung oil is a natural product, while Poly is an artificial blend (polymer). Both are works as the protection layer why would you try one on top of another?
 
can you apply a clear Poly over Tung Oil ??
I think the two are mutually exclusive so there would normally not be a reason. How well it would work/look is another question and maybe worth trying on some scrap wood. But again, I can't see a reason to do it.
 
Actually, you can use poly over tung oil after it is fully cured.

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Just a thought . Perhaps to add a gloss or semi, or just to make it easier to keep clean. You know how these things can get over time.
 
I prefer Danish Oil (Watco) followed by Spar Urethane and use it on fly fishing nets that see alot of water. I let the oil fully cure for 3 days before coating with the urethane. I haven't tried it on a model ship as yet. I will be using Danish oil on the model I am currently building. I have never used tung oil on any wood items I built.
 

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