Me too.
And I think Paul is correct, the waterway and maybe a strake of planking at the edge of the deck probably covers the leg of the lodging knees. My apologies.
Allan
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Restoration & Upgrading of the HMS BOREAS (1774) - scale 1:48
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- 1:48 boreas restoration upgrading
And I think Paul is correct, the waterway and maybe a strake of planking at the edge of the deck probably covers the leg of the lodging knees. My apologies.
Allan
Beautiful workmanship as always Olha! This is a clever use of rivets instead of paper or other soft materials or even paint to represent the lead scupper flanges. If they cannot be found to be close to scale, do you have an alternative method that you have used and liked? I found it interesting that a solid wood block with a hole bored through it was sometimes used in place of lead on the actual ships, according to Goodwin. I would think rot would have been a problem for this method though. Both Steel and The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 have quantity and dimensions of scuppers which varied with deck and ship size which I also found interesting and useful information for any modeler for this era.
Thanks
Allan
Thanks
Allan
Last edited:
Thank you Alan
It depends on the type of the ship.
On the example of another model of mine - they are square:
It depends on the type of the ship.
On the example of another model of mine - they are square:
Interesting and clever idea
Hello Ohla!
Instead of trying to dip those tiny assemblies into the blackening solution without getting the deadeye wet, use a Q-tip cotton swap soaked in the solution an brush it on. Much easier!
Instead of trying to dip those tiny assemblies into the blackening solution without getting the deadeye wet, use a Q-tip cotton swap soaked in the solution an brush it on. Much easier!
Installing the CHAIN PLATES
