Replacing blades Proxxon DH40?

Norway

Norway

Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
2,449
Points
538

Hello again friends.
I need to change the blades on my DH40.
I'm afraid of making mistakes so that the planks get different thicknesses on each side.
How to do this correctly.
Do any of you have any tips on this topic, please show pictures or video.
Regards Knut-
 
Trying again, I know that there are many of you who have this machine, then there are probably some of you who have changed the knives with a good result, correct thickness over the entire plank.
Greetings Knut-
 
There may be a tutorial on Youtube if you have not checked there. I can only speak to the process for changing knives on my Delta 10” planer
 
Thanks for the response friends.
As you probably understand, changing blades can go completely wrong if you disassemble and then assemble incorrectly, resulting in a crooked plank, and it will then be difficult to adjust the blades completely in the center again.
I haven't found anything on YouTube.
I will also try to get an explanation from the manufacturer.
This machine is delivered all over Europe and other countries, I didn't think this was a problem in the USA.
I am looking for explanations, hope you can do it too, this is probably a problem for many other model builders.
Knut-
 
I looked it up on the web and it’s a small planer. I have not changed the blades on my planer (I probably should) but I have changed them on my jointer. Both of these tools work on the same principle; sharp knives affixed in a rotating cylinder. The knives Rest in grooves in the cylinder secured by set screws. The knives must all be parallel to each other and to the Infeed surface. They must all be at the same height relative to each other.

The best way to do this is with a dial indicator. First clamp the new knives in the cylinder and align by eyeball. With the dial indicator in a holding fixture on the infeed table, the tip can be moved across the surface of the first blade to ensure that it is parallel to it. Once you have one blade parallel to the table, rotate the cylinder. You will need to rig up a fixture to clamp the cylinder at its same point in its rotation. This is can be determined with a dial indicator by finding the “max” point of the knife. Repeat the same procedure as with the first knife and so on.

Dial indicators are not cheap and like other tools, you get what you pay for. After owning two cheap ones that fell apart, I finally broke down and bought a Sterrett ($165.00 US). It’s a great tool. In addition to my jointer, I use it to tune up my Byrnes saw and find it hand to use with my Sherline lathe/ mill. A worthwhile and inexpensive accessory is a set of different tips. These extend the indicator’s reach and adaptability for different setups. Make sure the the thread on the tips matches that on the indicator stem.
 
Philski said:
Looking at the picture of the cutter head in the downloadable manual, the cutters mount to their holders. The grub screws that adjust the knife blade height are factory set. So, no dial indicators are needed. Blades are reversible. View attachment 501111

View attachment 501119
Click to expand...
That was the case with my jointer. My planer had a magnetic knife setting jig that held the knives at exactly the right height while the locking screws were tightened. Made blade replacement a snap.
 
Namabiiru said:
That was the case with my jointer. My planer had a magnetic knife setting jig that held the knives at exactly the right height while the locking screws were tightened. Made blade replacement a snap.
Click to expand...
I have a DeWalt 13" planer and it came with a knife setting fixture and the blades have holes that align with pins on the cutter head. My Delta 12" planer had a metal alifpgnment tool. I also have a magnetic one I use for my jointer knives. And believe me, they need to be nice and level across and to each other.....
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your information and interest in this topic.
I am attaching the information I found on Google and some pictures of the knives that I already have.
I will start this work soon, but I need help carrying the machine into the house since my health is very poor after an operation on my main artery.
Trying my best.
side 1 (1).jpgside 1 (2).jpgside 2 (1).jpgside 2 (2).jpg
 

Attachments

@EspenT , Takk for tipset, og velkommen til SOS, Hyggelig med en annen Normann her.
Du kan sende meg en PM for nærmere bekjentskap, fint å kunne utveksle tips og ideer med en anne Normann.
Hilsen Knut, Stavanger.
 
.​
Don't be afraid to replace the blades in the planer. All you need (apart from allen spanners, of course) is, for example, a smooth metal strip (steel, brass) of standard dimensional accuracy, i.e. the kind commercially available for DIY. You could, of course, use a measuring gauge plate (with a dimensional accuracy of 1/100 or 1/1000 mm), but this is an unnecessary overkill.

The operation of setting the blades is simple but multi-step and can take some time. In the shortest terms, place the metal strip (your gauge) on the work table and manually rotate the cylinder with the blades to be set (REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE DEVICE FROM THE POWER). Adjust the protrusion of the two blades until they lightly catch on the surface of the metal strip along the entire length of the blades.

The principle is more or less the same, as can be seen in the above video by EspenT, the difference being he employed a wooden strip instead of metal one.
.​
 
.​

The above way of setting the blades, i.e. using a strip and dependent on the surface of the work table, will ensure that your output is uniformly thick and not wedge-shaped (crosswise).

If you are concerned about damaging the blades in contact with the metal strip, you can stick adhesive paper to the strip, but this is not actually necessary if done with normal gentleness.

.​
 
Thanks friends, even @Kevinik, has some problems with the knives on his DH40.
The knives that I showed on the pictures, I bought extra together with my machine many years ago, so they should fit the machine in any case.
Now in any case the machine has arrived in the house and I'm ready to try / fail.
I'll show pictures during the process.
Maybe I need to buy metal spacers from Proxxon with different thicknesses (mm), we'll see how it goes.
I thank you once again for your interest, tips, and encouragement.
First picture-
z (1).jpg
 
.​

Norway said:
Maybe I need to buy metal spacers from Proxxon with different thicknesses (mm)
Click to expand...

Any dedicated spacers are not needed at all, as the planner has a lowering/lifting work table. Anything straight and smooth will do. Even a longer allen key.

Whatever you decide and do, you should not assume perfect parallelism of the work table and cylinder (blade holder). I have returned to the seller, or corrected more than one Proxxon unit precisely because of the various, sometimes glaring alignment errors of key working parts of the machines by Proxxon. The worst cases in point were the lathe PD360 (corrected at the cost of an enormous effort) and the "precise" machine vice (simply returned to the seller).

In the case of the DH40 planer, I had to straighten out (by milling) the factory's very wavy surface of the work table. In addition to this, I covered this cast aluminium surface with a one-millimetre stainless steel plate, as the aluminium was notoriously tainting the wood. But this is already a very serious reworking of the machine, which I am not urging anyone to do.

.​
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top