RP Toolz Mitre Cutter - Worth it ?

Fish&Chip

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Hi, is the RP Toolz Mitre Cutter worth it ? The original set is from Poland seller and cost 107 $Euro (or 155 $CAD shipping included and EBay sell it at 161 $CAD plus shipping from australia. A lot of money for a small tool. But ist really better than the oll Chopper II from NWSL ?

Thanks to inform me.

Michel
 

mrshanks

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Hi Michel. In my humble opinion, I would say that tool is too expensive for its purpose. I would suggest you look at the following tools from Micro-Mark. Much simpler and less expensive... works just as good.



For myself, I use the Chop-it tool for quick stuff and would use a mitre cut on my miniature table saw for more advanced work.
 

Uwek

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This tool from RP Toolz is looking like a very high quality tool - seems to be completely out of metal.
When I check the other tools, this company is specialist on photo etched parts and also cutting plastic etc. - so very specialized in my opinion.
I am pretty sure - high quality - but you have to decide by yourself, if it is worth buying, for the things and jobs you want to do with it.
 

Fish&Chip

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Well, I also thinking to adapt a dremel tool to make a small table saw with miter.I needs right tool for Deck planking ans some angular small pièce cutting. Some peoples Said that Chop-it Do not made clean cutting on z direction (up-down).
 

mrshanks

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Chop-it Do not made clean cutting on z direction
Chop-It uses a single-edge razor blade for cutting. If the material is too thick or if you cut too fast, the blade can bend slightly and give a slanted z-cut. However, for typical planking, proper use, and a sharp blade the tool works perfectly. I have used mine for years on many models.
 

MM2CVS9

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I have used several different "chop" type cutters, including the RP. Of them all, the RP is by far better constructed. All aluminum, has some weight to it, the cutting arm has a great bearing surface so it does not wobble at all, Very nice mitre gauges and a stop. It uses a single edge razor blade, but without the "handle" on one edge like a standard blade. Has an inlaid cutting mat in the cutting area of the table.



Some of the others I had have a rather poor bearing for the cutting arm. One I had to replace the particle board base because the groove where the blade hit it got so big the cut parts splintered on the back.



All that being said, none of the "chop" type cutters cut with a perfectly strait cut end. They all leave a bit of a taper and require sanding to truly square the cut end up, although I think the RP does the best job for me.

I finally bought a mini chop saw or as some call them, a mini power mitre box. Proxxon makes a very nice one, but the price was out of my range. I got the one from harbor freight, with 2 packs of extra blades for about $50.00. It cuts great, with very square cuts. I made an extended base and a fence for it as most of my cuts are strips. Cuts up to 1/2" X 3/8" stock, hard and soft wood. With a cutoff disk it will cut metals as well.



EJ
 

Fish&Chip

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I have used several different "chop" type cutters, including the RP. Of them all, the RP is by far better constructed. All aluminum, has some weight to it, the cutting arm has a great bearing surface so it does not wobble at all, Very nice mitre gauges and a stop. It uses a single edge razor blade, but without the "handle" on one edge like a standard blade. Has an inlaid cutting mat in the cutting area of the table.



Some of the others I had have a rather poor bearing for the cutting arm. One I had to replace the particle board base because the groove where the blade hit it got so big the cut parts splintered on the back.



All that being said, none of the "chop" type cutters cut with a perfectly strait cut end. They all leave a bit of a taper and require sanding to truly square the cut end up, although I think the RP does the best job for me.

I finally bought a mini chop saw or as some call them, a mini power mitre box. Proxxon makes a very nice one, but the price was out of my range. I got the one from harbor freight, with 2 packs of extra blades for about $50.00. It cuts great, with very square cuts. I made an extended base and a fence for it as most of my cuts are strips. Cuts up to 1/2" X 3/8" stock, hard and soft wood. With a cutoff disk it will cut metals as well.



EJ
Wow. I like your shop saw with home made table. Thanks all of you for your inputs
 

Uwek

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I have used several different "chop" type cutters, including the RP. Of them all, the RP is by far better constructed. All aluminum, has some weight to it, the cutting arm has a great bearing surface so it does not wobble at all, Very nice mitre gauges and a stop. It uses a single edge razor blade, but without the "handle" on one edge like a standard blade. Has an inlaid cutting mat in the cutting area of the table.



Some of the others I had have a rather poor bearing for the cutting arm. One I had to replace the particle board base because the groove where the blade hit it got so big the cut parts splintered on the back.



All that being said, none of the "chop" type cutters cut with a perfectly strait cut end. They all leave a bit of a taper and require sanding to truly square the cut end up, although I think the RP does the best job for me.

I finally bought a mini chop saw or as some call them, a mini power mitre box. Proxxon makes a very nice one, but the price was out of my range. I got the one from harbor freight, with 2 packs of extra blades for about $50.00. It cuts great, with very square cuts. I made an extended base and a fence for it as most of my cuts are strips. Cuts up to 1/2" X 3/8" stock, hard and soft wood. With a cutoff disk it will cut metals as well.



EJ
Very good comparison - Thanks for sharing this with us - I guess this is helping a lot to make decisions :cool:
 

Olivers Historic Shipyard

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Hi,

i bought this tool for my first project. In my workshop this is the most useless tool i have.
First, all parts arte plastic. If you need repeat a lot of cuts for planks or whatever the screws for the adjustment opens allone because the
mechanical forces. The ruler is vague, the adjustment poorly managed.
But the most bad thing is that a cut with a knife, or with any blade create a champfer on the cutting line. You have to clean the cuttingline with the tablesander.
With this, a tool like this is abolutly worthless.
Sometimes its good to get a more striking parting line. But in geral, a plank has to be cut with a saw to get a clean straight cut.
Thats only my experience and my opinion.... A good tablesaw with a good blade is a better investment.

1581487068538.png
 

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danielsje

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Here is another thought...sometimes the gathering of the tools of the trade, model shipbuilding, is a hobby in itself. So practical function is less the end goal than collecting fine tools...just for the pleasure of collecting fine tools. From that perspective we gather in the variety of tools as our wallets and the Admirals in our lives allow. Yes, we want functional tools and not junk...but in the end the pleasure derived from using a fine tool even for minor projects is very satisfying, indeed.
 

Dcox1961

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I have used several different "chop" type cutters, including the RP. Of them all, the RP is by far better constructed. All aluminum, has some weight to it, the cutting arm has a great bearing surface so it does not wobble at all, Very nice mitre gauges and a stop. It uses a single edge razor blade, but without the "handle" on one edge like a standard blade. Has an inlaid cutting mat in the cutting area of the table.



Some of the others I had have a rather poor bearing for the cutting arm. One I had to replace the particle board base because the groove where the blade hit it got so big the cut parts splintered on the back.



All that being said, none of the "chop" type cutters cut with a perfectly strait cut end. They all leave a bit of a taper and require sanding to truly square the cut end up, although I think the RP does the best job for me.

I finally bought a mini chop saw or as some call them, a mini power mitre box. Proxxon makes a very nice one, but the price was out of my range. I got the one from harbor freight, with 2 packs of extra blades for about $50.00. It cuts great, with very square cuts. I made an extended base and a fence for it as most of my cuts are strips. Cuts up to 1/2" X 3/8" stock, hard and soft wood. With a cutoff disk it will cut metals as well.



EJ
I've been thinking about the cut off saw. My question with this one is can you see the cut line fairly easy or do you just set it to the grove cut into the base?
 

donfarr

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MY PROBLEM WITH THIS ONE IS ACCORDING TO THE INFORMATION IT CAN ONLY CUT UP 2mm, and I am working on much thicker materials probally need a mini-power miter saw. Don
 

mrshanks

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I am working on much thicker materials probally need a mini-power miter saw.
Don - I know you love tools. For the amount of modeling you do and the precision you desire, you need to invest in this.. no combination of dremel attachments and other gizmos are going to achieve the results of this tool. I am surprised you don't already own one. Go with the pro's bro!!

 

MM2CVS9

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The Harbor Freight saw will easily cut 1/2" X 3/4 " wood stock, and yes, the line of sight for the blade to cut is clearly seen. I really like mine for the price.
I don't need a mini table saw, as I have full size table saws from 8" to 10" with very thin blades, a planer, Band saw, etc. in my workshop and have made cutting jigs for cutting very thin strips of any kind of wood I want. This just makes it convenient for me to cut the stuff to length at the model bench.

EJ
 

Larsa

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Hi,

i bought this tool for my first project. In my workshop this is the most useless tool i have.
First, all parts arte plastic. If you need repeat a lot of cuts for planks or whatever the screws for the adjustment opens allone because the
mechanical forces. The ruler is vague, the adjustment poorly managed.
But the most bad thing is that a cut with a knife, or with any blade create a champfer on the cutting line. You have to clean the cuttingline with the tablesander.
With this, a tool like this is abolutly worthless.
Sometimes its good to get a more striking parting line. But in geral, a plank has to be cut with a saw to get a clean straight cut.
Thats only my experience and my opinion.... A good tablesaw with a good blade is a better investment.

View attachment 132892
Agree,no good
 

donfarr

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yes Mike, I would love to get the BYRNES table saw, thickness sander, etc, as i live on a fixed budget i just can not afford the price these are GREAT TOOLS wish i could afford them, but can not, i have 2 scroll saws(QUITE OLD BUT WORKS FINE) and a band saw that is my work horse can cut curves and strips also great fence and miter gauge, so all i can do is dream. THANKS AGAIN Don
 
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