scroll saw?

I mentioned to Donnie yesterday to use spiral blades on his scroll saw ,you are able to cut any direction and you do not need turn all the time the wood,I think its much cheaper this way
Yes - but they have also (in my opinion) some effects, which you should keep in mind, when you use the spiral blades:
1) they cut a wider gap
2) they get faster dull, when you use them mainly in one direction
3) and the scroll saw by itself is not prepared so well to take over the forces from the side, so when I use them cutting thicker material, the cut is not vertical any more - the saw blade is making a curve
=> for cutting frame elements I use therefore normal blades in my scroll saw
=> I think most important is every time, that the blade is doing the work without any pressure
Sorry for getting off topic now
 
I find my small bandsaw more accurate than my cheap scroll saw.Fundamentally the design of the scroll saw is floored in that you have two arms moving up and down in an arc meaning the blade is continually moving back and forth as well as up and down.The bigger the arms the smaller this arc which gives you more control.Regardless of other features,the bigger the throat,the better for a scroll saw.This means largest arc,smallest movement,greatest control

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
I have 2 scroll saws 9A DREMELL MOTO-SAW, AND A 30 YEAR OLD DREMEL SCROLL SAW A ALL METAL ONE VERY HEAVY) AND ONE BAND SAW, A FAIRLY CHEAP PERFORMAX 9 inch TABLE TOP, WITCH I USE THE MOST, I USE IT FOR FRAMES AND FOR CUTTING STRIPS WITH A FENCE AND MITER GAGE IT WORKS WELL, MY ONLY PROBLEM AND IT IS A BIG ONE IS THE BLADE FLUTTERS HAVE TRIED THE TENSIONING KNOB ALL THE WAY STILL FLUTTERS, WHEN I FIRST GOT IT I COULD RE-SAW WITH IT NOT NOW< SO FOR THE TIME BEING WILL LIVE WITH IT. Don
 
Hi Moxis. Do believe that is cutting/slicing lumber along its grain parallel to the face reducing it thickness. A bandsaw because of its throat, you can stand a 12 inch wide board on its side/edge and cut it down the middle to make veneers, 12 inches wide and very thin. You can get blades up to a 1 inch to fit a standard band saw for making veneers. Usually when you buy a band saw it is given a number of the throat such as mine which is ten inches and they go up from there. Most of the time folks who like cutting veneers purchase 14 to 17 inch band saw and some times even bigger. Gary
 
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I really appreciate all the responses, but all I need this for is to cut the 6 frames (multiple pieces) for the Echo cross section model. I don't think a bandsaw would manage the small thin fine wood to make those curves. I'm all about the best tool, hence my Byrnes saw and sander, however this is essential a one time use and I don't want to clutter a lot of garage or workshop table top space. I did get a lot of good information, I think there are some moderately priced and moderately sized models I've found like the WEN 3921that should meet my needs.

Thanks everyone.
 
I really appreciate all the responses, but all I need this for is to cut the 6 frames (multiple pieces) for the Echo cross section model. I don't think a bandsaw would manage the small thin fine wood to make those curves. I'm all about the best tool, hence my Byrnes saw and sander, however this is essential a one time use and I don't want to clutter a lot of garage or workshop table top space. I did get a lot of good information, I think there are some moderately priced and moderately sized models I've found like the WEN 3921that should meet my needs.

Thanks everyone.
Or you can use just a hand jeweler saw, very easy to cut with it.
 
Glenn,
The only images that I have from many years ago from the old gallery are the Granado, Fair American, and Pegasus of which can be seen here:

these I do not have and unfortunately, do not even remember or vaguely remember: (that has been a long time ago)
BlueNose
AVS, Armed Virginia Sloop
Baltimore
HM Pickle
HMS Vanguard


I would be more than happy to enter those, but I do not have the images. I did a complete scan of my images HDD and it did not turn up anything on the ones mentioned. I don't think that I received any correspondence from you on the others (THE RED LIST).
The only other option is that perhaps some of those are stuck in some old emails that I received from you. If you still have an active "sent box" maybe you can check to see if you did in fact email me those images (THE RED LIST).
 
I agree with Zoltan. If you only need to make 6 frames, it would go much faster with a manual jeweler's saw than buy a new "toy", learn to use it, and perhaps find out that the machine is not producing quality you want. And afterwards reserves a comprehensive space on your work table.
 
Glenn,
The only images that I have from many years ago from the old gallery are the Granado, Fair American, and Pegasus of which can be seen here:

these I do not have and unfortunately, do not even remember or vaguely remember: (that has been a long time ago)
BlueNose
AVS, Armed Virginia Sloop
Baltimore
HM Pickle
HMS Vanguard


I would be more than happy to enter those, but I do not have the images. I did a complete scan of my images HDD and it did not turn up anything on the ones mentioned. I don't think that I received any correspondence from you on the others (THE RED LIST).
The only other option is that perhaps some of those are stuck in some old emails that I received from you. If you still have an active "sent box" maybe you can check to see if you did in fact email me those images (THE RED LIST).

Hi Donny, It was only the three you have listed. I've added the links you provided for Pegasus (my perfect and historically accurate build:), Fair American and Granado to my signature block. Thanks for the help.
 
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