Questions, primarily to owners of Proxxon DH 40

Hi Steven,
Thank. Good to knwo it is poosible :) I'lll try to make a sander, but smaller. I would not need a drum wider than 2" but I think I'll make go for 3-4 ". Just hasn't much time to do it at the moment.
 
Hi Poul,

I don t understand why the proxxon DH 40 is so expensive in Denmark. Here in Netherlands I paid €489,-. If I were you I would buy it in Germany via Amazone for €458,- incl shipping or DKK 3412,-. PS you can also join the Euro, makes live a lot easier. :)
 
Hi Poul,

I don t understand why the proxxon DH 40 is so expensive in Denmark. Here in Netherlands I paid €489,-. If I were you I would buy it in Germany via Amazone for €458,- incl shipping or DKK 3412,-. PS you can also join the Euro, makes live a lot easier. :)
Thanks a lot for the hint @Maarten :) Even though it is still a lot of money, it is 20% lower than the aboslute cheapest seller in Denmark (25-30% lower than any decent seller). I had already found out that it was cheaper in Germany but all places I tried, after I had entered my name, address etc. I ended up with "kein Versand nach Dänemark" so I gave up. It seems like the one you found does deliver to DK. It is still more money than I ever wanted to spend on the project but . . . I may end up "door de zure appel bijten".
Strange that Amazone list the item as a MP 300 rathere than a DH 40. In other web sites MP 300 seems to be a Profile Shaper.

PS: To be perfectly honest I personally I think we are allready suffering from far too much EU so I rather pay more for stuff than getting even more EU
 
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Bonjour à bord!

I have a DH40 and if I won't guarantee the precision of the thickness along a scaled log, you have also to consider that sometimes the result is not good at all if the fibers of the wood went against the blades! I get my wood from scratch and it is rare that the fibers are "combed" in the same sens on more than a longer of 20 cm.
For the kind of wood and the kind of thickness that we are all looking for on this website, I will join the thickness sander fighters group! If it can help, I saved this video, from a talentueux japanese craftsman:
The main problem to build this tools seems to be the straightness of the cylinder but I sure we can find a good resource in old printers, also for axis.
The second problem is to get an easy system which allow to keep the cylinder and the planning surface perfectly parallele, without needing to adjust each time with your caliper and a piece of wood. It means that, like in the Steven built, the planing surface is well articulate and there is only one central screw to make the setting.

Bonne journée!
Bob
 
Thanks a lot for the hint @Maarten :) Even though it is still a lot of money, it is 20% lower than the aboslute cheapest seller in Denmark (25-30% lower than any decent seller). I had already found out that it was cheaper in Germany but all places I tried, after I had entered my name, address etc. I ended up with "kein Versand nach Dänemark" so I gave up. It seems like the one you found does deliver to DK. It is still more money than I ever wanted to spend on the project but . . . I may end up "door de zure appel bijten".
Strange that Amazone list the item as a MP 300 rathere than a DH 40. In other web sites MP 300 seems to be a Profile Shaper.

PS: To be perfectly honest I personally I think we are allready suffering from far too much EU so I rather pay more for stuff than getting even more EU
With global trade , even in Corona, its worth searching via google. Even with handling, shipping and taxes and currency fluctuations, there are substantial savings to be had. Most established companies can be relied upon. I think I bought mine from Italy, but over the last year have bought stuff from USA, England,Italy, Germany, Poland and China.
 
I was using my Hammer A3-31 machine in planer mode yesterday and used my digital calipers to measure the thickness of a 55cm long, 6cm wide board after putting it through the machine, there was only a deviation of 0.01mm between the four corners which I'm always very pleased about. Austrian engineering at it's best.
Using a sled for thin stock can easily replace the DH40 thus providing a much more versatile machine to make any wood project- big or small.
This will be the last jointer/planer, so decided to finally get a good one.
Cons: The price.... ouch!
 
I was using my Hammer A3-31 machine in planer mode yesterday and used my digital calipers to measure the thickness of a 55cm long, 6cm wide board after putting it through the machine, there was only a deviation of 0.01mm between the four corners which I'm always very pleased about. Austrian engineering at it's best.
Using a sled for thin stock can easily replace the DH40 thus providing a much more versatile machine to make any wood project- big or small.
This will be the last jointer/planer, so decided to finally get a good one.
Cons: The price.... ouch!
In my case there is one more disadvantage besides the price: I do not have 3 x 400V in my workshop. That is still only one obstacle you might say, as I could just buy a new house also. After all, the total price of this fine machine would not be much higher in percentage if including also a new house ROTF.
 
In my case there is one more disadvantage besides the price: I do not have 3 x 400V in my workshop. That is still only one obstacle you might say, as I could just buy a new house also. After all, the total price of this fine machine would not be much higher in percentage if including also a new house ROTF.
My Hammer Combination Machine runs off a 40Amp 250 volt spur from the main fuse box ... same as a cooker supply.
 
Hello Poul (Vaer hilset-from one Dane to another), I just spoke with Proxxon Inc. Customer Service, Hickory, NC. The Proxxon DH40 is no longer being exported to the US (likely due to insufficient volume). It is still available in Europe (quite expensive though). If we had one shipped here there would be issues with getting the appropriate converter AND Proxxon, Hickory, NC do not have the parts for servicing. I have a DH40 which I purchased years ago- does a satisfactory job BUT the blades (which are still available) are a real pain to change and align. I also have the Byrnes thickness sander which, like all of the machines he makes, is well designed, rugged, dependable and you have the option of using two different 3" wide grades of sandpaper side by side. I emailed Jim Byrnes two days ago to see if he was considering making a thickness planer and have not heard from him yet. If he did, I'm sure it would be an outstanding and popular machine. I'll post if he responds. In the mean time happy milling! R. Pedersen
 
Thank you for your input @rpedersen :) Must admit I had thought a couple of times that your last name looked rather Danish to me (Peder's son). Not so strange when you are a Viking too :D
 
Hello Poul, Yes, my relatives were originally from Aarhus! I just finished speaking with Jim Byrnes of Byrnes Model Machines and he has no plans at present to make a thickness planer for modellers BUT I put the "bug" in his head and he will "think about it". At present he is a one man operation and very busy shipping his machines all over the world.
 
A thickness sand is only as good as the flatness of the wood, it does not flatten wood. One side must be flat!. The onyl way to gurantee one side is flat is a jointer or a no 7 plane. thicnessers will also tend to not work perfectly at exit and enttry points due to the wood lifting.
Agreed, a thickness sander should be used to finish a board that has already been dimensioned with a planer and thicknesser.
To prevent snipe you can do one of two things:
  1. Tune your machine's entry/exit rollers
  2. Have longer pieces that can have the ends cut off after it has been dimensioned.
 
Hello Poul, Just make sure if you do go ahead and spend half of your household budget on a DH40 that whoever you purchase it from has the ability to do repairs. You want to be able to purchase new blades and you will find that changing the blades can be challenging. Also take the covers off periodically to vacuum wood chips that inevitably wind up inside the planer with repeated use. I noticed that Axminister (German based) company carries the DH40 AND they have an exclusive distributor in Denmark!! (Dorch & Danola ALS). Who knows that distributor may be right in your neighborhood! Held og lykke!!
 
Over the last few days I have used the DH40 a great deal both for long strips and short pieces( 5-7 cms). Without it,or something very similar, scratch building will be difficult and tedious. The finish it gives is as good as sanding. It also copes with thin vertical pieces. I would limit the amount to be removed to less than 0.5 mm to avoid chewing the presenting end. Repeated passes , alternating sides, will eliminated almost all the lack of "flatness". The use of this tool is most satisfying given its ease of use and quality of the finished product. It does create a large amount of waste but not dust such as when sanding) . To minimise vacuuming, I put containers below, fore and aft, to catch this waste.
 
@stuglo The setup with 3 containers and a garden chair seems little complex and I guess some waste might fall outside the 3 containers. Just an idea (don't know if it would work but in my mind it would be much simpler and waste should not fall outside) : Iif you have old drawer or a not too high box etc. perhaps you could just set down the DH 40 in the middle of the drawer. As I said, just a thought.
 
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Ignore mess in background. Table on wheels (old e.c.g.) allows flexibility for long pieces (used 50 cms+ sometimes) alongside my larger proxxon table saw. This is used in parallel to take off more than 2.5 mm and reduce number of passes necessary for the DH 40.
 

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