I would start with 120 grit, then go for 240 as a finishing sand.
Like Bryian said, You sand in at least three passes, starting with a coarse grit and moving finer. There are several types of abrasive used in sand paper, ceramic alumina, flint, garnet, silicon carbide and aluminium oxide. Here is a guide as to what to select: SANDPAPERS
Usually, you use garnet paper for wood, and it is less expensive that other types. It gets loaded up with sawdust easily when using finer grits, but like I said, it's cheap, so you just grab another sheet. Flint paper is even cheaper, but doesn't work as well. Aluminum oxide doesn't load up as fast, and is used for rough shaping in coarse grits on wood. As for polishing wood on the final pass, don't use steel wool, because slivers of steel embed in the wood and then rust, staining your model.
Best advice is to see what's available at the store and compare prices, test some grits, and see how they work. It's REALLY important to remove all cross-grain scratches with the coarser grit before moving to finer grit, and unless your are trying to remove a lot of material when shaping, always sand in the same direction as the grain. #1 RULE: TIME SPENT FINE SANDING IS THE KEY to making a beautiful finish using your oils or stains when the wood is not painted. Do not rush.
Usually, you use garnet paper for wood, and it is less expensive that other types. It gets loaded up with sawdust easily when using finer grits, but like I said, it's cheap, so you just grab another sheet. Flint paper is even cheaper, but doesn't work as well. Aluminum oxide doesn't load up as fast, and is used for rough shaping in coarse grits on wood. As for polishing wood on the final pass, don't use steel wool, because slivers of steel embed in the wood and then rust, staining your model.
Best advice is to see what's available at the store and compare prices, test some grits, and see how they work. It's REALLY important to remove all cross-grain scratches with the coarser grit before moving to finer grit, and unless your are trying to remove a lot of material when shaping, always sand in the same direction as the grain. #1 RULE: TIME SPENT FINE SANDING IS THE KEY to making a beautiful finish using your oils or stains when the wood is not painted. Do not rush.
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Hi Jfwdc, sanding is done before staining the surfaces, after stained a very fine grit is passed to remove some lumps of paint. This is my system of working, I wonder, does it have any use after coloring sanding?Frank
Hi,
the grits 120 and 240 are in my opinion to sand down the wood and/or putty and not primer or color.
After priming or coloring the ships I think it makes no sense to use that coarse grits. Even if you have big brushstroaks I would use a grid not below 1000 for sanding the color.
My feelings: I use 120 grit if my wood is very rough or just after planking to even out the boards. I then go to 220 or 240 (depending on what I have) as a finish sand and then paint or stain. I feel any finer is good for furniture finishing, a waste of time and effort on a model.
Just as important, maybe more so, is how you sand. Use a flat board so the sand paper doesn’t follow your “soft” fingers. I have cut many different sizes and shapes of wooden backing boards to keep the mating surfaces flat and even. A sponge type backing board is ok on curved surfaces, but not too soft! Steel wool is for cleaning metal, generally not wood.
Just as important, maybe more so, is how you sand. Use a flat board so the sand paper doesn’t follow your “soft” fingers. I have cut many different sizes and shapes of wooden backing boards to keep the mating surfaces flat and even. A sponge type backing board is ok on curved surfaces, but not too soft! Steel wool is for cleaning metal, generally not wood.
Maybee it's an old habit from my plastic modelling times. There I used 800 - 1500 for the primer and color layers and 3000 for the last finish. For high gloss I used up to 8000 before polishing.
So maybe I'm wrong with 240 is to coarse for the painting in wood modelling.
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In general, for woodworking, I'd advise against the use of steel wool. If there's ever any exposure to moisture, including ambient humidity, you risk rust stains on the surface of your finished product. You can achieve the same results as burnishing with steel wool through the use of extremely fine grade sanding papers (800 and higher.). But if steel wool has worked for you in the past, then stick with what you're comfortable with. I'm merely playing devil's advocate when I suggest avoiding it's use.
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For my shaping work, I'll start with coarse grade grit... sometimes as low as 120, depending upon what I'm needing to remove... and I'll use that with a sanding profile block to ensure I get an even removal without dips and valleys. Then I'll begin using finer and finer grades, sanding with the grain to smooth out the finish. For the latter, I buy multi-packs of multi-grade foam sanding blocks via Amazon. I've found them to be really good for that purpose (final finishing), and when loaded with sawdust, can actually be washed clean under running water, and when dry... reused a second (or more) time.
If the kit is double plank on frame (two layers), I don't do fine sanding on the first planking layer. I just sand it to get the profile smoothed out properly. Then after I've applied the thinner second layer of planking, I just need to use finer grades to give it a smooth finish ready for staining or painting. The challenge of course being that the second planking layer can be very thin, so there's no ability to be aggressive with the sanding since you could wear though the layer and expose the underlying first planking layer.
If the kit is double plank on frame (two layers), I don't do fine sanding on the first planking layer. I just sand it to get the profile smoothed out properly. Then after I've applied the thinner second layer of planking, I just need to use finer grades to give it a smooth finish ready for staining or painting. The challenge of course being that the second planking layer can be very thin, so there's no ability to be aggressive with the sanding since you could wear though the layer and expose the underlying first planking layer.
I should have explained - steel wool is good for awkward or rounded parts (masts, spars etc) because it does not knock off the edges or go too heavy in one particular place. Obviously no good for flatting. I have never had a problem with rust. Regards.
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Sanding is dependant on level of outcome desired...
Primed soft wood is still soft, you should shoot for knocking down the raised grain only prior to your top coat. Fine, open coat garnet paper is least expensive and works wonderfully. 180 followed by 220 will be sufficient- you're not trying to achieve a high gloss finish coat. And remember to use a block as a backer. Using your fingers will result in unequal pressure being applied.
Another avenue you can try are cheap Emory boards & better quality foam backed Emory boards and they are available in multiple grits...
Happy sanding!
Primed soft wood is still soft, you should shoot for knocking down the raised grain only prior to your top coat. Fine, open coat garnet paper is least expensive and works wonderfully. 180 followed by 220 will be sufficient- you're not trying to achieve a high gloss finish coat. And remember to use a block as a backer. Using your fingers will result in unequal pressure being applied.
Another avenue you can try are cheap Emory boards & better quality foam backed Emory boards and they are available in multiple grits...
Happy sanding!
I have a variety of sandpaper squares of all grits from 80 to 300 or so. Lets me grab what I think will work…
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Yep!
I have 40 to 18,000 - covers most anything project wise....
I have 40 to 18,000 - covers most anything project wise....
18,000?! You can almost polish mirrors with that…
do you mean 1800? I think the finest sandpaper I see is 7000
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
As others have said, I often use cheap nail file boards, from thin medium grit to wide foam backed very fine used to polish gloss nails.
If it works for the Admiral on her nails, why not on your paint.
If it works for the Admiral on her nails, why not on your paint.
Hi, this is not sanpaper, but it is available up to 12.000 grid... Micromesh
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Start with grit 220 and adjust as necessary.