Hallo Alexander Great progress and many thanks for showing us these details
"bombproof" - Congratulations for this important step
"bombproof" - Congratulations for this important step
Saint Albans 1687 in Navy Board Style - 1 : 48 scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
Hello Alexander! Excellent work progress. Many thanks for the constant updates. I come across unusual hinges structure on your ruder (never seen this type before). I can see the pintles attached to a sterpost, but i am not seeing how gudgeons attached. It would be great if you can confirm such attachment. (see red circles)
Many thanks!!
Many thanks!!
Thanks for your replies and the likes!
Hi Jim,
This fastening of the hinges was shown at the original model of the Trinity House:
The brass sheet goes around the back of the rudder and ends, where normaly they had to carry the gudgeons.
I do not know why the original model maker chose this obviously wrong solution. But Robert Spence has also attached his ruddder in his copy in this way. And that's why I want to do it alike.
It looks like the connection was made by pieces of wire, which rests in the wood of the rudder on the one hand and in an eyelet on the stern post, which was formed by bending the brass sheet. I cannot bend the brass so accurately. So I solderd a piece of brass pipe to the brass sheet instead.
That's the way I want to do it. I will make the final attachment of the rudder later, otherwise it could easily be torn off.
Early Navy-Board models show often primitive forms of fastenigs of the rudder. This is mentioned by John Franklin in his book "Navy Board Ship Models" (see page 42). Maybe soldering was unknown?
Here ist an example at an model of a Royal yacht in the NMM:
Cheers, Alexander
PS: Sorry, but I don't know, how to turn pictures upright.
Hi Jim,
This fastening of the hinges was shown at the original model of the Trinity House:
The brass sheet goes around the back of the rudder and ends, where normaly they had to carry the gudgeons.
I do not know why the original model maker chose this obviously wrong solution. But Robert Spence has also attached his ruddder in his copy in this way. And that's why I want to do it alike.
It looks like the connection was made by pieces of wire, which rests in the wood of the rudder on the one hand and in an eyelet on the stern post, which was formed by bending the brass sheet. I cannot bend the brass so accurately. So I solderd a piece of brass pipe to the brass sheet instead.
That's the way I want to do it. I will make the final attachment of the rudder later, otherwise it could easily be torn off.
Early Navy-Board models show often primitive forms of fastenigs of the rudder. This is mentioned by John Franklin in his book "Navy Board Ship Models" (see page 42). Maybe soldering was unknown?
Here ist an example at an model of a Royal yacht in the NMM:
Cheers, Alexander
PS: Sorry, but I don't know, how to turn pictures upright.
Attachments
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Thank you Aleksander!! The above picture (the first one), in rotated view, clarified the rudder attachment. Thank you!
Enjoy!
Actually take a look few tutorial videos we have: how to rotate images (before posting)
Enjoy!
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Hi Alexander
Nice to see your very well built model of St. Albans
kindly regards
Willi (schifferlbauer)
Nice to see your very well built model of St. Albans
kindly regards
Willi (schifferlbauer)
Thank you, Willi
Actually, I originally wanted to build a smaller model. A yacht or something similar.
But since you have provided me with these wonderful plans of Saint Albans, it is now becoming a 50-cannon ship.
Greetings to Vienna
Alexander
The next step is the installation of the keelson and one broad stringer on each side. The stringers are flush with the top of the floortimbers. This results in beautiful ascending lines, which will be clearly visible on the finished model, because the open framing of the model.
Further longitudinal connections are then the clamps. I hope that the hull has enough stability with this components. To strengthen the whole construction I reinforced all connections with 0.9 mm Treenails made of bamboo. These were about 450 pieces, but later invisible at the planked model.
Fortunately, the half frame with the lower part of the transom mirror fits quite well into the lines. That was something I was worried about.
Now the construction is already stable enough to free it from the jig. Here are some pictures of the framework. Since the rear end is still missing, there are still quite good insights. The hull weighs just 1.2 kg and is very solid. It's fun to hold the part in your hand.
And as a fruit bowl, it could already be taken well now.
Here some more pictures:
Cheers, Alexander
Further longitudinal connections are then the clamps. I hope that the hull has enough stability with this components. To strengthen the whole construction I reinforced all connections with 0.9 mm Treenails made of bamboo. These were about 450 pieces, but later invisible at the planked model.
Fortunately, the half frame with the lower part of the transom mirror fits quite well into the lines. That was something I was worried about.
Now the construction is already stable enough to free it from the jig. Here are some pictures of the framework. Since the rear end is still missing, there are still quite good insights. The hull weighs just 1.2 kg and is very solid. It's fun to hold the part in your hand.
And as a fruit bowl, it could already be taken well now.
Here some more pictures:
Cheers, Alexander
Great work Alexanader.Whilst I would imagine the frame as it stands is quite sturdy,I would be cautious of inducing a twist during planking due to the open nature of the framing.Is your lower deck going to be fully planked?I ask as this would introduce some torsional stiffness as I assume you will not be planking the floor inside the frames.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hi Nigel,
thanks
Thanks for your advice, too.
I do not know yet how to proceed. I will probably fill the interspaces of the frames in the covered area in order to be able to cut out the gunports. Then I will pre-bend the wales before installing and attach the model again in the jig during their installation.
The decks equiped with their structurs will give additional stability.
But I will not attach the inner planking and knees.
Cheers, Alexander
thanks
Thanks for your advice, too.
I do not know yet how to proceed. I will probably fill the interspaces of the frames in the covered area in order to be able to cut out the gunports. Then I will pre-bend the wales before installing and attach the model again in the jig during their installation.
The decks equiped with their structurs will give additional stability.
But I will not attach the inner planking and knees.
Cheers, Alexander
I am in love with those POF builds. Really great job, Aleksander! One day, I may start my own POF build... but who knows when?
Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History
8 December 1693 - HMS St. Albans (1687 - 50) wrecked off Kinsale.
HMS St Albans was a 50-gun fourth rate ship of the line of the English Royal Navy, launched at Deptford Dockyard in 1687. The ship fought in the Battle of Placentia (1692).
Read more:
8 December 1693 - HMS St. Albans (1687 - 50) wrecked off Kinsale.
HMS St Albans was a 50-gun fourth rate ship of the line of the English Royal Navy, launched at Deptford Dockyard in 1687. The ship fought in the Battle of Placentia (1692).
Read more:
Naval/Maritime History - 27th of August - Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History
Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History 8 December 1693 - HMS St. Albans (1687 - 50) wrecked off Kinsale. HMS St Albans was a 50-gun fourth rate ship of the line of the English Royal Navy, launched at Deptford Dockyard in 1687. The ship fought in the Battle of...
shipsofscale.com
The spaces between the frames were filled in the areas where gunports are located.
The framings of the lower batterie were carefully measured and provided with the upper and lower cills.
At the rear of the model you can see a support I added to fix later the position of the sterntimbers.
A plank between the two gun decks will later be left out to allow an insight there. Filling pieces were therefore omitted in this area.
The counter is painted according to the plan. These are not any initials or a coat of arms. At least I couldn't see anything useful. Perhaps it is an ornament based on a decorative anchor plate. Such decorative anchor plates are often found on medieval castles or buildings.
This painting has disappeared from the original model. It was probably simply painted over during a restoration.
I made the counter of a 1mm plywood, which I have previously brought into the required bend using boiling water. Unfortunately, the bend has largely decreased again after the painting. Let's see if I can still attach the plywood. Otherwise I have to think of something else.
Cheers, Alexander
The framings of the lower batterie were carefully measured and provided with the upper and lower cills.
At the rear of the model you can see a support I added to fix later the position of the sterntimbers.
A plank between the two gun decks will later be left out to allow an insight there. Filling pieces were therefore omitted in this area.
The counter is painted according to the plan. These are not any initials or a coat of arms. At least I couldn't see anything useful. Perhaps it is an ornament based on a decorative anchor plate. Such decorative anchor plates are often found on medieval castles or buildings.
This painting has disappeared from the original model. It was probably simply painted over during a restoration.
I made the counter of a 1mm plywood, which I have previously brought into the required bend using boiling water. Unfortunately, the bend has largely decreased again after the painting. Let's see if I can still attach the plywood. Otherwise I have to think of something else.
Cheers, Alexander
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I installed the gunport-frames of the upper deck and painted it with artist oil paints. The color is a mixture of vermilion and English red. The gunport- frames were primed with gesso. This is a primer for painting purposes
The visible parts of the frames (up to the waterline) were finally sanded and sealed with CLOU-Schnellschleifgrund. So this area is finished now.
The first three wales are already fixed. They will be later painted matt black.
Last a picture of the rasps and files I use.
Cheers Alexander
The visible parts of the frames (up to the waterline) were finally sanded and sealed with CLOU-Schnellschleifgrund. So this area is finished now.
The first three wales are already fixed. They will be later painted matt black.
Last a picture of the rasps and files I use.
Cheers Alexander
Attachments
Last edited:
It was not possible to install the painted counter. So I first instlled the unpainted but bent plywood at the model and then I painted it direct at the model.
I also selected the plank thickness a little thicker - 2,3 mm. The planking was quite easy to do without any noteworthy problems.
The matt black painting has already been applied. I hope I won't scratch or damage them as construction progresses.
I really like the missing plank between the first and second gundeck. I have always liked this gap with Navy Board models and when I go inside me, this it was the strong motivation to choose to build this model. In this gap you can no longer see any of the entire filler frames - it should be like this!
For the railing supports in the rear area of the ship and for the typical English bollards on the foredeck, I have already sawed suitable incisions in the frames.
Regards, Alexander
I also selected the plank thickness a little thicker - 2,3 mm. The planking was quite easy to do without any noteworthy problems.
The matt black painting has already been applied. I hope I won't scratch or damage them as construction progresses.
I really like the missing plank between the first and second gundeck. I have always liked this gap with Navy Board models and when I go inside me, this it was the strong motivation to choose to build this model. In this gap you can no longer see any of the entire filler frames - it should be like this!
For the railing supports in the rear area of the ship and for the typical English bollards on the foredeck, I have already sawed suitable incisions in the frames.
Regards, Alexander
Boah, Stark Du hast ja heimlich ganz schön weitergebaut. Sieht spitze aus.
Du hast ja heimlich ganz schön weitergebaut. Sieht spitze aus.
Thanks, Oliver
Your built of La Belle is always a strong inspiration for me
See you in Augsburg 14th of March.
Cheers Alexander
Your built of La Belle is always a strong inspiration for me
See you in Augsburg 14th of March.
Cheers Alexander
with your skill you doesn´t need any inspiration 
Das ist fantastisch, Aleksandr!!
Hallo Alexander,
great progress - and it is also looking GREAT
I am happy to see you both (Alexander and Oliver) next weekend in Augsburg - and I hope to see your beautiful models also
great progress - and it is also looking GREAT
I am happy to see you both (Alexander and Oliver) next weekend in Augsburg - and I hope to see your beautiful models also
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Hi Alexander
Great work. I remember the time when we talk about the model and I was send you the two negatives of the St. Albans Plan. I never thought
that you realize in such a short time this project and make this wonderful model. Congratulation it looks really very very well.
best regards
Willi (schifferlbauer)
Great work. I remember the time when we talk about the model and I was send you the two negatives of the St. Albans Plan. I never thought
that you realize in such a short time this project and make this wonderful model. Congratulation it looks really very very well.
best regards
Willi (schifferlbauer)